Unfortunately a clear coat of poly is not going to help here and could actually make it worse. The paint could take 30 days to fully cure. If you apply a poly while it is still curing, it could stop the curing process. Secondly, a coat of poly over a light colored paint can yellow.

Can you post a few pictures? And specify the exact paint Valspar paint that was used. Did you use TSP by chance (it requires a really thorough rinsing otherwise there can be adhesion problems). If not, what did you clean/degrease with before sanding? Finally, can you say which primer you used?

Thanks, I used Valspar Cabinet Enamel, Kilz original oil based primer (multiple stores said water based paint over this was fine), and we cleaned the cabinets with soap and hot water, then sanded, vacuumed then cleaned with damp cloths til clear, primed, sanded again for smooth finish, cleaned the same way again, then painted.

1. "primed, sanded again for smooth finish, cleaned the same way again, then painted."

2. It's been a while but I've used many gallons gallons of Kilz origional and don't recall instructions saying it should be sanded and/or cleaned before applying paint. Is paint peeling off and leaving the Kilz or is Kilz and paint both peeling off and leaving original surface?

You might want to cross post this in the paint forum. I really dislike Kilz myself but am not sure if that is your culprit. Some of the pros might have a better idea about an oil primer followed by a water-based product. By chance are your cabinets laminate/thermofoil and not wood? Is the scratching occurring only on the end panels where it is not wood? Non-wood cabinets would need a completely different primer.

I think Klem's question about how it is peeling is a good one as well.

Lastly, if your cabinets are truly wood, do you know if a product like Pledge was ever used on them? Pledge is a big problem when it comes to refinishing as it contains silicone. Sometimes the only solution to that is stripping and then sealing with a sanding sealer.

Aurora Tee- Darnit I started out under paint. Something must've happened. Thanks for the suggestion. I believe the cabinets and doors are all wood. I've lived here a year and don't know what was used on them before so the Pledge is an unknown. I'd hoped sanding down as far as I did I'd hoped it would get beyond that.

Klem1 - The paint scratched away but not the primer. I reread the instructions and they say it "Sands easily. ORIGINAL may be topcoated with latex or oil-base paint."

Cat_ky- We used the Kilz after my Father-in-law recommended it for primer. He's refinished many kitchen cabinets and likes it so I trust his judgement. Perhaps the original suggestion of waiting longer to let it cure is best. I'm just at a loss I guess. Maybe it's old paint??? They were covered in dust at our Lowe's store. I tried the foam first, then a brush, then I tried brush after foam (tested areas all light and heavy) like you said and it all left terrible streaks. I've NEVER had such a terrible time painting and I've done a lot of painting, ugg. So glad you're happy with your cabinets though, good for you

Thanks all for the comments

I'm so sorry to hear that after all of that work, the outcome isn't good. I'm sure at this point repainting is the last thing on your mind BUT if at some point you do, here's what I have used. I have redone my kitchen cabinets 5 times and refinished (and upholstered) plenty of furniture (not a pro). I like to use Zinsser primer, it bonds very well. I always use Sherwin Williams cabinet paint. It glides on like a dream and is self leveling (2 thin coats, never thick). I get my mini roller cover from Benjamin Moore store, it's not foam. And the best brush!

And I know your disappointment...before gray was in, I painted my cabinets gray and my husband asked if I was planning on using primer only. They were prison like ugly, but I was hardheaded and believed that they would get warmer if I painted ALL of them and the original color wasn't fighting with them anymore. They stayed that way for only 3 days and I walked back into Sherwin Williams and painted them again! So exhausting, I was ready to have a bonfire in the kitchen! Hang in there :)

You can use the cabinet enamel over oil base primer, so I dont think it is the primer. I wouldnt use kilz, however, would use the zinnser. The cabinet enamel is oil enriched. It also takes a good 30 days to cure and harden. It is possible, that you are just a bit impatient (I understand that, very well), and need to wait a bit longer. It also needs to wait 24 hours before putting on another coat.

Because of the odor,I'm not a huge fan of original kilz but at one time that was about all that was available. I never experienced anything fialing to adheare to it. To keep things in prospective,it will help if those saying they don't like kilz tell us if it's because paint failed to adheare or for some other reason. It sound's like bad paint. Is it possible rags used in final cleaning were contaminated? If rags from earlier cleaning were used,it's very possible they had silicone on them (rinsing rags doesn't remove silicone).

I find the Kilz more difficult to work with (kind of thick) and has a more yellow undertone. This I think it just personal preference. Like others, I like Zinnser products.

I am no longer using tack cloths (the kind you get at a big box store that feel sort of pasty) when refinishing because of the residues that they contain. OP, if the primer stuck but the paint didn't, I believe the surface got contaminated with something.

How do I know about all of this? Well, sadly I have had contamination happen to the kitchen project I am currently working on in my own home. I have fisheye. The paint isn't chipping or peeling, but those tiny craters are causing me heartache and work. And like Lucky, I will be doing them again.

So you are not alone in your troubles.

Aurora Oh no, that stinks! Well I think I'm just going to have to put up with washing dishes in the bathroom sink for another couple of weeks and hold my breath hoping it's a curing time issue like a couple of folks have said. We've been at this for 2 months now. 2 weeks won't be the end of the world.

Thanks everyone for their input.

What was the finish on the cabinets before painting? Do you have a picture?

If there was a decent varnished finish, Zinsser BIN would be the primer to use. In fact, it's the best primer no matter what. It sands beautifully and bonds better than any other primer.

Chess, it was stained and varnished. Pretty old. It's hard to see in the photo but the finish was worn and they we're dinged up pretty badly

Well that's helluva sanding job. You sanded and wiped down after every coat of paint and primer? If so, it's either the primer (you should have used BIN) or it is a curing/paint issue. Sorry - I know how frustrating this must be.

