Number one is the weed and crabgrass killer. It’d be good if you staggered the applications of weed killer - once now, and again when weeds are growing in the early summer. After that, wait a week and put down the pesticide fertilizer in late April. Grass seed you should store until fall. In the early fall, depending on your location, core aerate your lawn and then put down the grass seed. As for the rose fertilizer and fruit tree fertilizer, just read the back of the bag, it should have timing and directions for use. In fact, read the back of the bag for everything.

Are you in the south or north? Do you know what kind of grass you have? You won't kill many existing weeds unless they are actively growing. You never need pesticides unless there is a problem with a particular pest. Many "pests" are good for your lawn.

Good practices to help choke out weeds: Set your mower to the highest setting and water deep and infrequently. You want the soil surface to be dry between waterings. Think more like every one or two weeks rather than two or three days, depending on how hot it is. Weed seeds need constant moisture to germinate and watering infrequently will help prevent weeds from sprouting... unless it rains a lot.

Would be helpful to see a picture to see the extent of the weeds. Whilst the “crowding out” method is valid, it’s often over-prescribed to lawns which really don’t have the turf base for this method to work. Depending on the extent of the weeds, you may need some weed killer to allow the grass to grow in the first place.

I agree, Jack. It's just more of a "good practices" thing.

If your fertilizer is a spring weed and feed type, it may contain a pre-emergent which would not allow your grass seed to grow on the bare patches, until it wore off.

Thank you everyone. This is all very useful information. I live in zone 6 . I already applied the fertiliser with weed and feed... I have so many dandelions, I just thought I had to do it urgently.. however nothing happened to the dandelions.. are they supposed to wilt and die? they still look very happy ..do I need to pull them out or should I mow over it or wait for a few more days?

Dandelions, once established are very resilient. Only REPEATED spot spraying with a weed killer containing 2,4-Dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (usually called 2,4-D) will kill them in my experience. They have deep tap roots and pulling them out without breaking the roots is very time consuming. Even a small piece of the root left behind will produce a new plant. Once it flowers and set seeds, the seeds blown by wind will start a new plant wherever they can get a foot hold. Even after you completely eradicate the pesky weed, if your neighborhood has dandelions, the seeds will be blown into your yard if you don't have a healthy lawn. Application of a pre-emergent herbicide like Prodiamine will prevent these seeds from taking a foot hold in your yard.

Weed and feed products must be applied when the grass and weeds are wet so it will stick to them. If not all you get is fertilizer. Spot spraying is far more effective and much less expensive. Buy a small 1 or 2 gallon pump up sprayer and a bottle of Ortho clover, chickweed and oxalis killer labeled "concetrate". Mix according to the directions and spot spray each dandelion. It will kill them with one treatment however at this point there are already thousands of seeds that have been put down to germinate. This will also kill most any other broadleaf weed you may have.

The crabgrass will be much harder to kill and it might be a better option to just deal with it for now and reseed in the fall (fall is the best time to seed cool season grasses). The crabgrass will die when the first frost comes and using a good pre emergent in the early spring will prevent most of it from coming back next year.

@Priyanka: There is something important you should understand. If you have a lawn that has been neglected, it will take more than one growing season to get your lawn into nice shape. If you do the right things you can expect to have a "better" lawn next year, and then even a "nice" lawn the year after. Keep doing the right things and in your third season you might even have a "great' lawn. The thing to remember is that you can't fix everything all at once. It just takes time.

Priyanka, please read the instructions and information printed on the products you are using. E.g., weed and feed wants the lawn to be wet befor applying, and no water for x days. No mowing for x days, also when to reapply.

Zone 6. So that is somewhere between Lake Arrowhead and Big Bear Lake, right? We really need more than your zone. And need to know what seed you bought.

@dchall_san_antonio i am in Utah . i just posted some pic of the lawn . it's my front yard. same thing in the backyard as well. I don't know about the grass seeds had got . I returned it because I wanted to get the weeds off the lawn before I did anything new. I hope this helps.

I'm not a pro by no means but I would highly recommend a soil test . There inexpensive and will save you money in the long run.

is it ok to use a spot weed control after a weed and feed fertiliser . or is it too much?

Looks like you have every weed known to man Pree. How big is your lawn? You may be better off doing nothing right now and preparing to renovate this fall.

Utah helps a lot, but it has a lot of variation, too. Are you in the Salt Lake region, mountains, or down in the more desert area. There is a zone 6 in every state, but not all grasses or weeds grow in every state.

If you know you applied the weed n feed onto wet grass, then give it a chance to work. If you did not apply to wet grass, then you could follow up with a spray. Sometimes you will see the dandelion flower stems shoot up so fast that they curl into a complete loop. That is due to the nature of the herbicide. If you did not see any of that, then assume it did not work. It should do that within a few days of spraying with Weed-b-Gon. They do not wither away. Instead they burn up all their internal storage of nutrients and die from malnutrition.

Based on the density of your front lawn, it is most likely Kentucky bluegrass with some fescue and possibly rye mixed in. If it were completely rye or fescue, then I would expect to see dead spots on a relatively neglected lawn. It could be the sellers planted new grass seed last fall, though, so I could be off. Fall is by far the best time of year to plant grass in the north.

Beyond the questions you asked, what are you planning to do with the yards? Are they just for looking at or will there be any children or pets tearing up the grass? Do you want it to look nice or very nice? Or do you just want something green (mix of grass and weeds)? Are you willing to water it as much as once a week if it gets really hot? There are prairie grasses that grow well in Utah which don't require much water, but they are not traditional lawn grasses.