@roni973 - Please keep us informed what they say and if you go ahead with them what the solution would be and the associated cost. Like you said, it's very frustrating since the machine is perfect otherwise.

I will-you all have been so helpful so it’s the least I can do!

@roni973 - Hi, would you post an update if possible? Thanks.

Machine still not fixed. Asked Miele to have a service tech call me before I’d schedule a $150 “walk in the door” visit to see if they’ve had success fixing this issue. They said NO. I haven’t decided to spend the $600 for the control board because all purchases are final.

My other thoughts on this are “could the power cord be the cause?” I don’t understand how the control board can still work but not power the door latch properly. Something is off-I just haven’t figured it out yet. Very frustrating indeed!

@roni973 - Thanks for the update. I was told my “walk in the door” fee was going to be $300, which I refused to pay not knowing they can actually fix it.

I'm curious about what happens if the tech replaces the door lock, but it doesn't solve the problem and if later they suggest changing another part, will we be responsible for paying for all the parts and the labor in attempting to find a solution?

@cavimum (up thread, from last year) had mentioned they finally had to have the main circuit board replaced in order to resolve the issue and that it was very expensive.

Another problem is that we can't tell the technicians which part to change. We have to trust that they will choose the right one paid at our expense. Do I have it right?

I replaced the door latch with no success 😡 so I’m just assuming the control board is “bad” but it still has power and all the cycle choices light up but it just won’t “turn on” the cycle.

Again I'd recommend the spring method if possible. It has worked for me for a couple months now. @user02072016 I would ask what their policy is, but personally I don't think you should be paying for anything that doesn't fix the issue. And I think the $150 should include diagnostics, and any other cost should be parts and labor.

My door latch is a bit different. Not sure if the spring is the issue on this one because the new one is doing the same thing as the replaced one!

@roni973 The spring is never "the issue". But weakening it is more of a band-aid for the weak action of the unlocking mechanism. A weakened spring can more easily moved by a weak unlocking mechanism.

Edit: Now that you have 2 locks you might as well try it. Nothing to lose really.

LOL! I had such a difficult time getting the lock back in the machine that I never want to attempt it again. I have very limited access due to the machine being in a small ½ bath.

Up-thread, I've explained our issue in my first post.

Looks like we now have found a trick to prevent the machine from refusing to start a new cycle due to the recurring message "Fault close the door and confirm with start".

Let’s assume the machine is set for a 30-minutes cycle. Here is our workaround:

1 - Set a timer for 28 minutes to ensure that you are at the machine 2 minutes before the cycle ends.

2 - Insert a screwdriver into the emergency door opener slot and manually open the door either when the "End" message is displayed or immediately upon hearing the first click when the machine is trying to release the door lock.

By following this workaround, our machine has successfully started without any faults for the previous 10 cycles. In our experience, it appears that waiting for the second click at the end of the cycle is asking for trouble as it results in encountering the same fault issue.

At least for us and for now, this workaround is a preferable alternative to dealing with the Miele’s expensive service and unpredictable results or purchasing a new machine all together.

Now if only I could get my machine to “start” in the first place…😩

When not in use, leave the machine unplugged. Although this approach has yielded mixed results for us in the past, with the machine occasionally failing to start, it now consistently starts without any issues when left unplugged during the idle time and applying the trick I mentioned above.

Well-I bit the bullet and scheduled a service call. I’ll follow up after my wallet is sucked dry. 😣

@roni973 Good luck!

@user02072016 Look into my 3D printed alternative to using the screwdriver to end the cycle. It essentially installs a permanent switch in that spot (with a tiny bit of superglue) so you can just use your finger.

Thank you Nathan! Hoping for the best - going to the laundry mat is getting old...!

@Nathan -

To clarify, will the 3D printable piece replace the current lever or will it super-glue to it without requiring the removal of the machine's outer cover?

@user02072016

It simply fits into the place where the screwdriver goes and turns the existing thing into a finger switch if you add it with a little bit of superglue. You can see it in my post above from 8 months ago.

@Nathan

Good to know that the cover does not need to be taken off.

Regarding the 3D add-on piece in the picture, more question came up:

- Is the longer leg of the piece intended to be inserted and glued into the existing cavity (i.e., the cavity currently used for inserting a screwdriver), while the shorter leg is meant for finger grab pull action?

