Crop rotation when you don't have space

August 7, 2019

I'm in an urban home with a postage stamp size yard in a row house; about 3'x15' ish that's combination perennial flowers, herbs & veg.

My problem is that over 25+ years of veg gardens in this small patch, every inch is probably infected with "something" - SVB, wilt fungus, etc. So the advice to not plant squash where there was previous SVB pupae lurking, or no tomatoes where there was soil-borne wilt or other malady, isn't very feasible. I've moved things around as much as I can, but the last few years I've lost about 3/4 of vegs to "something" (e.g., all 6 tomato plants got wilt, with 2 that produced a handful of fruit before biting the dust; so then I yanked those and sowed a bunch of squash seeds -11 of 16 plants got SBV, actually all of them got bit but a few are limping along, having survived my surgery of slicing open stems and killing the grubs).

My usual vegs are some combination/rotation of summer & winter squashes, eggplant, pepper, tomato, cucumber, salad greens/spinach, peas, carrot. I dig through the soil every spring to try to find as many SVB pupae as possible. I've also tried replacing some of the soil with store bought topsoil and garden soil, although it's hard to dig up large patches since there are perennials all throughout the space here and there.

Any suggestions on how to "rotate" when there's very limited space? Containers? Give up vegs for a year or more (but doesn't fungus live in the soil for years)? Stick with just carrots (only one that doesn't seem affected by my diseased dirt)? Thanks. (and sorry so long-winded)

Comments (34)

  • CA Kate z9

    Large pots?

  • lilyd74 (5b sw MI)

    I have a backyard garden too. You already tried bringing new soil in, given sun requirements it's really difficult to move things. I've tried, with some success, rotating by monocropping for a year. For example, one year I grow mostly nightshades, another year mostly legumes, then brassicas, greens, cucurbitae, etc. I try to preserve enough from each crop to last at least two years and in many cases am successful. Alternatively you can learn to live with the diseases and just treat proactively - fungal sprays from the beginning of the season, succession planting of squash for svb, mulches to prevent splashing of soil. Won't help much for bacterial wilt, but should help for other things.

  • Waki922

    Thanks. I might try monocropping - I will dearly miss not having at least a few tomato fruits every year! I've tried to fake out SVB by succession plantings, but I feel like I have never-ending life cycles of them since no matter when I plant, they seem to be active. I've never treated with anything, except once I tried vinegar spray for powdery mildew. I guess its time to start. I have a tiny 2'x3' patch of asparagus that consistently produces so at least there's that to enjoy. At least until it doesn't like being in full shade from the neighbor's tree 2 doors down (with these narrow row houses, 1 mature tree will shade about 3 homes). Its still getting about 5-6 hrs sun. Some coneflowers got the yellows so I yanked them last week, which leaves a 1'x1' hole where there's never been a veg before (although it's directly adjacent - couple inches - from where there was acorn squash that got SVBed).

  • Patti ~ Chicago Zone 5/6a

    I would love someone to respond also. One of the folks here will hopefully help you and me.

  • farmerdill

    There is not much you can do with crop rotation given your circumstances. Soil borne diseases will be very difficult. Rotation has little effect on insects as most of them are strong flyers and just come in when they are ready. Many of the soil borne and insect vectored diseases can be controlled using resistant varieties. Others can be controlled with fungicides. Insecticides can be used to deal with insect problems. SVB moths can fly a long ways and one moth can lay thousands of eggs. Row cover will work, unless you allowed vine to stay in place long enough for the larvae to pupate. Remove and destroy vines when they get infested. C. moschata species of squash are somewhat resistant to SVB.

  • daninthedirt (USDA 8a, HZ10, Cent TX, Sunset z30)

    To summarize, crop rotation isn't important for the home gardener. It's largely impractical. Crop rotation is done on large farms to optimize nutrient usage and slow progress of disease. But a properly and regularly amended home garden won't have nutrient issues, and if you don't have disease, there's no reason to do it. Agree that insects don't pay any attention to crop rotation. If SVBs emerge from one bed, they'll handily make it over to the next.

    Be aware that if you put row covers over a bed that had SVBs, though, they'll be sitting pretty under the row covers when it's time to emerge and do damage.

    Moschata are "resistant" to SVBs, which means that SVBs have a slightly harder time penetrating their vines but, in my experience, they usually do so anyway. They are not "immune" to SVBs.

