Apparently your chain tension is to tight or oil delivery to bar is not adequate . Chain and bar overheating is what will cause chain to bind on the bar . Normal chain wear will cause a loose tension condition , not tight . What bar tip are you running solid tip or roller nose ?

Thanks for the reply!

1. I have increased, observed for good oil flow which shows on the 16” bar.

2. I lift the chain 1/16”-1/8” to check tension with no slack showing at the bottom.

3. Oil tank’s capacity topped if needed, and wet signs per use.

4. I have laser solid tip bar vs sprocket. Versatile with chains and last longer.

5. This is a first. I wondered if “Hard Dry Red Oak vs Green “is playing a part??

6. Good chips flying from touch-up, which throws me more vs a cutting matter.

7. I admit it’s an Electric Wimp used by a 70+ Wimp with a tired arm, that has worked Gas Years!!

8. Don’t tell my Wife the saw is a Wimp. I’ll have to get my Poulan S25 out that wore me out. Please, "Do Not Roll On The Floor", LOL!

   

Cannot see via your photo if your bar is solid tip or roller tip . Do you realize the differences ? Solid tip bars have a 1/4 " deflection measured @ the mid point of the bar , Roller or sprocket nose bars can have tighter tension 3/32 " . This tension is measured by attempting to lift the saw by the chain . Deflection should not allow chain raker root to be exposed from the bar guide groove . Like I said proper tension will increase saw and chain performance . Any chain which heats up is either over tight or lacking proper oil delivery . I have seen incidents of dirt and debris cause overheating but that is a severe and remote cause eg:using your saw as a rototiller lol. However wood density or hardness oak vs cedar will not overheat or cause chain tightness or looseness , only increase perhaps the cutting rate depending on state of sharpness of the chain . I believe you tension had been a little too tight or oiler set too low . You should consume over half a tank of oil per tank of fuel as a rule .

Good Info!

1. “I have a laser solid tip bar vs a sprocket. Versatile with chains and seem
to last longer.” I’ll try and find a pic of the tip of the bar.

2. Please notice, this was a 12 electric saw , with a Self Sharpening (Chisel tooth type chain). I added the 16” bar with the solid laser tip and Barracuda Chain.

3. This is a very powerful aggressive saw for my little use of cutting pre-cut curbed wood to my need.

4. I reamed my oil port a fraction larger to allow extra oil cutting various grades of wood…

Yep have installed and owned a few laser bars and sharpened numerous Barracuda chains . I currently use Carlsialle bar and chains sets with semi skip tooth design due to hard rock maple and Ironwood that I cut . I would recommend and only use winter grade bar oils which lube and provide much better flushing action . Ensure 5/16" tension with the laser tip Bro !

Half Logs!

Since I have burned my 1.5 cord planned to burn this winter I feel I’ll adjust to burning Half Logs 12 hrs vs 24 hrs. Holding coals over night has been a waste of my best logs and fires. I’ll try ½ logs to hold and give me an instant fire. I only look for coals to
start the next fire vs holding heat over night. I use half logs to hold coals during the day after the weather warms up. The half logs are good self feeding fires with all falling in the fire. We’ll Call It Idling! Full logs only go in to assist the central heat when it is below 40 – 50 to assist to 70…

Half logs are healthy sizes that I cut in batches as needed from full logs that will not stack alone safely once cut. That is what I am burning now or no burning with 40s to 60 warm up. I have a few questions/comments if I can get back on the site.

*I am planning to purchase a backup mid priced/quality 14” Electric saw to re-cut wood at home into 12-8” blocks from storage to fire. All 14” Plastic appears about the same grade from use and repairing.

*I h/n seen any wood stored outside w/o showing seasoning cracks and darker color in TX Heat “Soon”.

*Replying has been a challenge recently causing this Mod Note. Have you experienced any? Take Care! Hopefully this is not the end of sharing…

*Support is suggesting a Browser issue that’s been maintained with no issues vs a New Format I See.

