> 32 gallon trash cans (1 plant in each) half full with empty 2-liter bottles (for drainage)

Are there lots of good drainage holes in the trash cans themselves?

I think those fruits still have to grow. The problem is sometimes partially pollinated fruit (they have like 1-3 seeds, sometimes not even 1), that will just remain small and usually looks slightly more blocky than the normal fruit.

How these fruits happen is a good question, usually for me on the first 1-2 trusses, and seems associated with too strong vegetative growth (not enough sun, too much fertilizer, nitrogen in particular).

The leaf curl is some stress or another, plants still look good. Stop fertilizing with whatever you were using, or add a bit of high K synthetic, boron can also be missing and therefore limiting fruitset (not common but possible). It's still time for them to have a good crop if they start setting.

One drastic measure if there are still many small buds is to cut the growing tips. This is a guaranteed way the plants will start setting.

Your plants do look like they're getting too much fertilizer. Too much fertilizer can lead to blossom drop and contribute to BER, certainly. And temps over 90 can lead to blossom drop. more fertilizer and adding all that lime isn't necessarily going to do anything and could definitely hurt the plants.

fungus: One drastic measure if there are still many small buds is to cut the growing tips. This is a guaranteed way the plants will start setting.

Guaranteed? No. Not in 100 degree heat, certainly, but not even in normal heat can that be "guaranteed". Topping plants basically just makes the plant direct energy into producing new suckers in the joints right below the cut. I really haven't seen good evidence that this "redirects" significant amounts of energy into existing flowers and fruit. Indeterminate plants are genetically programmed to produce new growth, and as long as the stem cells exist to do that, which they always will, it will try to do that. It's not going to give up on its programmed genetic nature or redirect it.

Topping is not to be confused with pruning to 1 or 2 stems from the beginning of the plant's life and throughout the season, which is a method that has been widely discussed and debated on this forum a million times before.

Gorbelly, I did put alot of drainage holes in the bottom. I'm not sure if the peat moss isn't keeping them too moist, though. I spoke with a local garden shop owner and he suggested less watering and change to Hi-Yield Tomato Vegetable fertilizer (4-10-6). He also suggested a soak (Dycocil?) for fungus. I did purchase the fert but would like to hear from ya'll on the fungus. I appreciate the wisdom.

Also, would gypsum have been okay to add instead of lime for the blossom end rot? Or should I have just left it alone?

What's the weather been like? Tomatoes react to temperature more than many other veggies. Too hot - no fruit set. Too cold - slow growth.

With plastic bottles filling the bottom of the container I wonder if you're creating a perched water table. It's been discussed a lot on the Soil forum.

With good drainage holes, the plastic bottles would create the opposite of a perched water table.

Houzz user, you're making things too complicated. I would have used a good container mix or a tried and true container mix recipe and simply used regular applications of liquid fertilizer intended for tomatoes or fruiting vegetables. At this point, with all the confounding variables, it's too hard to say what the source of your plants' stress is. Too much lime throwing off the pH? Too much water? Too little water? Too hot? Too much fertilizer?

Probably a combination of many factors. I'd hold off on adding anything else for a few weeks, then start back up with a simple liquid tomato formula. Read the directions and follow them or use it at half the recommended strength but at twice the frequency.

Adding lime and gypsum does not address the causes of BER, which 90% of the time is a soil moisture issue, not a soil calcium deficiency.

If you keep your methods simple, troubleshooting is easier. If you just keep throwing solutions at perceived problems, you muddy the waters, and it becomes hard to know what's causing what.

As for watering frequency, stick your finger down into the mix to check moisture levels. If it's still moist a couple inches down, they don't need water yet. Your soil should not be constantly soggy--that promotes BER. Nor should your plants experience drought stress, as that also promotes BER.

If your mix is very high in peat, which it sounds like it is, you may need to water very slowly to make sure that the water is penetrating down into the entire mix. Peat can become very hydrophobic when it dries out. You might try irrigation tape or something like a soda bottle with pinholes pricked in it and set out on top of the soil.