- Does the protruding piece hinder the drawer door from fully closing?

- How do we go about printing your add-on since we do not have a 3D printer?

Thanks in advance.

UPDATE!

Well, I bit the bullet and had a service tech come out to diagnose the washer. Turns out I wasted my money on the door lock part. It was the main control board. Very expensive part, but my circumstance left me no choice. The tech was beyond awesome-he is a Miele recommended technician, not employed by Miele. I was slightly apprehensive because he wasn't directly working for Miele, but I had no choice as Miele seems to be outsourcing their service techs. Anyway, thanks to all on this board-it has been a Do It Yourselfers great resource. I am very happy to have my washer back! BUT now I have to my dryer fixed as well-while the tech was fixing the washer, I showed him the dryer that was making a clicking sound each time the drum made a revolution. I though it was nothing to be concerned about, but it turns out it is. Evidently the sensor that tells if the clothes are "wet' or "dry" is hitting the drum. If it breaks off, the dryer will stop working since it won't know that it needs to heat up to dry a load of clothes. So, he will be returning to make that fix as well. At least it is not an expensive part compared to the control board. Here's hoping for many trouble free years for my Miele washer!

@roni973 Glad to have confirmation finally that replacing the main board fixes the issue. I would recommend holding onto the door lock still as the electrode contacts in the door lock are technically a "wear part" and may start to fail, making the door lock itself the problem later on.

Edit: This will first manifest as occasionally loads pausing mid-cycle until you hit start again, especially on high electrical load cycles using sanitize heat.

Yes, I will hold on to the door lock part although I hope I never have to replace it EVER again! It was a real pain to replace.

@roni973 - It's great to hear that your issue has been resolved and thank you for following up. I'm curious, did the technician determine on their own that the main control board was the problem or did you request that they check it? Additionally, if you don't mind sharing, could you provide a breakdown of the costs incurred?

Thanks again.

Thanks for the follow up. Weren't some people reporting they replaced the board to no avail?

When I set up the appointment, I told him that the machine would not start. When he came, he listened to the door lock make the dreaded "click" noise of failure and then went to get his laptop. The tech had a laptop with a magnetic type tool that attached to the panel near the power ON/OFF button. It was able to tell all types of stuff like "drum off center" "drain sensor" (just examples, my machine did not have these errors) that allowed him to rule out other issues. He said the control board was "bad" and it was. The part was $686 plus shipping ($40) with $250 installation. It was a lot of money, but my circumstances made it my only option (hard to explain, but the washer and dryer are in a ½ bath that was built around the machines-I'd have to remove the toilet and baseboard heat register and door to get them out of the room). In hindsight I wasted time and money trying to fix it on my own because I did not have faith in Miele service department since it has been outsourced-I got VERY lucky that the local tech was as good as he is-I felt 1000% better when he told me that he has the same machines in his own house so I knew HE knew what he was doing!

Nate R as far as I can recall, yes-some said replacing the board didn't work. For clarity, the board I had replaced was inside the machine, not the panel that lights up with the load/temperature selections.

@roni973 - Thanks again. I hope your machine remains durable for a long time now, especially after this significant investment, and that the part includes a satisfactory warranty.

For our household, we've been using the workaround I previously mentioned and it's been successful thus far. Our intention is to keep using it until it becomes ineffective. However, everything is going well at the moment.

Thanks again for all the updates :-)

Glad it worked out!

@roni973 Ouch, that installation fee was highway robbery unless he gave a warranty of some kind.

Pulling out the main board is a piece of cake. You just need to remove 2 screws on the side, remove the top cover of the machine and take a picture of where all the plugs go before unplugging everything and pulling the board out. It is a straightforward as it gets.

