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Leaking window on dryvit wall

7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago


Hello, this window is encased in dryvit on exterior but is not properly flashed resulting in leaking on interior at top center. I can’t seem to find anyone who wants to mess with it. Fortunately, it’s only an issue on hard rain from the north. Anybody have any ideas on how to fix? i’ve thought about having someone properly flash and or just going in with a copper flashing at top...

Comments (8)

  • 7 years ago

    Thanks. The ledge is solid; somehow the seal above is compromised.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    If the ledge is solid the water usually doesn't penetrate through stucco surface, but it will penetrate backing materials if improperly installed or flashed, like Tyvek, lack of flashing, not excluding doors, windows, missing or separated sealants, etc.

    There should be flashing installed above windows and if windows are improperly flashed and don't allow the moisture behind the stucco to escape it will leak...

    In some cases if diverter flashing is not installed at intersections in some cases the water from the roof could get behind the stucco, run down the wall and get trapped above the window and you will have a leak.

    Any stucco specs indicate that " all terminations at penetrations, such as windows, doors, light fixtures, hose bibs, dryer vents, wall receptacles, etc. require back wrapping with reinforcing mesh and base coat. The insulation board must be held back from the opening a minimum of 1/2" for proper sealant installation. A bead of sealant is permitted around small penetrations such as hose bibs, etc.

    Windows and doors also should also be installed properly... they should be flashed and caulked per window manufacturers specs prior to installing stucco or any other exterior cladding.


    You need to pin-point the area that allows water to penetrate. I would remove the sheetrock on the inside where it's getting wet (that can be easily patched later" and use a hose and start from the bottom working your way slowly up the window and keep moving up slowly until you see the water intrusion and that the area you will have to examine.

    In every case of water intrusion that I have seen it was because the contractors didn't follow manufacture specs when installing the stucco or they never flashed windows or other building intersections or used sealants where needed.

    I hope in your case this can be fixed with a surface repair whatever it is, because if you have to open up the wall it could be a costly expense.

    Good luck

    Draper thanked GN Builders L.L.C
  • PRO
    7 years ago

    Where is the leak showing at the head? Uniformly across the top or where the windows are mulled together?


    I would look at having a metal mechanic bend up some decorative metal for that crown detail and cut it into the stucco via reglet cut. Create a through wall flashing detail of sorts.

    Draper thanked Windows on Washington Ltd
  • 7 years ago

    Top center between window and interior moulding.

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Do you know which system was used? It appears to be a continuous insulation system, either Outsulation or Outsulation RMD. If so, the information you seek can be found in the details for both systems. (I’ve also included screenshots to give you an idea of the details.)


    Outsulation System Highlights

    Outsulation is the original Continuous Insulation system and is still used throughout the world over masonry and many non-masonry substrates where an air-water resistive barrier is not specified. It is also the system of choice in many retrofit conditions.

    Outsulation details (DS107)

    Outsulation® RMD System™ Highlights

    The Outsulation RMD System from Dryvit has been engineered specifically for residential construction. It incorporates a drainage plane that is installed between the code-approved water-resistive barrier and the continuous insulation. It is this drainage plane that allows for incidental water to weep to the exterior. The system is mechanically fastened to an acceptable substrate with Dryvit approved fasteners or adhesively applied over lath.

    Outsulation RMD details (DS106)

    Btw, you might want to check the roof/wall intersection, because it appears the wall cladding is coming into contact with the roof shingles. (There should be a ~2” gap between the two.)

  • 7 years ago
    last modified: 7 years ago

    Btw, from the pine straw, I take it you live in the South? If so, I’m sure the construction methods used/installation are to blame for pretty much anything that has or will go wrong with your house—including the window leak. ;)

    P.S. This does not apply if this is the problem-laden, circa 1990 Dryvit. If that’s the case, ouch.

  • PRO
    7 years ago

    @Sammy,


    I remember that dilemma with Dryvit in the 90's, lots of homes had issues with moisture and the sheeting was rotting away. Most insurance companies wouldn't issue insurances for new Houses with stucco on them and some required Engineering evaluation.