  • Patti ~ Chicago Zone 5/6a

    Thanks all for your knowledge. I sprayed all spring with an organic spray and I think it helped my bed. I won’t worry about rotating anymore. :-).

  • Waki922

    Dan - Haven't used row covers for precisely that reason. And by "rotation" I simply meant how to manage moving things around to fresh patches of somewhat cleaner soil to reduce soil-borne ills when there's so little space - no where to relocate a fresh garden bed.

    I feel like the soil is OK nutrient-wise. Haven't had it tested but plants that survive disease generally do well (e.g., 2 eggplants where I had wilted cukes last year have given about a dozen fruit each and still going). I amend heavily with compost.

    I defoliate the bottom 1-2 feet of upright plants to try to avoid soil splashing, and gently water at soil level. Haven't had much luck with wilt-resistant varieties of anything. [sigh] Maybe I'll try containers with fresh soil for the wilt-prone.

  • daninthedirt (USDA 8a, HZ10, Cent TX, Sunset z30)

    Yes, I think that if you concede to using row covers, you need to wait a year for the SVBs to disburse. With regard to fungus infection, I'd just use fungicide. Most tomato growers do. I have to suspect that crop rotation isn't going to allow you to escape fungus infection. The stuff is airborne, and if one bed is a few yards away from the other, you can pretty much assume that they will be identically infected.

  • vgkg Z-7 Va

    My usual vegs are some combination/rotation of summer & winter squashes, eggplant, pepper, tomato, cucumber, salad greens/spinach, peas, carrot.

    Hi there fellow Virginian! You probably have a similar growing season as me where I can plant 3 season veggie gardens and do a lot of secondary plantings. For example, early spring planted peas, carrots, spinach, & salad greens can be immediately followed by summer crops. Just re-cultivate the used area and re-fert before planting again.

    Once some summer crops have bitten the dust do the same with their areas for planting fall crops which can include more carrots, peas, greens, and spinach (a narrow planting window for seeds in Va = Aug 20-25th). Any earlier and it's too hot, any later and the plants may not mature before first frost.

    As for dying tomato plants, here I plant them in late April and start new plants from seed again in late May, and a 3rd seed planting by late June. By the time the early tomato plants have peaked the later ones start to produce.

    Both summer and esp winter squashes and cucumbers take up a lot of space so I might delete those from the garden, but growing winter squash or cukes on the north border of your plot on a trellis may be an option to save some space. Hope that helps a little.

    btw, if you like spinach I find that it over winters very well under the worst conditions, I'll plant seed in mid-Nov and the young plants go dormant during the winter to produce an extra early harvest by Mar 1st for me. Just clean them up by mid Feb for a good harvest.

  • susanzone5 (NY)

    I have stopped growing the plants that have the worst problems. I enjoy shopping at the local Farmers Market on Saturdays. There is an organic farm vendor there that grows great squashes and carrots.

    Lots of veggies give me easily dealt-with problems and those are what I grow. Life is short.

  • Waki922

    Thanks, VG. I do make the most of my tiny space with 3-season plantings. I'm not looking for ways to plant more things, I'm looking for ways to keep what I DO plant from disease. After over 2 decades of increasingly diseased plants, I'm hard pressed to find patches of dirt that aren't full of killing bacteria, fungus or otherwise. Nearly every advice says to plant something else/rotate or move the bed. But I have no where to move and I've rotated through my usual list of vegs over 3 seasons for over 20 years. Every year a larger percentage of plants get sick.

  • kitasei

    What would happen if you planted a cover crop like alfafla and just left the whole garden fallow for a year?

  • Waki922

    Kit - not sure if a cover crop would work since it's not a dedicated "whole garden" bed - it's also a perennial flower/herb bed. I tuck vegetables in here and there. Some spots are larger (and by "larger" I mean maybe 2'x3' in my total 3'x15' area) and some plantings are literally just one veg plant amongst flowers.

    The veg spots have roamed around over the decades. When perennials eventually die out, I might put a vegetable in that spot come spring, or put a perennial in a spot that had a vegetable last year. But I suppose I could just not plant any vegetables for a year, just mulch/weed those bare spots and be happy with the flowers and herbs.

  • CA Kate z9

    OK.... pots are out. ;-). There was a thread a number of years ago on this subject and what was recommended then was, I believe, called solarization. Basically one covered the bed with black plastic sheeting, pegged it down and left it for the whole summer. Supposedly, the intense heat generated killed all the pathogens.... and everything else that might be good... in the soil. I never had to do this, so I am reporting a Theory only.