I split some 12-14” Live Oak Logs at least 3-4 weeks ago
that had plenty weight and no cracks. I stacked it into storage racks this week
and it was noticeable lighter with seasoning cracks. I have no idea how long this wood had been
down but I do know it was “Heavy With No Cracks”! I had a Live Oak Trimmed just before the freezing
cold (2 months ago). My contract was for
them to put the limbs on the ground and I took them from there.

I saved all limbs trimmed above 2” to reduce my 4 loads to
recycling Free with proof as a resident.
Since it was above what I could put on the curb monthly. I did not notice any moisture in the trimmed
wood. 2-4 weeks later I sampled burning
the small wood (a pain to store). I d/n
see or hear any sizzling from sap and added most 3" and below to hot seasoned wood fires.

Good to hear you have stocked up some further firewood Bud ! - 25 C here today and sunny . How did you make out with chainsaw chain issue ?

My 14” electric Wen and McCullough are doing their Jobs well. Knowing they are Plastic and medium quality or less I can only expect so much from them. My challenge I tried to post was who had good experience of knowing the better “Mid Grade 14” Electric Chainsaws.

Looking at my Local choices at Home Depot they were Wox and Homelite (looking like toys). These little saws are taking care of my needs as I wind down. I have two late 70s-80 16” Poulan S-25 that my Arms and Ears can live w/o unless needed.
My plan is to only bring home pre-cut wood at this point from tree trimmers or contraction sites Etc...

I’ll split 8”-14” Dia wood and stack for seasoning and re-cut some into 12”-8”blocks as I move wood to my patio. My body is telling me my past 24/7 fires are not as needed for the past heat and exercise I used the wood for. I have other projects and fishing that are scaled back as I wind down from my 03 retirement. I can finally live with walking 2 miles 5 days and feel more like I am retiring. My workbench and retirement storage made the best progress when I stopped supplying computers for family and friends. My 87 year old friend is from a different mold. LOL!! He is still trimming/thinning his 7 oak trees planted in the 50s.

Oops! 38 - 65 here in North TX today and 60 - the week. Take Care!

Related notes I had saved since I could not reply:

1. I h/n seen any wood stored outside w/o showing seasoning
cracks and darker color in TX Heat “Soon”.

2. Replying has been a challenge recently causing this Mod
Note. Have you experienced any? Take
Care! Hopefully this is not the end of sharing…

3. Support is suggesting a Browser issue that’s been
maintained with no issues vs a New Format I See.

4. I split some 12-14” Live Oak Logs at least 3-4 weeks ago
   that had plenty weight and no cracks. I stacked it into storage racks this week
   and it was noticeable lighter with seasoning cracks.

5. Live Oak Trimmed just before the freezing
cold (2 months ago). I saved all limbs trimmed above 2”. I did not notice any moisture in the trimmed
wood. 2-4 weeks later I sampled burning
the small wood. I d/n
see or hear any sizzling from sap and added all to hot seasoned wood fires.

***Since I have 7 “Heat Tubes” collecting heat above my fire,
should I see creosote or signs on the sheet steel on top of the tubes? Thanks and Take Care!!!

Loger , hope to continue our Brain Storming sessions lol. As for elect chainsaws , not familiar with them as far as use . Have repaired some of course , Poulan , Makita , Stihl , Remington . Primarily Bar , chain repairs or oil pump delivery issues . As far as appearance the Stihl and Remington seemed Robust . The Poulan was also rather well made with Makita seeming a little less so . However for it,s price was a consideration for limbing standing trees with it,s light weight . Anyhow for the intended use all would do the job . As for the heat tubes I believe you mentioned material as stainless ? if so stainless transfers heat energy slower than carbon steel . Therefore the surface will be substantially cooler which can cause creasote formation when your fire is idling . I would suggest high heat occassionally would Reduce this issue substantially , as well as using the best seasoned hard wood available , moisture or sap = creasote ! The pictures you previous posted sgoiwed no creasote only very little soot formation which is normal .

