Are you planting stone fruit trees? You'll have to prune every year no matter what. Your vegetables are going to need 6 - 8 hours of sunlight at a minimum, so be sure the fruit trees won't shade the vegetables. For better information about your particular region, you can contact https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/master-gardeners/

nancy:

I am totally unable to provide any insight on successfully growing fruits in Kansas. I can give you some advise on apples. With apples you can find a lot of different rootstocks. I hate the terms dwarf and semi-dwarf because the range of size control offered by many different rootstocks varies greatly.

You will find that all "dwarf" rootstocks for apples are very poor and shallow rooting. They will require irrigation as needed and they will require to be staked for support for the life of the tree. Many "semi-dwarf" apple rootstocks will be ok free-standing and can get by without irrigation.

M27.....called the patio dwarf. Apples get 5' maximum. Can runt out at 3'

if you do not remove all fruit formed until tree gets taller.

M26....Trees can grow 8'-12' tall depending on variety. Can be prone

to fireblight.

Bud-9...Trees get 8'-10' tall unless kept shorter by pruning.

M9337 (Nick 29)....Similar in size to Bud 9 eventually but faster growing.

Apple trees can be purchased on all these rootstocks if you do some searching on mail order sites. Avoid the sites that sell "dwarf" or "semi-dwarf" apple trees yet do not tell you what the rootstock is. Many will offer a variety on a multiple selection of rootstocks.

In my home orchard I have apples on various rootstocks based on what was available when I bought them. Some of my trees are 5' tall x 7' wide and others are 15' tall. Lots of different choices of height controlling rootstocks are available for apple trees.

Commercial orchards in my area are now all growing apples on wire (tall spindle) and planting them 3'-4' apart on M9337 or Bud 9 rootstock. I would think if you choose a variety that grows well under your climatic conditions you should be able to find a rootstock that will work well for your situation. Just be sure to stake the tree and provide irrigation as needed.

I'd go semi dwarf for more fruit per tree and still be manageable in size. The most carefree fruit tree I've ever had (and there's lots of fruit pests and diseases here in Va) is my Japanese non-astringent persimmon. Sweet when still as firm as an apple with a similar texture. The only chore with this persimmon tree is harvesting the fruit and picking up what fell to the ground. It's 12'x12' in size, zero pruning. Never have used pesticides on it, no need. 14YO now and it's delicious annually producing about 3/4 a bushel of long lasting fruit. It's even sweeter when it goes soft after about 2 months in fridge but I prefer them firm as a side dish or in salads....and that's probably more than you want to know so soooo.......long ;)

Back in the early 90's I planted a semi-dwarf Stella cherry. It is now about 35 ft tall.

The size of stone fruit trees can vary by the climate they're growing in. A cherry tree in Kansas isn't going to grow as well or as big as one in Michigan. This is one more reason you might want to lean towards semi-dwarf.

Thank you all for your help! After doing a bit more research, I’m leaning towards the semi-dwarf m111 for apples. I live in a difficult climate so that will limit vigor.

I’ll need to do more research on rootstocks for the other fruits.

lg- yes I plan to prune, I just don’t want to plant a tree that wants to be huge and create a maintenance nightmare.

spartan- thank you for the specific advice. I’d been looking on stark bros. website, but I needed that reminder to focus on specific rootstocks, not just broad terminology.

vgkg- thanks for the recommendation, I’ll check that out!

flowergirl- ha! I see the problem now with the broad “semi-dwarf” term. Are you in KS?

socal- thanks for the reminder. I imagine that’s true of most fruits. I‘m afraid to assume that trees planted here will always perform differently than stated, however.

Yes, I'm in KS. I only planted the Stella cherry because I was told they would never bear fruit here because of frost late. so far we have a good crop about every 3rd year.

nancy, have you consulted with your Kansas State extension and research to see what is suggested in terms of tree fruit varieties best suited for your area? I know that has nothing to do with your decision on size but I am curious.