  • randy41_1

    i think solarization uses clear plastic

  • daninthedirt (USDA 8a, HZ10, Cent TX, Sunset z30)

    Just FYI, re solarization, clear plastic, rather than black plastic, does the best job of heating the soil. Black plastic does a great job of heating the plastic. Clear plastic does a great job of heating what is underneath the plastic. SVBs can cocoon at depth of half a foot, though, and solarization won't be very effective down there. The problem with solarization is that it just kills what's right under the plastic. Next bed over, the insects and fungi are doing great, and ready to hop beds, as the wind blows.

  • Patti ~ Chicago Zone 5/6a

    Why can’t you spray a fungicide? It would help, wouldn’t it?

  • John D Zn6a PIT Pa

    I had loads of problems with my garden near the house. I had Septoria/blight as I call it since I can't tell the difference. I tried Caliente 199 Mustard Seed from, combined with not growing tomatoes in that garden for two years. That was moderately successful, but it only moderated the problem; I still had some.

    I tried moving to a new spot in the yard, luckily I have the room to do that. I tried two spots adjacent to fruit trees that I'd recently planted. One was about 250 feet from the house, the second was 40 feet or so farther. Both were about 150 feet from my neighbors garden who also has some problems. The closest plot got the problem the first year, the one 40 feet farther away didn't have the problem till the third year I grew tomatoes there, and that got only a hint of the problem I'd been getting.

    This year I fenced in that whole area, reused fencing and posts and created a 34x64' garden space, most of which I mow. I'm convinced once you get the problem the only solution is to keep moving to a new spot. By next spring I'm planning to dig up and improve enough space from the enclosed lawn for the 25 tomatoes and 43 potato plants I grew this year. So far this year I saw a hint of the problem on one tomato plant, but that plant seems to have fought it off.

    Since you can't move your garden I can suggest over fertilizing your plants. One year I accidentally over manured and It seemed to me that the tomatoes just out grew the Septoria/blight. I got 12 foot tall plants and a normal amount of tomatoes. Another suggestion I have is to find another place to plant. A community garden or space now just sitting idly. Perhaps you could exchange some crops for the use of the space. Tomato sharecropping you might not want to call it. You may be able to exchange mowing someones far backyard for permission to grow there for maybe 4 years. You might present this as preparing the garden space for the owners future use of it.

    I hope this helped a little.

  • Waki922

    Kate - Not ruling out pots. Totally fine with containers sitting in flower bed. The visual doesn't bother me at all. My garden has alternately been called bohemia or crunchy (by polite people) or Mom, WTH is that?! (by my adult children). Not really the prim curated & cultivated look. Although I do put a lot a thought into the perennials, in terms of naturalizing, natives, drought/heat/freeze tolerance, etc. (it just doesn't look like I do).

    Patti - no particular reason to not use fungicide (or pesticide or any other -cide). Just didn't grow up gardening with it as the grandchild of a Japanese master gardener and haven't done so as an adult. (BTW, grandfather prob rolling over in his grave at my boho garden, although he'd be happy I'm still using his shears from the 1930s, handed down to me as an 11-yr old with high expectations to continue his craft.). I'm not averse to using something. I'm truly OK with sharing my edibles, within reason, with city critters, pests and disease (it's all part of nature's beauty, circle of life, yadda yadda), but now that I'm losing over half of the plants every year, it's getting tiresome and I was hoping another small--space gardener had a solution. We had the tiniest patch of dirt in Japan (compared to U.S. yards) but somehow grandfather grew beautiful lush gardens - I don't remember disease being a huge thing but maybe that's because I was a child and wasn't aware.

    John - I have actually thought of precisely your suggestion! I tend the huge yard of an elderly man, who has an overgrown area that was previously a veg patch - four or five 30-40 ft tilled rows are still visible, although covered in grass now. Logistically, it's across town and not convenient to get there. It's one thing to cross town a couple times a month to mow and bushwhack weeds but a veg patch would need near daily attention. City traffic is 45 minutes to go 5-10 miles, it's the pits. But I've been day dreaming about his garden rows for a few years now. :-) Thanks re tip on over-fertilizing.