Diagnosis is valuable as well, when were talking about a $700 part that in some cases might not be the problem!

j'ai enfin retrouvé ce poste de ma dernière lecture de il y a 1 ans que j'endure le problème de déverrouillages. Maintenant elle ne verrouille même plus a chaud. Plutôt que d' affaiblir le ressort j'ai approfondit les 2 encoche de plastique ( la petite encoche) des 2 coté du dit ressort avec une scie a frette de Guitard (scie sans chemin et très mince)...... je me suis rendu au fond . Résultat très (trop) concluant mais j'y suit aller trop loin et maintenant la porte verrouille des que je la ferme. Je projeté d'étirer le ressort mais j'hésite car c'est viable tel quel juste a déverrouiller la porte manuellement. Les pointes et la micro switche ont été nettoyer et tester mais le problème ne viens pas de la.... (Je suis technicien sur des spas.... j'assume mes résulta sur ce que j'avance...) Mon impression c'est que a l'usure du temps et le poids de la porte en verre associé a l'usure des penture de la porte fait pression sur le mécanisme et empêche que le loquet de travail librement ce qui pointe sur le fait que le loquet neuf ou et la carte ne change rien...... Les bobine ou les relais sur la carte peuvent ne pas aider a avoir une belle impulsion pour l'électro aimant. donc dans certains cas cela peut aider.... et un relais ca se change en boutique électronique pour je dirais 50 a 75$$ et non 800$$$ pour la carte au complet donc pas beaucoup a perde dy mètre 2 relais neuf ......

Finally got a new control board and that fixed the problem for me. I have two problem spare boards if anyone has the know how and wants to tinker: I'll give you one if you fix the other for me.

@Nate R - Thanks for the update. Was it done by Miele or DIY? How much did it cost you?

I found the board on Ebay for around $400 and installed it myself. The Power-/Control unit ELP 255-KD is part #6921582 and can be order from Miele for $686. The install is pretty easy if you're halfway inclined to do these sorts of the things. You just remove the top of the washer and then unplug the old board and swap with new. Take a pic in order to remember the plug order, but they all kind of fall in place anyways. Also make sure the washer itself is unplugged and the capacitors on the board have drained before swapping, as they store a charge.

Thanks again for your feedback.

I have a W4842 that's been exhibiting the locking problem for about a year or so now. I tried replacing the electromagnetic lock with one I got from ebay, but no luck. I finally bit the bullet and bought an new logic board (Part No. 6921582 Power-/Control unit ELP 255-KD) and a new electromagnetic lock (Part No. 7021972 Electro magn.lock LC-WA-USA 38.0146) from Miele. I also replaced the rubber drum/door seal (Part No. 6261943 Sealing ring Suds container) as mine had a small tear. Once everything was put back together, I tried a test run and success! No lock or unlock issues!

However, I realized that I had not refitted the grey clamping ring that goes around the outer part of the rubber sealing ring. I put this back in place and tried a cycle. I got a door lock error! Quiet click and no lock, with "Close Door" on the display. Given that I just changed the board and the lock, I figued this had to be mechanical.

Looking really closely at the door, I realized that the clip on the clamping ring was at 12 o'clock, causing the door to have a slight gap at the top. I moved the clamping ring so that the clip is at 3 o'clock, right behind the door hinge. If you look carefully, you can see that the door is engineered so if the clip to goes here, it seals flat. The Miele techincal drawing also shows the clip at 3 o'clock, presumably not a coincidence.

Once I fixed this the door closed completely flush all the way around and no lock issues! So did I need a new $700 logic board and a new $150 lock? Maybe not, if this was mechanical all along. But I'm not spending another three hours to install the old ones and find out... It now works and I have some spare parts.

I can't guarentee that this is a fix, but if you have the lock issues, check where the clip on the clamping ring is. If it's not a 3 o'clock behind the door hinge, try fixing this before buying a new lock/board. Hope this helps others with the same problem.

Thanks for that Duncan, I had the same discovery and meant to put it up as well. Glad to hear you got your machine running again!

@Eric Cossette I ended up changing the power/control board and it fixed the issue, but I will try your fix if it ever comes up again because I am not buying another board if this one fails!

I am having this problem (wont unlock ar end of cycle and fault saying “close the door“ when it is closed). this has happend some previously and pushing on the door and restwrtign worked but not now.

Urgent quesiron - i cannot figure out how to use the screwdriver to manually open the door. there does not appear to be anything that moves to push on with the screwdriver? in the little slot behind the detergnet drawer there seems to be a fixed piece of plastic im the middle of it. nothing i have been able to move with the screwdriver Any hints??? i have an orange tool that opens the drain door but nothing on it fits into the slot (its possible this is the tool from my old washer and not the right one?)

i have gotten it to unlock by throwing the circuit breaker for a bit. but it is not working now and its closed and wet (but empty). Calling Miele Monday but this thread was discouraging and if i can open the door I could use the machine while i wait for a service call.

or maybe time to replace but not loving the options. Don’t want any of the auto dispensing detergent stuff. and new ones look to be hinged opposite of how mine are set up.

