Hi,

I went ahead and checked the exterior weep holes. They are free and clear.

I will check the head flashing when the light returns in the morning!

Let me know if there are additional pictures that would help explain the issues.

Oliver

If you haven't observed the window in the process of leaking....I'm going to surmise that bit of water staining? probably resulted from a window being left open during a rainstorm.

Most probable reason for the drywall crack is because the drywall was installed wrong. There should never be a drywall seam in that location, at the edge/ corner of a window or door. The drywall should have been notched around the opening.

#8 at the link:

https://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/drywall-installation/common-drywall-installation-mistakes-and-how-to-avoid-them/

Hi ci_lantro,

The only evidence I have that the window is leaking is that the inspector used a moisture meter and it registered allot more moisture right around the crack/warping in the wall. I plan to start pulling off the drywall this weekend to get a better look at what's going on.

Well,

Here's an update after I did a bit of digging.

As you can see, there is a substantial gap on the outside of my window between the frame and the houses siding. I imagine this is partly because of settling and partly because of the potential expansion of a metal frame.

When I came inside and started removing drywall it appears that the crack is occurring right along a line between two studs. (I'm not sure on the official way name for these things, I'm a car guy who's learning to become a house guy :) )

I should note, that the interior crack is on the opposite side of the large exterior gap between the frame and siding.

Can you step back and snap some more inclusive photos from both sides? Something doesn't look right there.

WWLtd. had it right in his first post. This is a flashing issue.

No drip caps and reliance on caulking and paint alone will normally yield this type of infiltration over a long term.

100% what these gentleman said. You will probably need to pull the windows to properly flash them now, especially since there is already water infiltration issues.

Not the outcome I was hoping for but such is life. On a scale of 1/10, how difficult is a window replacement job for someone with minimal wood working skills, but mechanical ability to rebuild motors etc?

These are aluminum windows? Where are you located? Could moisture be condensation on cold aluminum? Before you plunge in and remove the window do a hose test to see if you can see that's the problem.

That's a good idea Seabornman. I'm located in North Bend Washington State. It's just east of Seattle and at about 1000ft of elevation. I'll do a hose test this weekend.... I need to go buy a hose :).

There is no head flashing. The aluminum may have condensation but the lack of flashing will be a major factor, and if it were only condensation the damage would be quiet a bit less severe.

Hey guys,

I was able to take a couple daylight picture to give you a better idea of how the window is oriented etc. The rain would need to come in at 90* in order to hit the top of the window as the roof overhang is quite large. Not sure if that changes any of your thoughts, but I figured a wholistic look at the situation would be useful.

Here're a couple more pictures from the inside of the house after I removed more of the drywall to inspect for water damage to the studs.

It looks like there is possible mold on the insulation.

Oliver

The window is not flashed properly. It is probably taking in water at the sill as well due to no pan or waterbarrier. Again you need to gut the area pull the window and reinstall into a properly flashed opening with either this window or a new one, then reinsulate, etc.

Being that far under the overhang, I would also look critically at the mullion between them. It has really good overhang coverage so perhaps you can fashion a drip cap to be installed retrofit as a middle effort. If you want to be sure, once and for all, that the issue is fixed...millworkman is correct that you need to yank the window and re-do it.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your advice. I'll continue to keep this thread updated as I move forward so that people can use it for future reference.

Millworkman, when you say "gut the area" how far beyond the window should I be gutting the walls? I don't want to overdo it!

Thanks,

Oliver

I'd hate to see you do all that work and find out you haven't solved the problem. It's a sliding window? Are there other sliding windows in the house? There needs to be a way for water to get out of the track and go to the outside at the bottom. Again, a hose test is your next step.

Hi Seabornman, yes it is a sliding window. Unfortunately it's the only window of it's kind in the house, all of the other windows are wood, or vinyl.

I will be conducting a hose test tomorrow (have to go buy a hose) and will report back with my findings.

It is raining outside right now, so I'm going to try and identify the leak while it's raining, for an authentic diagnosis if possible.

Drywall and insulation under the window and possibly a bay to either side.

Today I completed the hose test and I believe I've identified where the water is entering the home. With that said, I'm still not 100% sure where it's getting in from the outside.

I sprayed down my window and was able to see water coming through to the inside at the bottom right corner of the window. It almost seems like it's leaking in from the sliding track of the window. The first picture give you orientation. The second picture show's the corner where it's getting wet.

Note: The "dark" wood in the left hand side of the bottom picture is not wet, that's just a shadow. The water is actually in the far blurry corner that's dead center of the picture. It's very slight, my camera couldn't pick it up.

"I believe I've identified where the water is entering the home. With that said, I'm still not 100% sure where it's getting in from the outside."

I will still bet on the head flashing or lack there of. But that is the funny part about water, it could be from just about most anywhere as it makes its own way and appears where it wants.

Mechanically fastened window...definitely a potential. The amount of overhang tells me that it would have to be a Heck of a rain or a roof leak to get in to the wall above that window as this point. Still not done properly, but the window is definitely a potential. Don't even need to do a hose test. Just take a bottle of water and slowly dump it into the track and put a paper towel on the rough opening. If it shows water, your issue is in the corners or with the weeping system.

Thanks everyone. I will conduct a "water bottle test" and report back.

I really appreciate everyone's help. Hopefully this thread will help other folks who experience a similar issue as me!

Oliver

Keep us posted or shoot a video of the test. If the leak is in the corner, it should be pretty instantaneous.

Interesting juxtaposition between the actions of some folks when they get free advice. Glad to see someone actually appreciate it.

Will do. I think I'll be able to get a video tomorrow.

It's tuff to get decent light this time of year as our days are very short up here in the Pacific Northwest!

Oliver

Hey everyone,

It was too dark for a good video but I was able to see that the water was not coming in through the track system. I was able to verify that the weeping system is working correctly. It must be coming in from the lower corners of where the window frame meets the siding.... at least that where I'm guessing.

Oliver

Hello everyone,

I wanted to provide an update on the situation.

Recently we endured two of the rainiest days in the last 20 years. My property received just over 6 inches of rain during the two day period. This rain was not a direct downpour, it included 20mph winds from virtually every direction at one time or another. I know the window was being hit with rain because of the fact that there was water in the tracks and that water was dripping from the weep holes.

During these days the window did not appear to leak at all. The window and the wall below it remained completely dry. Based on the fact that the window is poor quality, I still plan on completely replacing it in the spring, when I can get a dry window of weather. A piece of me was hoping that it would leak so I could be sure of where it was leaking!

Thanks for the update!