  • nancyjane_gardener

    Waki, when I moved into town from a large country property I was a bit sad to loose my garden space.

    I tried to get into a community garden space, but it was full.

    The former owners built what looked like a raised garden bed, but in fact it was for construction rubble that they didn't want to haul away! GRRRRRRR

    I went on Nextdoor, asking about community gardens in the area and got a response from a young lady who had recently finished her Master gardener course and had an 8,000 SF yard that she was willing to share!

    I taught her quite a bit about vege gardening (even though she was an expert!)

    You might want to go on Nextdoor or facebook and ask if there's some place to share a garden or find a community garden

  • kevin9408

    I have a couple of suggestions for the original poster to clean up the soil.

    The first and easiest would be to look into a biofungicide called Serenade SOIL with 1.34%

    QST 713 strain of dried Bacillus subtilis, naturally found in soil and water and considered organic., It is a drench to kill fungus in the soil. I say look into it because it is a commercial product for multiple acres and only if you want to spend $600 on it. BUT, there is a retail version for $20 called Serenade Garden Disease Control – Concentrate 32 oz size and also contains 1.34% of the QST 713 bacillus subtilis strain and the same as the Serenade soil.

    You would need to read the label (link below) for mixing instructions and scale it down to the size of ground you want to treat.

    6 to 8 quarts per acre for Serenade soil.

    43560 sq. ft. in an acre, so measure your small plot get the square feet and do the math.

    Another option is like solarization but can be done in a weekend afternoon.

    Buy a propane flamer torch from harbor freight for $20 and use the propane tank from your BBQ.

    Since you have such a small amount of ground to fix start at on side, dig down to the root zone and start torching it, digging and moving soil ahead and back filling as you go.

    You only need to raise the temperature to 140 degrees to kill fungus and the flamer can archive 3000 degrees! you'll kill all that bad fungus in no time, oh and the good bacteria too so you'll have to re-populate the area with compost for bacteria.|*PLA+-+Low+Price+%28Main%29|Propane+Torch|91033&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&mkwid=sF1XORbDv|pcrid|304646592852|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|91033|&pgrid=63551258547&ptaid=pla-297244757211&pcid=1425851011&intent=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4aSZjMv54wIVCr7ACh32mQexEAQYASABEgLYU_D_BwE

    Some potato farmers flame the top vines instead of spraying chemicals to kill the vegetation (standard practice). The flaming has the added benefit of killing all fungus that would otherwise winter in the dead vines and come back the next year.

    I flame my garden in fall to burn and kill all the dead vegetation to prevent over wintering fungus.

    The last suggestion would be to follow Masanobu Fukuoka's lead and read some of his books or look into natural farming, Something your grandfather would approve of.

  • Waki922

    Kevin - thank you for the tips. The flaming is intriguing. I have a propane torch (from hardware store, which I actually use in the kitchen, brulee, etc.). Would that work? Not sure how hot it gets - it's meant for small welding/soldering/DIY home projects. I'm pretty confident I can add back decent amounts of good bacteria with the amount of compost I add every spring/fall.

    Although I might have to do this illicitly - have a suspicion it's not legal in the city. It's illegal to have fire pits, patio heaters or any kind of heat source that's not a charcoal or gas BBQ. Even sparklers on Jul 4 are illegal.

  • daninthedirt (USDA 8a, HZ10, Cent TX, Sunset z30)

    I still think that adjacent beds are going to be infected with the fungus, so if you blast one bed, and kill all the fungus there, you aren't going to remove it from your yard. Fungal spores travel on the breeze, so you can be pretty sure that what is laying on top of one bed is going to find it's way to the other nearby. In farming, rotation is done on distance scales of thousands of feet. So escaping a soil borne disease by crop rotation is more practical. The advantages of rotation and or sterilization for disease mitigation largely disappear on small scales.

    In farming, soil sterilization is done with powerful, and no longer residentially available chemicals, and also with steam. But it's done over very large areas. Sterilization of a small bed is next to useless.

  • kevin9408

    Dan, you've missed the main point. Waki922 doesn't have the room to rotate and looking for an alternative, so the first step is to destroy Early blight & septoria leaf spot fungus overwintering in residues in his bed. It can be done and with proper housekeeping so he continue to use the bed for Tomatoes or whatever, year after year.

