We had a gas line coming out of the wrong spot for our new range - super simple and cheap to have a plumber come out and move it. Took him about 15 minutes tops.

Your current kitchen looks usable, so I would take your time on this, especially since most new door styles come out in the summer months. I agree that staying away from veddinge is a good idea.

ETA There's usually another sale in October or so.

Have you considered custom fronts from Semihandmadedoors.com? If you choose the lower or mid-range finish, the cost is comparable to using IKEA’s cabinet and drawer fronts. You get more choices.

We did an ikea kitchen and did the garbage pull out under the sink with a disposal. I did buy the sink from ikea to ensure that the pull out fit under it. I think it's shallower than I would have liked, but it was more important that I got the trash under there. Also we did Veddinge fronts (simply because we wanted the cheapest option) and the only issue has been how easily they become unaligned with the the door. Not a big deal but it bugs me.

@Sara Sitardites: we've been waiting over two weeks to have our water shut off in order to replace all valve stops (have to shut off entire side of our building), so I suppose we assumed that it would be a similar ordeal to deal with a gas shut-off but we'll look into it!

@latifolia: we're putting a Counter Depth French Door Fridge in. Water line for fridge is located behind fridge, all other water is built into the peninsula. Separate bar is a must-have, but I do understand that we won't end up with much of a pantry - it won't be a big deal for us as we eat out very frequently. We also really want to be able to fit 4 stools on the peninsula, since we won't have a kitchen table.

@writersblock: didn't realize that new door styles come out that frequently, that's good info to know. I don't think we'll want to wait until October to complete this however as we've already demo'd the entire kitchen :)

@ctabony: briefly, but not seriously - probably a great idea to circle back to consider Semihandmade as an option

@Amy Saivetz: do you have a standard size garbage disposal and is it centered or off-set? that's good to know about the doors becoming unaligned - that would def. bug me. Do you think that's a Veddinge-specific issue or IKEA issue?

Additional info regarding the bar area... although both kitchen plans show upper cabinets, we'd like to do open shelving (see pic). Or potentially two upper cabinets with shelving between - not sure if that would look cramped? Here's more bar inspiration that we like: [here[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/brooklyn-girl-contemporary-home-bar-new-york-phvw-vp~84225633), [here[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/basement-wet-bar-transitional-home-bar-calgary-phvw-vp~23451583), [here[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/a-bar-above-transitional-home-bar-toronto-phvw-vp~89662347) and [here[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/chase-road-transitional-home-bar-new-york-phvw-vp~37684267).

I have a 30" sink cabinet with a Blanco Stellar Super Single sink (drain is offset to rear center), Waste King (standard size) garbage disposal, Rev-a-shelf double trash pullout on the left for trash and recycling, and a shorter pullout on the right which holds my compost can and cleaning items. I also have an Ikea pull-out bin (Variera, I think it is not available anymore) on the side wall above the right pullout for more sundry items (screwdriver, tape measure, flashlight, duster etc) and a small basket on the inside of the right door for my sponge and dish brush.

Just to illustrate that you can have trash and a garbage disposal and more under the sink.

@raee_gw zone 5b-6a Ohio - that's super helpful, thank you! Looking the sink up now.

Just curious, have you considered any other layout options? . I'm not familiar with how the IKD service works as I planned myself in the IKEA planner with a lot help here. I looked at the service briefly and I could be wrong but I thought they could give you more than one rendering. Granted I've spent way too much time with the planner and now I see cabinets like puzzle pieces everywhere.

We had that long peninsula (about 100") and removing and replacing with an island (nearly same length just turned 90 degrees) opened up the area so much. Our only dining area was really crammed and the peninsula really chopped the space in half. That spot between the fridge and counter seems tight. I can understand wanting to keep plumbing in roughly the same spot to avoid more work and keeping the general layout, and If you've already demoed I can understand wanting to get rolling.

As for trash under the sink, you can have a good sized space if you have an off set sink drain and all the plumbing and disposal to one side near the back. I'm thinking without an attached peninsula, and island oriented the other way would allow you to have a sink opposite the range, and you could have more space for trash/recycle pullouts and storage eliminating the corner between the range and peninsula in your IKD plan. Seating could be on the other side of the island. Just something to consider if you are even considering something different. I could be committing kitchen layout design crimes with that suggestion though. Just a different way of looking at the space.

You should be able to have the gas line moved. We had to move ours by only a couple of inches but it was well worth it.

One thing you have not mentioned is approval by the Board of Directors of the condo. Is your building an "association"? You may need to submit plans for approval to the condo board, and you will need to know all rules regarding noise, hours you may not use the elevator for supplies, work hours and which days work is permitted. Because you share walls with other people, there may be rules.
In addition, your local Building and Safety Department may require permits and inspections for the various phases of the work to be done. The city permits will be needed in order to get the condo board approvals. Plans will need to be drawn to include any wall changes, electrical changes or additions, and any plumbing changes or additions.
If you start your work without required permits, either the city or the condo association may demand you stop work until everything is approved. You could even be required to undo part of the finished work.
Find out the local requirements and if the condo association or management has any other requirements.
It's always smart to inform yourself before you gave spent any money. Plans, City approval, Condo approval (sometimes condo groups have requirements the city doesn't, and you must follow both).