If you are handy you can do the setup I mention in my OP. It allows for manual locking and easy unlocking (with the 3d printed part I designed, I can send you via first class mail if you want, I printed a bunch of them, as). You just start the cycle and lock it yourself. Has worked well for a few years now.

The plastic in the little slot is not fixed in place unless something is broken. It may be hard to see, but it has a depression in the bottom of the slot that you can slot a small/medium screwdriver into and then slide it upward. The orange tool also fits into this slot and can be used to slide it up.

Thanks Nathan. I will try again with the screwdriver (my orange tool definitely doesnt fit in there but again it could be the wrong one I might have kept the old one). Right now it opened with leaving the breaker off longer.

I woulkd like to take you up on your generous offer of the 3D printed tool -- I am stupidly not seeing where to send you a private message (I havent been active on Houzz in a while) but if you can send me a message I will send me address. Thanks in advance.

Something is broken in my release. If I push up nothing happens except seeing the front panel flex a bit but no movement In the slot. So I guess the 3D printed part won’t solve my problem.

That is unfortunate...

Do you think powering down the machine will continue to work to open the door while I wait for a service call (and then parts)? At first it seemed to work with 10 minutes -- but the last time I tried several rounds of that with no luck then left it powered down for much longer (a few hours) and it unlocked the door when powered back up. Debating relying on this to do laundry -- vs laundromat. But would hate to get stuff stuck in there!

Has anyones lock fault problem been intermittent?

A few times over the life of my machine prior to this latest problem I had the door fault beep and if I pushed the door and cancelled it was still locked but if I ran a drain/spin it would unlock. Maybe this happened 1-2 times per year.

Then the current problem happened and I just couldnt get it to unlock untill I powered the machine off for 15 min. I managed to do a few loads that day - but then it happened again. Took multiple times tripping the circuit breaker (plug is not easily accessible) and eventually I got it unlocked. Ran a drain/spin cycle to test -- and it faulted and wouldnt open. This was when I started posting here and scheduled service (which is coming today). Eventually, I left the circuit off for a few hours and when I powered back on the door unlokced. I have done about 10 loads without the fault or failure to unlock.

So now not really sure what to do -- the service person is coming today (for another appliance too so I didnt cancel) and perhaps I want to ID the parts with them and get a quote even if I wait. Just strange it was so stubborn and seemed so broken but now has worked for that many loads.

I will have him look at my problem with not being able to do the manual open. If I can figure this out the 3D printed part would help if this comes back.

We will see but the lock was physically damaged so hoping mine is a lock only issue. On the release -- turns out my lock was replaced once before 10 years ago and they didn't thread the release part up the way they were supposed to so it was missing. Threaded it up now so I have a manual release now while I wait for my replacement lock.

Wow you are all so talented. We bought a Meile W4842 in 2013 - so about 13 years old now - for the last 18 months or so, the door wouldn'y open so we used the orange thing to "lift" the door latch - put it in the tiny slot and push it up - that wroked and we used it that way. Now the door error says that the door is not closed!! when it is closed - so I pushed the tiny slot down and it worked for a couple of weeks with that method - something not detecting that the door is closed - now it doesn't work no matter what I do. So should I just buy a new washing machine or try and fix this. Called Miele and the total cost for the technician to come and see would run $300 - then parts and labor - with no promises if this will work and if they are not able to fix it no refunds!

At 13 yrs old, I would just put the money on a brand new one. These days 13 yrs is pretty much end of life for appliances these days.

I can't recall exactly, but I believe these machines cost about double everything else on the market when we bought them in 2011, and probably now too! I recall some claims of 20 years life span so I thought the price could be justified, and given how much I loved our miele vacuums we went for it. Since then I've probably invested another thousand or so (water path control unit, drain sump, and control board), so at this point I am too invested to abandon and am intent on getting that 20 yrs. (at least)! The machines are performing as good as ever although the exterior panels and plastic parts are starting to look a little worn. But they still make me happy ¯\(ツ)/¯