If they were stained once they can be stained again

A glaze will go over any stain. Contact a finisher please.

Joseph, when referring to a glaze, what products would I be looking at? Would it require sanding, etc.?

Even if you are restaining the rest of the beams, paint the one behind the stair railing.

Jeri:

Contact a finisher please. This is not a DIY.

@Joseph -absolutlely not DIY!! We are having professionals do the work , this is way beyond my skill level! I am just curious what glaze/stain products you might suggest for such work? That way when speaking to our contractor I will know if they are on target with what they might suggest.

@Branson - are you referring to the beam that is behind the loft spindles? If so, I think I tend to agree with you. Would I paint it the same color as the walls or would that be a mistake. The walls are going to be hand troweled.

This is how the loft glulam looks now that the spindles have been removed:

This is what I was originally hoping for...

The guy you want doing this work is going to have cans of stuff with the labels all covered in glaze. It's like wanting to know where Picasso buys his paints; it's irrelevant.

ok... sorry for the trouble!

No trouble.

The current finish will have to be sanded off or stripped in order to restain or reglaze and do a good job. I would not recommend you paint those beams.

What are you going to do with all the rest of the wood? That fireplace assemblage needs to be addressed.

@Beverly, such gorgeous images you posted. There will be a wood floor, complete redesign of that awful fireplace with wood mantle (whatever were they thinking?). I like that stain on the T and G in the second image you sent!

If you come up with the correct solution for your room, you may not need to stain or reglaze any of your wood. Just paint the walls and rip out that stage around the fireplace.

Beverly - thank you for your thoughts and inputs! I drew a concept for the fireplace - the extended mantle to the right actually sits back a little less than 2 ft from the front of the fireplace...I had to add something there due to constraints but also to draw the room in that direction away from the door on the left. We added that door to the left as the door that used to be on the right looked dead on into the master bathroom.

FIREPLACE AS IT IS NOW:

MY CONCEPT:

You can see that I was thinking of going with darker beams (not necessarily this dark) but yet not this dark on the walls. The center of the fireplace is Neolith. Just a mock-up so not exactly representative!

STONE AND NOELITH:

QUARTZITE IN KITCHEN WHICH IS OPEN TO THIS ROOM:

CABINET IS A BIT MORE OF A GRAYISH BROWN THAN APPEARING HERE

MY VERY LAME ATTEMPT TO LOOK AT PAINT COLOR IN A DEMO'D HOME! Unfortunately, I am going to have to choose paint colors very soon before hard finishes go in

Wanting to keep a cozy mountain vibe up there!

Beverly, thank you again. Why no ledgestone? What stone format would look best? That beam that I drew about 2 feet down from the ceiling does not have to be there,I was just trying to reduce the look of all that height! The beam that is over the TV is there because the wall bumps out there and I don't know what to do with it...pic below. The glulam at the very top of the fireplace was originally exposed but sat back from the front of the fireplace and created a bit of an small, odd ledge, pic below. We couldn't move the whole face of the fireplace back to meet up with the glulam because of bearing walls so our builder suggested that we frame out to the ceiling and cover the glulam....but it certainly does make the ceiling that much higher and in retrospect it almost seems that it would have been better to leave it exposed as it reduces the height of the whole fireplace, which btw is 17.5'. It might still be possible to expose it.

Wall that bumps out to right of fp

Look at all the species of Eldorado Stone. Lots to pick from.

Ledgestone shown below is a trendy relatively inexpensive material which is

no better than the stone veneer that was used in the 70's that everyone wants to either paint or remove from the face of the fireplaces.

70's ROCK VENEER

Please select a material that looks like real stone. Maybe a stone that looks like dry stack. See examples below

Thank you Beverly. One other questions for you. Do you think that I should have left the glulam up top at the ceiling exposed even with the weird little ledge? (assuming you saw my picture above that shows that ledge. I tried calling you as I don't expect free advise, but the # shown is disconnected it seems.

Maybe get a response from the forum. My take is that having a large beam start and then stop and start again looks odd. However, I can also see that you don't want that ledge on top.

Hi Jeri, I just came across your post and was wondering how your Glulam beams turned out? I’m dealing with the same challenge of trying to change the reddish fir beams to a tan/ gray. I found it’s not a simple task and already sanded off the first attempt of stain. Hoping you found some success I can copy otherwise I’m ready to throw in the towel and paint them! Thx!

Hi Jeri, I was wondering how your beams turned out? I am dealing with the same challenge of changing my reddish fir beams to a tan/gray. I’ve already sanded off the first attempt to stain them and hoping you had some success I could copy. Otherwise I’m throwing in the towel and painting them! Thx!

@brianrye

Hello, I am pleased with our beams. We had professional painters sand and stain them and are so glad we did. All of our trim is painted so the wood beams are nice in contrast. The color is warmer than I initially planned and I am glad as the warmer wood tone brings out warmer stones on my fireplace. I still need furniture and window coverings!!! A never-ending project! lol!

Jeri, Thx for responding! Wow, the beams turned out great! What type of stain or process did they use to achieve that color? i tried dark walnut transparent stain to hide the red but they came out too dark and blotchy (even after wood conditioner). I’d love to get the results you got With the lighter look.

a side note: the quartzite in your original post happens to be one we chose as our top 3. What did You use for a backsplash?

Thx!

@brianrye

I chose a 4 x 12 subway tile for our backsplash....kept it simple. Still needing pulls and/or knobs on cabinets and glass in the upper cabinets in the background. Not sure what glass to do AND not sure if I want pulls or knobs on my upper cabinets!!! Definitely doing pulls on lowers. What do you prefer?

As for beams, I am trying to recall the color. I am pretty sure that Sherwin WIlliams matched the color of Benjamin Moore Arborcoat in Oxford Brown...I think!!! I would need to find the can. What I can tell you is that the painters put wood conditioner on a portion of the beam but it brought out the pink in the wood...ick! Seemed we had our success when we just sanded VERY thoroughly and stained with an oil-based stain....not water based, not modified oil!!! I can't stress that enough! Then finished it with a low sheen, water-based poly. Hope that helps!

Jeri- thx so much for all the helpful info. I’m on the way to store to get Oxford brown now. Do you recall if it was a transparent or semi trans?

Your quartzite kitchen is stunning! good call on the simple backsplash.... no competition is needed for that quartzite. It looks like you went with a shaker style cabinet so I think your idea of simple pulls on bottom will keep the theme. On the top I think either pulls or square knobs. Maybe try to use a two way tape to temporary attach so you can see both options, then take pics and compare the two options.

Finally, your fireplace has a good blend of colors. Is the rock work natural stone or culturrd stone?

Thx!

w

@brianrye
Good luck with stain! I hope it is Oxford Brown. I looked at so many it's all a blur! Thx for your thoughts on pulls versus knobs. I have a tendency to over think everything!
Our stone is natural stone from Telluride stone.

... and it was semi trans stain