On an insert like this, the air has to go somewhere. In this case, 'recirculating' means it is 'ducted' out the side or the front.

They exist. Search for ''ductless range hood insert''.

Is that the kind of range you're wanting to put a ductless hood above?

Not sure what the problem is. Here's a whole page of ductless hoods: https://www.homedepot.com/b/Appliances-Range-Hoods/Ductless/N-5yc1vZc3nkZ1z0jzn4?Ns=P_Top_Rated_Sort%7C1

You need a recirculating INSERT ( if this is for looks, and not real cooking )

You buy the motor and fan ( accessories with it, separately). You don't buy ANYTHING until you have shown all specs to your contractor, and cabinet maker

https://www.us-appliance.com/inpl3622ss.html

A 36 or 48 inch pro range is NOT meant for anything ductless unless your range is for looks versus cooking. Any range of that caliber requires a serious and powerful venting, make up air, the works. Where is the KD? I hope there IS a KD

Many ductless range hoods are available at build.com. You can narrow your criteria using the selectors in the left-hand column.

Thank you so much for your answers. The range I have is gas 4 burners 30" wide. The kitchen is very large, open plan, and was originally designed and build ductless. No way I can add duct in my townhouse. The picture I posted is for the purpose to show the look of hood, so ignore that massive range on it.

Some here have found the Vent-a-Hood ARS to be effective for their purposes. I have this link to a thread here. It was last augmented in November.

[https://www.houzz.com/discussions/vent-a-hood-ductless-ars-range-hood-update-dsvw-vd~2347276?n=96[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/vent-a-hood-ductless-ars-range-hood-update-dsvw-vd~2347276?n=96)

You would have to provide an access means through the covering seen in your photo in order to replace filters, etc. You would also have to provide a register or diffuser to insert the filtered effluent back into the room. This is all do-able at some extra, and likely significant, expense.

To do a wood surround like that, your Kitchen Designer will need to duct the air flow generated by the insert to somewhere. You’ll need a duct and exhaust grate similar to a HVAC return, positioned either at the top of the hood, or ducted 90 degrees through a wall into an adjacent pantry or utility room.

Since tecirculating does not typically provide the air flow that a ducted hood can provide, you will also end up with more effluent on the surround and cabinets. That means more frequent cleaning, and the possibility of damage to all of the surrounding wood surfaces over time. That is why that most who need to do recirculating end up with a stainless under cabinet hood or stainless chimney hood, as it will withstand the care regimen better over time. Function rules over form.

Be sure that the hood capture area is wider and deeper than the cooking zone below, as that will help with capture and cleaning both.

Finally, consider the scale of the kitchen and ceiling height both when designing the kitchen. Most large mantle hoods appear overbearing in a smaller kitchen with a shorter ceiling. A 30” range often appears dwarfed by the typical proportions needed for a mantle hood. Be very careful here, and be sure that your KD helps you to visualize this through their software. It’s a pretty significant upgrade expense over a stainless hood, and you do not want to have regrets.

I am dealing with this same situation in my kitchen right now, also with a 30" range. What I have decided to do is first install a low profile over the range microwave, because of the hood and the shape. Instead of using a traditional OTR microwave installation which is attaching it to the bottom of a cabinet, I installed a shelf and attached the microwave to the bottom of the shelf. I did this part last night.

My project for today is to cover the sides of the microwave, the part the extends past the cabinets, with a stationary molding, similar to the one in your photo.

I must also cover the front of the microwave with the molding but not stationary. Attach the molding to a panel that lifts up in order to access the microwave itself. This configurations allows every part of the microwave to be functional as well as the attached hood.

In my case, I want mine to look sort of like a thick floating shelf, with no wall above. In order to get your look, just put a piece of drywall above the microwave.

This is what the microwave looks like. It is 10 inches tall, 30 inches wide, and 18 inches deep. If you want a thinner profile with the same look as above, Home Depot sells a ductless hood that is thinner but the same shape. Then I would simply cover it in the same fashion as I previously described.