    Your statement, (In farming, rotation is done on distance scales of thousands of feet. )

    doesn't hold water here because this isn't farming, it's home gardening on the micro scale. Rotation is not practical for home gardeners and other more labor intense practices are needed with a different plan then in farming. So knowing what you're up against, and how to fight it gives a plan that works for me.

    A look at the fungus in question:

    Alternaria solani - Early blight, and Septoria lycopersici - Septoria leaf spot.

    Both fungus depend on plants from the Solanum family and no others. Both fungus are unable to crawl, walk or slither from one point to another. They are Immobile and depend on wind, water, or digging to move them. They need a suitable host, a way to get to the host, and the right growing conditions for the condia, (asexual chlamydospore) or spores to infect a plant by killing leaf cell tissue with toxins, and feeding on the dead plant cells.

    Poaceae (grass family), Liliaceae (lily family) , or any other family of plant will not support these two fungus, only the Solanum family of plants.

    Killing the overwintering fungus in the ground, where the fungus food (tomato plant) is grown will drastically reduce Condia in the spring. Then with the proper care the plant can then grow to produce a crop.

    His lawn or lilies won't feed the fungus, and his perennials won't, if they're not a member of the Solanum family. So fungus level will be very low in the surrounding area.

    WAKI , once you've killed overwintering fungus in the soil you must keep the site clean of plant debris. Roots must be pulled, all leaves and stems must also be removed, you can't leave anything for the fungus to overwinter in. Your little blow torch will not do it. The flamer I gave a link to needs to be used. No, its not illegal (just have a garden hose handy). When done search the area for other solarium family plants growing and flame them also.

    Then care for your new tomato plants properly with a sound feeding and watering. Plants, just like people, need to maintain a homeostasis balance to produce hormones and steroids for increased resistance to stress/disease. (yes plants use hormones and steroids.)

    I've experimented with the many disease resistant varieties to date. One was called Iron Lady,

    a cross of a "triple resistant" Cornell line and a late blight/early blight line from North Carolina State University released around 2012-2013. 50 -60 cents a seed.

    Guess what? If they're not cared for properly they will wilt. (not from lack of watering but improper feeding) My test plants were neglected to see how resistant they really are, and were ate up with disease in no time. Not far from the Iron lady was a Brandywine heirloom having no resistance, that I cared for properly and had no problems in producing a good yield.

    Regardless of the conditions plant health is of most importance. (I did spray the brandywine with Copper fungicide.)

    Dan, my main garden in the back is 65' x 230' and even there I don't rotate. Maybe 20' to 40' one way or another but not 1000's of feet. I'll be moving my potatoes a few hundred feet away to a new plot, not because of wilt but because of wire worms. 5 yrs ago I talked to a couple that planted tomatoes in the same spot for 45 years! Said they always had a good crop and the garden growing conditions were the best I've ever seen. So the need to rotate can be countered with other measures if one takes the time.

    I must mention Mountain magic tomatoes. One of the hardiest plants I've ever grown. Resists wilts to no end, grows great, high yield (picked almost 100 so far this year and will get another 100+ ) and 99% perfect fruit. They're small about size of a golf ball, about 2 oz. but the Quantity make up for the size. Another expensive seed costing 50 cents each from jung or 90 cents each from gurney's.

    I have a spot in my side yard facing south I plant show tomatoes in. It is 4' x 24' in size, I've been planting tomatoes in the same spot for about 15 yrs. Grasses, perennials, shrubs and flowers grow all around it, everything except plants from the Solanum family. I keep it clean of all plant debris, pull the roots, flame it and in the spring plant it. I mulch with rye straw, use drip irrigation and feed what they need, when they need it. They are my show off jaw dropper tomato plants and give amazing results well away from my main garden by 450 ft. , No rotation ever and right now there is no wilt on them, or pruning of the bottom leaves. Only sprayed them with copper twice this year when the conditions were right for fungus. If I do see a spot I remove the leave, (remember the spore has to kill the plant tissue before it can feed and reproduce and to spread), and with close attention you can stop the spread easily, if fungus levels are low below.

  • John D Zn6a PIT Pa

    It's my opinion that rotating crops is important. If you do you may never have problems. In my opinion it's easier to prevent problems than to get rid of them. I've been fighting problems with my beefsteak tomatoes for maybe 8 years.

    I know a fellow who does rodent and bug removals. I asked him about clearing the problem in my old 11" x 14" garden, chemically. He said he needs certification to use the chemical and he can't afford to do the classes and testing because there's not enough demand.