Any Ideas why I’m not able to post a new message discussion on work vs tagging onto old messages?

Are the brushers replaceable in the Remington Polesaw model 108526-01? I am not seeing the caps to remove for this task. The saw is running fine and my goal is to keep it running if brushers are needed…

What cause one of 2 brushed to wear as one looks untouched (as my chainsaw sharpener) I replace?

Thanks For Any Help!

Any elect starter or alternator repair shop can fix you up with replacement brushs . Normally a weak spring or inproperly installed spring , will cause the brush to not contact the armature properly .This will cause uneven wear .Otherwise a bad bearing also will let the armature drift while revolving and cause premature and uneven wear patterns .As far as the forum all OK at this end ?

Thanks for the possible issues that could cause wear. This has to be a 2003
purchase at the latest with good yearly use, on and off the pole. My first goal will be to see if I can take a quick look at the brushers w/o the ease of opening capes. If any needs are observed, I’ll work from there “and share”. I’ll ck for a Youtube
that can have good tips.

This was a good purchase but the weight of the motor in your hands vs overhead is a better purchase in my opinion now. Actually both can be a challenge
now ,”LOL” and Keep It Short!

My memory and Log-In could be my Log-In issue from studying the issue...

Curiosity pulled the brushers today to satisfy me today. They were not too bad for the age!!! Now I have a good challenge getting them back in. Compressing the brusher’s spring and slipping the brusher in is my challenge after 2 hrs today. I’m sure the Pros have tricks. After resting and brainstorming, I plan to try a rubber strip or fishing line to hold the compressed brushers and springs to allow the Commentator to slide in and pull the rubber or line out…

Two small sets of caged needle bearings are supporting the gears/mechanics. What type of grease or oil by rule is best for the small caged bearing? Supporting
.5” shaft drive gear related to chain’s sprocket. I would say torque is there vs RPM. I was Too Tired for a Pic but forced one.

Tag wire or mono line for brush's also dielectric mono grease for the bearings loger !

Thanks Ewalk!

I have the mono line and tag wire for that task. Will high heat disc bearing grease (which I have) do as well as dielectric grease for the bearings?

A good truck load of Live Oak was a task this morning. Final cutting to lengths, splitting and stacking for seasoning is next. This was Back Breaking 6”-12” dia wood with green leaves but some 12” dia showed seasoning cracks starting. I have no idea how long the 2 major limbs had been trimmed. This in an example of how the
Texas Heat seems to draw moisture and show seasoning cracks soon…

Yes if it is moly based which is needed for moisture resistance within a electric motor usage . Other grease can attract moisture which is bad for your windings . Dielectric seals out moisture and will prevent arcing within electric components .

Some Lessons Should Have Been Learned After 60 Years On The Jobs. I just had a good lesson checking brushers on my 2002 Pole Saw. I hope I
can ""remember"" to not check any brushers on a Motor/Starter Etc. that was not
setup to be checked or replaced with simple procedures. Finally, my Pole Saw is running as it was. BUT! It was not economical or worth my time to “Open, Check and Reassemble” the saw.

It took my planned time to cut up a load of firewood I found and loaded yesterday. That was a lesson also loading wood above my normal lifting limits. A good 2 mile walk helped to get some blood flowing to deal with the pains. Tomorrow I'll hope to get the wood cut down to split and stacked Next Week...

A Big Thanks!

Atta Boy Youngin ! lol.

I am “On Task” with the wood cut (with the 14” Wen Electric Saw) and some blocks will need splitting before stacking to season next week. I am estimating this as 1/4th of a Face Cord (9’ long x 16”high x 18” wide/deep). What amount
would that figure to be on your calculations to a “Cord and Face Cord? My ref to a “Face Cord is wood 16” long vs 24” but still 4’ high X 16’ long (to fit stoves and smaller fireplaces). What calculator on line shows this or math that you use?

