Waterproof Wood Flooring
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Design Girl
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How to really waterproof outdoor wood.
Comments (1)Sorry...No such thing as waterproofing wood. Wood naturally expands and contracts with heat and humidity. All oils and stains need to be refreshed, at minimum, every three years. Most deck materials are already rot resistive....redwood, cedar, Ipe', mahogany, even oak are all naturally rot resistant to some extent. Applying a finish will help the wood last longer and keep its natural oils in. Some deck finishes have metal oxides in them to help resist fading and over drying in the sun but nothing is going to preserve the wood short of petrifying it. One last thing. Paint is maintenance. Oils or stains are a little easier in that you can use a deck wash to remove them and then reapply. Paint must be scraped, sanded, primed and repainted. Sort of makes the cost of buying real deck material, whether real wood or engineered more cost effective....See MoreWaterproof membrane under kitchen hardwood floor?
Comments (13)As Cinar says, the adhesive would become the vapour barrier for glue down. The 6mil poly would work with a floating floor. I always wonder the effectiveness of nails driving through a water proofing membrane. There will be HUNDREDS of nail holes. Like shooting holes in a pool lining and then wondering why the water wouldn't stay in the pool. What is happening here is the condo board failing to understand what they are asking for. This is so common I could spit! This is a great idea with traditional kitchen flooring (tile, sheet vinyl, sheet lino, vinyl planks, etc). The problem occurs when something other than traditional is used. Now the "requirements" become moot. And just for fun, a vapour barrier (like 6mil plastic sheeting) is not recommended over top of a wood subfloor. It isn't good for the subfloor. It causes more issues than it prevents. When working with a wood substrate, the recommendation (by the building industry) becomes a "vapour retardant" with a "perm" (permeability) rating. I would ask for them to sign a waiver stating that if YOUR vapour barrier (which they require) causes THEIR SUBFLOOR to ROT, you are not responsible. Because 6mil poly sheeting has been known to cause wooden subfloors to rot because of condensation allowed to sit on top of the plywood (underneath the plastic and on top of the wood). As expensive as a moisture resistant adhesive is (it will add PLENTY of cost to this renovation) it is the least likely to cause issues down the road. I understand the "concept" but the practice is very odd. Good luck. Sounds like every other NY condo board I've run across....See MoreWood Framed Window in Restroom- Suggestions for Waterproofing?
Comments (4)May I ask why the window area wasn't waterproofed and considered BEFORE tiling?? just curious as to why this is now being addressed? How is the waterproofing from the outside? I would remove any wood and replace w/vinyl. If you could do something like this in the picture and replace the window w/vinyl retro fit, you wouldn't have to worry about water damage. since you've already tiled around it, not sure if this is an option. do you know what was used under the tile? can you remove the wood components? If you can do the necessary waterproofing like shown, then you could tile. make sure to use 100% silicone in the joint areas. since this is an exterior window, expansion and contraction will occur. no grout in the spots that will move....See MoreWood Look Tile or Waterproof Laminate?
Comments (1)In my experience a Tile regardless of the look will be more durable in the bathroom. The term "waterproof" and laminate is kind of a silly thing. Laminates normally have a core that is a MDF or other fibrous material and that type of material swells if exposed to Humidity and water. Perhaps Laminate is an incorrect term in this case. A lot of people mistake a laminate with a LVP or LVT ( luxury vinyl plank or luxury vinyl tile) these commonly have a composite type core and some like the Ridgline product have a Limestone core. Which is waterproof as well. Although Tile tends to be more work when installing it does clean up easier and you can use more abrasive cleaning products on it. the Downfall is it can be cold and loud if there isnt in floor heating or some sort of a muffler to deaden the sound. LVP or LVT in the Mannington product line for example, has the option to either glue down or to have a lock solid or "click together" core so it can be floated. If you chose the tile look you can actually use a special type of grout to make it look more like real tile which is pretty neat. The only down fall to a LVP or LVT is that in the case of wood you cant resurface it like you can with an engineered hardwood material, and you have to make sure when you clean it not to use anything abrasive or solvent base. hope this helps! Good luck on your project!...See MoreDesign Girl
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