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kmcgowan35

If you are replacing a drawer microwave...

6 years ago

I'm posting as an FYI in case anyone else has to replace a MW drawer. The cabinet cavity dimensions in my case weren't the same but luckily I had enough trim around the cavity to make the new one fit. Details:

I had a 30" Sharp drawer MW installed about 10 years ago. I love keeping it off the counter and the functionality of looking down into it (rather than crouching down to see in, or having it in an upper cabinet.) It stopped working about a week ago so I ordered a new one.

I replaced a Sharp 30" with the new model Sharp 30". Since the old one was still in place I couldn't measure the cabinet cavity, so I triple checked with the sales guy on the phone that the cabinet dimensions were the same (I purchased from the same store so he could look up exactly what I had.) He assured me the new one would fit in the existing cavity.

Just an FYI: there is a small rectangular box right behind the control panel on the new model that sticks up higher than the rest of the box. (Didn't measure, but guesstimate about 3/4" high, 1 1/4" deep, 10" wide.) This little box meant that the new MW didn't fit inside the existing cavity.

It turned out fine because my cavity had enough trim on top that the installers were able to cut a notch for the MW to fit. So where the cavity used to look like the mockup on the left, it's now like the one on the right. Once the MW is in place you can't see it.

If you are looking for a built in look, you'd need a bigger cavity. With regular installation (like mine) the MW sits about 5/8" or so proud of the cabinet face. Just an FYI if you are going for a built in look.



Here it is closed:



The control panel (sorry can't seem to rotate the pic):


and open:



Comments (10)

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    Chicagoans...we had to replace ours very recently as well! Like you, all we had to do was cut into our cabinet to accommodate the box that sticks up past the box of the MW. The rest was just "plug & play" -- no other modifications needed. We did it ourselves. Pulled out the old MW, cut into the top of the cabinet frame, and put the new one in the alcove. Done!

    Mine stopped working, I think, due to user stupidity -- me! Someone in my family splattered stuff all over (they didn't cover their food...grrrr!) and it was stuck pretty solid when I discovered it. I ran it well over 10 minutes (15 or 20 minutes?) with vinegar water b/c I didn't want to scrub it and I think I destroyed the interior workings with the excessive water & vinegar steam. It worked once after that and then died. I am so kicking myself...I liked my original one much better! (It was stronger, 1000 watts, and the controls were more useful...including the options spelled out on the drawer instead of having to get out the book or use trial and error.)

    If it wasn't for my stupidity, I'm convinced it would have lasted at least another 5 years or more. It was 11.5 years old when it died.

    chicagoans thanked Buehl
  • 6 years ago

    Buehl: I'm not sure why ours died, but TBH I did get a bit salty with my BF several times when he'd open it while it was still going, instead of pressing Stop, then opening it. That's one thing I like better about the new model: you can't just pull it open; you have to hit stop then press Open.

    Curious: do you find the finish of this model a bit more prone to finger prints? I find myself wiping it more often than the old one. (Maybe because it's new?)

    I'm impressed you did the install yourself! Not sure I'd trust myself to cut into my cabinet trim. (I mucked up some trim during a recent basement closet renovation, leading to a stress dream about my miter saw!)

  • 6 years ago

    I have the 24" wide model and can't speak for the changes. I had the old one in my condo and when we built the house, I got the new model which DH prefers since he can now look down on the numbers. He hated the old one because he couldn't see the numbers.

    I haven't found this newer model prone to finger prints.

    chicagoans thanked cpartist
  • 6 years ago

    cpartist- was yours a flush install? If not, how far does it extend from the cabinet facing?

    chicagoans thanked mark1993
  • 6 years ago

    Ours is installed the same as CP, and its a Sharp 24, so far no problems. New Build, been in use for about 14 months.

    chicagoans thanked Cheryl Hannebauer
  • 6 years ago

    The oven cannot be mounted flush with the surrounding cabinets because any countertop overhang would block the view of the flip-out control panel.

    chicagoans thanked wdccruise
  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    wdccruise: I agree that the countertop overhang would make it hard to see the control panel and hard to access the little tab that you use to open the panel. The MW install guide says:

    • The oven can also be mounted flush. Please see instructions for flush mounting included with the Flush Mount Deflector vent.

    The sales person asked me if I intended to install it flush mounted, as the opening would be different. Maybe the flush mount is more intended for installation in a tall cabinet (like where you'd put a double oven) and not under a countertop.

    I was curious so I looked up the vent install guide and it wouldn't help with seeing the control panel; it goes under the MW.

  • 6 years ago

    This has been very helpful. We are now leaning toward the Sharp instead of the Wolf. I realize Sharp has the patent and is the manufacturer and the only difference is the front design. All other appliances will be Sub Zero/ Wolf.

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    I have to agree with Chicagoans about the fingerprints...it does seem more prone to them and messiness in general. But, I think it's partly b/c the new front is so "flat" and there seems to be a lot more space to get messy than the older model that had the vent in the front that broke up the front. The controls also seem to get dirty faster...probably b/c they angle up even more than the old ones and "capture" the crumbs and spills better.

    I'm not a fan of the new controls b/c my DH won't let me close the control panel when not in use -- he wants to see the clock and I've leg-bumped it several times while working in that area (Full disclosure...I've started closing it anyway. If he wants it open, he can open it when I'm not working there!)

    BTW...you can still open it without turning it off first,just press the open/close button -- I've done it several times. I've also accidentally pushed it closed many times with no issues (at least so far, but it's only been a couple of months).

    Mine also sits proud of the cabinet. I think it will be more obvious for those with inset cabinetry b/c the doors/drawer fronts are inset rather than having the doors/drawer fronts also sitting proud of the cabinet boxes.


    The biggest issue I have with it is that Sharp no longer includes the various options for sensor cooking, melt/soften, etc., on the drawer like they used to. You now have to either check the manual or use trial and error (until you memorize all the options!)

    Oh, and the fact that the wattage is less in the new ones than it was in the old ones.