I did see what I feel would be a method of replacing the brushers in my Remington Pole Saw. Which involve removing the field using Holes in the Cooling Blades (attached) which is still too much work vs the initial assembly. This looks common to the some electric saws and I feel for the initial assembly vs replacing brushers. I had to use wire above tag wire to hold the brushes seated enough to start the commentator.

Nice clean supply of wood !

Is Fruitless Mulberry a Fair Burning Firewood? I should be answering the question since I have burned some seasoned a year and it seemed “Fair” to me and a friend gave it an OK. I got some of 4 piled 6 houses away last week. The 4 piles have doubled since they took down another tree. No Power Line This Time that
affected our power. The neighbor gave me permission to go in the yard and take any wood vs just wood on the curb. My Son-In-Law and I got a healthy truck load
of the best looking wood and had planned two. More than I should have been lifting-handling, plus it had lots of years of trimming damages (possible insects).

Her promise is that they will cut the wood into sticks to hope it will be taken faster by individuals vs “limiter” City Pick-Ups Monthly (that can be on the curb).

The 14”Electric Wen had no problem cutting into sticks. Next will be splitting wood over 6” in dia. To me the electric is Quite enough that I do not need my Ear Muffs (hearing very little) with my Hood on in the Cool weather. That night, “Said Different “as My Ringing Ears w/n let me sleep. My Ringing Ears are from working around too much machinery on the Job. I took pride in listening for noises that indicate a machine having a problem. Two specialists have recommended sleeping with Low selected noise to override my “Ringing Ears”…

See the attachment of the one load of Wood before and after
cutting…

Mulberry is a very dense and high btu burning f firewood. , however it contains high levels of moisture so good dry seasoning is required (2 yrs ) minimum .

Thanks! You are Dead on with what I found in a search and noticed.

1. 1. The weight is unreal and I noticed rosin coming out at fresh cuts.

2. 2. I have enough splitting dia wood on hand to do some splitting but my Body is saying Wait!

3. 3. My effort is for wood winter after next. I feel the TX heat is processing wood faster
   here in TX.

4. 4. Sparks were mentioned, I’m not remembering compared to “One Time With Bodock”.

5. 5. The Son-In Law reported seeing sticks from the new cuts that I’ll investigate if the City is slow.

6. 6. I patched my heavier replaceable mesh that I might have gotten 2 seasons from (clearing Old).

7. See the attachments:

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Yeah carbon steel eventually burns up. Stainless is great if you can justify the extra cost !

Slow Me! I should have gotten a piece or equivalent at the Scrap Yard before now…I’ll at least call soon and see if they have any and will cut a piece that small. What other stainless material will work in a good stocked Scrap Yard? Looking at prices at Granger, I feel bolting my small needs of carbon steel might be my best option since I have plenty from AC Cages and Security matters.

I did get another small load of the Fruitless Mulberry today. There is plenty wood but there is excess signs of insect’s damage where pruning or weathered damages did not heal clean (from 1969 LOL).

Thanks and take Care!!!

Standard 316 grade stainless would suffice , heavier 304 or 307 if available would last forever lol.

Cleaning the fireplace got my attention as I prepare for the last week of burning possibly. I pulled the sheet metal deflector above the fire’s heat. It slows heat on heat exchange tubes as it works around the tubes to exit the chimney. I
saw what I call soot which had fallen on the top side that encouraged me
to check the chimney. This is a usual sign of needing a sweeping IMO.

The entire process was encouraging since there was not much pain
to look up the chimney. It might show tomorrow, I have my last load of green Oak
to fill a 2 year supply of seasoned/pre-seasoned wood to work (cut/split/stack) As usual, it comes in “Tons when you feel you will not find another free or reasonable “Stick”! Cleaning/Restocking is the Major goal and mild heat now.

Take Care!

Have great off season Bud !