    It's my opinion you can only use 1/4 of your garden space to grow Solanum plants like tomatoes, potatoes and egg plants. Plus you need additional space if you have perennials. You need to plan your garden so that the perennials help you to do the crop rotation. Each year you need to move to a plot that's not adjacent to a plot you used last year.

    This year I fenced a 34'x64' foot space in my lawn 12 feet high. Parts of the garden are still lawn, lots of it! I thought I had what I call Septoria/blight on one of 25 plants, but it's fighting it off.

    Moving your tomatoes as much as you can within the garden space you have makes sense. Keeping your head in the ground never helps.

  • Shule

    If you have sufficient non-garden space, you can always get a couple swimming pools full of dirt to garden in. :) Some friends of mine have these huge water troughs that remind me of swimming pools, and they use those for gardening containers. They like how they have drainage spouts.

    I was going to suggest solarization, but someone already mentioned that.

    Make sure your plants have enough of the proper nutrients that help them resist pests and diseases (e.g. potassium, calcium and silica) in proper proportion to everything else, of course. It's easy to add too much calcium.

  • floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

    I think maybe some commenters missed the scale of the OPs plot. Their garden is 3 feet by 15 feet. It is no more than a small flower bed. All talk of rotation is impractical wishful thinking. Moving crops by just a few feet each year is pointless. My allotment is larger but it's still too small for proper rotation.

    For the tomatoes and other solanaceae I think the best temporary solution would be container growing. However, long term I think that since the space is so tiny it might be worth removing everything from the bed, perennials and all, and refurbishing the soil completely.

  • Waki922

    Thank you, everyone, for the interesting discussion. A rose bush is struggling a lot, barely growing - I might yank it out. That will give me another 3 feet or so (that isn't part of my 15 linear feet where the veg/flowers are).. My beloved daisy patch next to the stunted rose also didn't rejuvenate as well this year, so I could dig up what's left and move it, giving me another few feet of fresh space.

    Although I'm wondering now if there are grubs or something there that stunted the rose and daisies. Both have been there for years and done well until this year (my other roses in the front yard and the daisies mixed in with the veg patches are fine).

    The daisies are sentimental, so if I yank everything and start over, they would be the one thing that stays. They're from a clump from grandmother's garden - her patch was years old, and they've in my yard for over a decade. They successfully rejuvenate - as the center of the clump dies out after a few years, the edges become new centers and they keep going.

  • floral_uk z.8/9 SW UK

    The daisies, whatever they might be, need dividing and rejuvenating. I'd clear the whole bed and get it over and done with rather than tinkering with little patches.

  • Waki922

    Thanks, Floral. I, too, expected to divide the daisies to rejuvenate, as I do most of the other perennials, but they're been doing fine on their own so I leave them be. Since I don't care whether they remain in the same spot, I just let the center die out if that's what it wants to do, and then the outer edges become new centers of the clumps that form to the side. Then after a few years the clump might migrate back (or not) to where it was before when the center of the "new" clump dies out and it's edges become new centers. Over the years it's become patches of daisies all over the place, some small, some 3-4 feet across - suits me fine. I love the look of a few daisy stems here and there, mixed in with all the other stuff, as much as I enjoy the larger patches with mass displays/showiness.

  • daninthedirt (USDA 8a, HZ10, Cent TX, Sunset z30)

    As I said, way back up top, rotation IS IMPORTANT for farmers, who have large plots that are not regularly amended, and for which nutrients can be used up, and are large enough that infected areas can be isolated. For small home gardens, it makes zero sense.

  • Waki922

    Dan - I tend to somewhat agree since bugs are easily going to travel a few yards away, airborne spores are definitely infecting their neighbor plants, etc. - but we'd be in the minority. I have yet to see online advice that DOESN'T say to rotate vegetables in home gardens. There's nothing BUT this kind of advice. Oh well. I can just start using sprays and trying to keep the plants as unstressed as possible so they're healthier, stronger to resist the Bad Guys.

    Thanks for all the feedback, All!

  • daninthedirt (USDA 8a, HZ10, Cent TX, Sunset z30)

    The people who are recommending rotation are large-plot farmers. To them, home gardens are just the same, but smaller! Now, if you DON'T amend your gardens, say with regular application of compost, yes, rotation might be smart. But large scale farmers don't regularly amend in that way.

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