Me too, thanks

If those are your cabinets in the picture, they will be beautiful, if and when they cure. Its a good idea to wait the full 30 days, and then see how they are. Hopefully, then you can just lightly sand the scratched spots and touch them up, and all will be well.

You sanded really well so it doesn't appear to be a problem of proper preparation. I agree with cat_ky that you have really made an improvement and it looks very nice so far. I hope it is just of a matter of curing a little longer.

Thank you Cat_ky and Aurora. Yes these are my cabinets. I'll post a picture when finished. We're working on ceiling and walls while we wait on curing. Can't wait to have my kitchen back!

Klem I used a different clean microfiber cloth for cleanup each time and with the different sanded surfaces

I suspect spraying is the culprit. If the paint sprayer atomized the paint too fine, it may have been partially dry when it hit the primer. That means the paint did not bond to the primer.

HandyMac that would make sense.

By chance did you use the Willbond before or after you did all that hand/orbital sanding? Did you use Willbond in some places and not others? I personally do not trust liquid sandpaper. When I was calling Benjamin Moore for advice this was one of their questions for me. They said there could be adhesion issues down the road if I used it. But I am just speculating on your behalf at this point.

I sure wish there was a simple solution. When this has run it's course,you would do people a service by posting back on the outcome.

Aurora Tee, "liquid sandpaper" is simply a another name for a deglosser. It does not sand anything, so it's really a misleading to call it that (I know, it says that right on the label). It's good stuff....but don't rely on it, alone. A deglosser just temporarily softens a surface, to allow better adhering of paint or primer. I sanded AND used a deglosser just before priming.

You didn't mention how long you let the primer dry. Painting acrylic too soon over uncured primer can lead to problems like you have, the paint's chemistry has been effed with by the chemicals still emitting from uncured primer.

Casey

Casey- We had to wait until the person with the sprayer was available. In most cases, it was about a week between primer and paint. There are no instructions on Kilz saying how long before you can paint (which I think is really dumb). Though it does say an hour to recoat. I sure hope the week was long enough.

A week between primer and paint is a loooong time, especially in a building where people live.
That is more than enough time for airborne stuff to settle on the surfaces before painting(without cleaning).

HandyMac The cleaning was done again before painting because of dust, etc. I appreciate the comments, though. I know you're trying to help figure out what's gone wrong.

It might answer some questions if you apply Kilz to half a scrap board then paint both halves. If one or both halves failed,we can drop a few assumptions.

Klem1 That's a good Idea. I just noticed that the insides are nice and hardened. We did those a week or more before the gray that's scratching. So I'm wondering if it's a curing issue or perhaps the gray paint was bad. We should try the board, though.

Having the same issue now...

Overtoncleaning- did you ever determine the cause? I’m hoping it’s just cure time

I, too, would like to know if the problem ever got resolved. I have been trying to paint a bathroom vanity for two months and having all the same problems. I chalked painted the same vanity about five years ago. Was not a problem. I have prime, stripped, and sanded. Took valspar lactex paint back. Was going for chalk paint again they were out. So I got furniture paint also valspar brand. Went on smooth but can scratch off easily. Thinking about buying a new vanity!:(

Anyone have any input here? I posted a similar thread in the painting forum but haven’t gotten anyone to reply. I painted a door, primed with BIN 123 and then applied Everlast by SW and it’s been two weeks and I can literally peel the paint away with my fingernail and the back of the paint (black) is white which means the primer is coming off with the paint. I too did everything according to extensive research and followed directions exactly. Arg! Now I have to sand the entire door I’m guessing and start over.

my next project is my cabinets so I really don’t want to have more issues

Not enough sanding, wrong primer, wrong paint.

More sanding, BIN shellac primer ONLY. Zinsser 123 is water based. Then Emerald, Cabinet Coat, Advanced, or Breakthrough, are the paints for a consumer to use. Everlast is exterior crapaint that isn’t really even SW paint. If you want professional quality, you want to move up to Renner or Milesi.

" BIN shellac primer ONLY "

I second that^^.

I just finished painting my caninets today with Valspar cabinet and furniture paint too. The label clearly says that no primer is needed. I scrubbed the cabinets, and sanded. This paint is awful, chipping like crazy. I’ve painted cabinets in the past with just a high gloss paint and they lasted years. It’s definitely this paint. 2 days of work for nothing 😡

There is no paint that can be relyed on to adhere to all surfaces in all circumstances so they should not make that claim. The same is true of primers. Primers stick better to some surfaces than others so some are always better than others,depending on surface. For that reason,it's wise teasting primer bfore putting it on complete project.

I just came across this old post. There is nothing wrong with the valspar cabinet paint. Its now been over 5 yrs, since I painted mine. There are still kids that climb up the cabinets, and I have a 6 yr old Beagle that thinks, he needs to stand up on his hind feet, to check out the counters. So far, not one scratch, and have never had to do any touch ups. These cabinets are original to 1966, and are solid wood. I am still very happy with them.

I had exactly the same problem you are describing with Valspar paint. My kitchen cabinets were previously painted with Farrow & Ball and never had any problems. Painted them with Valspar and after 2 weeks the paint is peeling off everywhere! I am livid! Total waste of money, time and effort.

My cabinets are solid wood too. I didn't spray. there were painted with foam rollers and brush.

Here’s the only thing i can come up with; i didn’t wait long enough between coats. when i painted snother section snd let them fully dry they held up a little better.

Had the same problem with mine. over 24 hrs to dry and scratched with my fingernail came right off.