Software
Houzz Logo Print
mary_parsons3820

days to maturity???

9 years ago

Another opportunity to display my ignorance of cole crops (and lettuce).

Because I was a bit late, I planted transplants. (Have been told "sets" is the proper term. Am still learning my way around.) Each six pack came with information containing, among other things, "days to maturity". Now I visited several seed company websites and found that, for a number of specific varieties, the "days to maturity" using seeds is the same info as what came with my transplants. If true, is there some rule of thumb to use in determining days to maturity for transplants?

Now the kale, collards and mustard were planted only thirty-two days ago and look ready to pick. Should I just go for it or let them grow some more?

Comments (11)

  • 9 years ago

    I just keep pinching off the outer leaves. They will keep growing from the inside and keep producing. DTM with greens is really subjective..some people like the tender new shoots at about 3-4 inches...so I guess in a couple of weeks they're mature?

    ynot thanked Donna R
  • 9 years ago

    Yes, the word "maturity" doesn't really apply to greens. "Maturity" means, "I'm all done growing!", but that's not the case for plants where the "fruit" is the leaves.

    ynot thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
  • 9 years ago

    As we often discuss here whenever this question comes up, DTM is basically a useless bit of information to be ignored completely for all practical purposes. It may have a smidge more applicability to a few crops - leafy greens isn't one of them as others have said - but even then the info can freely be ignored.

    Dave

    ynot thanked digdirt2
  • 9 years ago

    Over the years I thought about this - occasionally. Then this came to me. Under the same conditions a short date will probably mature faster than a long date. So, if instead of looking at the absolute numbers one considers the relative numbers then the DTMs might be meaningful.


    But someone up-thread must have already explained that.


    ynot thanked albert_135   39.17°N 119.76°W 4695ft.
  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes, Albert, that was my point. If you want to get to harvest fast, get a plant that has a smaller DTM. That is, a longer DTM plant planted next to a shorter DTM plant wlll probably take longer to produce. But if you want tomatoes on July 15, and you have a plant with a DTM of 90 days, planting on April 15 may or may not do it for you.

    Given variability of weather, climate, and planting dates, as well as soil nutrients, you decide when to harvest by looking at the stuff and seeing if it is ready to harvest. Not by when the calendar and the DTM tells you it is ready to harvest.

    So calendar-wise, DTM is indeed a pretty useless bit of information.

    ynot thanked daninthedirt (USDA 9a, HZ9, CentTX, Sunset z30, Cfa)
  • 9 years ago

    I agree with everything everyone stated above, but I do admit, that I still add it to my planting calendar for my root crops and corn, just so I know when to start checking.

    ynot thanked planterjeff
  • 9 years ago

    I'm w/plantetjeff. Dates are not written in blood but they do make a good reference. I'd rather have the data than not.

    ynot thanked bossyvossy
  • 9 years ago

    I guess if you haven't gardened before, DTM can give you a clue about timescales. That is, it'll sorta take half the time to get to harvestable radishes than it will take to get to harvestable cherry tomatoes.

  • 9 years ago

    Learn to read the plants rather than the calendar. Plants are constantly sending out signals to the gardener as to what they need, what you need to be checking, and when they are ready to be harvested. And their signals are much more accurate than any calendar crutch. If we don't learn to read those signals or choose to ignore them then the DTM on the calendar makes no difference.

    Dave

    ynot thanked digdirt2
  • 9 years ago

    On the other hand, DTM is useful when deciding on a new plant. There may not be much difference timewise between a 60 day vs a 68 day cultivar, but a lot of difference between it and a 90 day cultivar. I can grow 140 day cultivar but there are lots of areas that cant. I have to be very careful with brassicas like cauliflower, because my cool periods are not long enough for the long season varieties.

    ynot thanked farmerdill