Thank you for your input! Before we started we talked to our HOA building general manager. He informed us the things that require HOA approval and how to approach the building common areas.

we are good to go!

To address the trash/disposal issue under the sink...Buy a sink with the drain in the back corner. That gets the disposal out of the way and frees up lots of room. Many companies make sinks with such a drain.

I'll echo elleewa... have you considered scrapping the peninsula and instead having an island that runs east-west (as opposed to the peninsula's north-south)? You might be able to use your current plumbing hookups, but would have a space that feels less disjointed.

Unfortunately the plumbing for the entire kitchen runs through the peninsula wall. There isn’t a way to diverge it since it’s a high rise condo that is built out of concrete.

I couldn't open the Traemand plan, but on the IKD, I noticed there were very few drawers, and they were all the 15" high ones. Was that at your request? I think some shallow ones, especially 5" high top ones would be useful for silverware, utensils, etc. If there are drawer within drawers, many people have commented that they wish they had gone with actual drawers instead as it was a pain to have to open two drawers every time they needed something. Maybe 5-5 -10-10 or 5-5-5-15 banks. Something to consider.

Hey Mike,
I have several ideas and possible solutions to a few of your issues regarding gas line and plumbing locations. Depending on certain criteria, they may be easily moved if you so wish.

I do a certain amount of Pro Bono work each year and would happily speak with you about an offer.

I'm 40 years in the business, I do Architectural Design and Engineering and have years of field experience.

Unlike many drafting type folks and even some Architects, I do actual kitchen design layouts in all my plans which are for homes at an average of $750 - 800K (in Indiana)They would be more or less depending on state and locations, and I've done work in 15 states.

I'll share a couple pics here, one is a 75 year old home we are updating, and is currently under construction (I'm helping to GC the job) The other is a vintage Historical 1895 Folk Victorian, this one is a bit more involved as we are moving the kitchen to a new location and adding on over 1900sf of space to boot, but keeping the entire originality of the design in most cases.

If what you see interests you, I would love to communicate further

the demoRendering of newWalls cut out and new headers installed.Opening frame completeRender of that side

Cabinet install started. This home feels so opened now, you would never know it used to be a galley kitchen from a 75 year old home.

This is a slideshow made from the original home and the renderings of what the finished project will be, right down to colors

mike

you can do ikea 18" cabinet with drawer on top for recylcling/trash to left of DW.

on your doors leading to utlities can you change to bypass or bypass barn door - that will give you more flexiblity

if you turn the cabinet to left of fridge to open facing the stove that will give you much more usable space

- depending on code you can move your stove slightly left or right by having a plumber or gas pro add flex or pipiing

Do I understand correctly that your dishwasher is on the other side of your island and the sink? That may prove annoying as you will need to rinse some plates and may want to start by leaving some dishes in the sink while you are cleaning up...

Esthetically it is pretty but try positioning yourself in the kitchen and understand the key moves you make : take something out of fridge, clean it, put it on a chopping board next to stove, grab pan and oil etc.. and see how many movements and steps you need to make. That’s key

Duh just scrolled further and saw it was a fridge bar, not a dishwasher...

Having trash and recycle under the sink is quite convenient and doesn’t take up another cab. It’s a great way to access that space and keep it organized. Trash and recycle with separate doors under the sink cab is quite doable with all Ikea parts. I’ve done it with a 36” base with a Stages 45 sink and offset drain

and a 30” base with farm sink and center drain

Also, if you aren’t able to move your gas line, IKEAs drawers are available in several depths. Make your bottom drawer shallower to accommodate. I used several different depths for the trash hacks.

Can’t view your Traemand plan on my phone but in analyzing the other I have some suggestions. I’ve built 4 Ikea kitchens so know the system well. The IKD plan has the joined horizontal doors. You’ll need to change to two 15” doors like in my example. Definitely do an offset drain as it’s much tighter in a 30” base. I would make both the 12” cabs flanking the range pullouts. Make the right side bottom a shorter drawer base and add as many normal depth inner drawers that you’d like.

Is the corner cab the pullout? The other is worthless. In fact, don’t do any bases with shelves. Either drawers or pullouts with inner drawers. If you don’t have the storage needs for the 47” pullout, you could void that corner and do a pullout and a 36” sink. I don’t know if you’d prefer a larger sink. Change the lowers at the bar to drawers or pullouts. I keep my liquor and bar accessories in a pullout. Makes access easy. I would consider some glass upper doors with interior lighting for the 24” at the bar. I would also convert the top pantry cab to a pullout. Otherwise it’s difficult to reach anything.

Do the Ringhult. It’s beautiful and will be better quality.

I forgot they don’t do 12” glass doors so that won’t work.