Software
Houzz Logo Print
steve_fridman

How to remove over-polish on a few planks

6 years ago

So this may seem like a peculiar request. My installers left some residual glue in between a few planks. I eventually got it out, but only after rubbing a microfiber cloth over the area. Apparently I overdid it in a few spots and now those spots exhibit more “shine” or buff than the rest of the planks. May seem like a minor issue (it is I guess) but under lighting this contrast drives us crazy. The difference in sheen is clearly visible. This is not a situation where we removed finish, the opposite- that area is more shiny. My question is, how can this be undone? The only thing I can think of is extremely fine steel wool but wanted to first run it by the experts here.

TIA

Comments (16)

  • 6 years ago
    last modified: 6 years ago

    "Bostik Towels 60-Count Adhesive Remover" as well as the liquid form on a microfiber cloth.


    I was also hoping normal wear would take care of it, but it really hasn't. Is steel wool an option?

  • 6 years ago

    So a quick look up of the Bostik Ultimate Adhesive Remover - which is the solution sitting on the towels you used - gives a clue as to what you used. http://pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/747224656018_install.pdf


    Ingredients:

    Unsaturated Methyl Esters (aka Fatty Acid Methyl Esters = FAME)...biodiesel is made out of these molecules (this is a type of solvent/fuel).

    Aliphatic Dibasic Esters (DBE): short change oily product that is biodegradable. Usually produced using alcohol.

    Surfactant: soap


    I'm assuming you rinsed the residue from your floor? I'm wondering if your scrubbing had to be done because the glue was older than 2 days. The instructions state the cloth/formula needed to sit on the glue for 5+ minutes if the residue was older than 2 days.


    What is interesting is the instructions clearly state the fluid should not be allowed to flow between the planks. This makes me believe this product can eat through a polyurethane finish if allowed to sit too long. And this makes sense if you realize you used alcohol, soap and diesel on your floor.


    Steel wool is probably not a good idea on wood. Do you know the gloss level of your flooring? Do you have a photo?

    SF thanked SJ McCarthy
  • 6 years ago

    So I think that allowing the solution to flow between the planks is ill-advised because it could break up the glue underneath. That glue is good :) Glue on top bad :)


    Gloss level on this flooring is very low. Which is why these piece stick out like a sore thumb. I really don't think any damage was done, and in fact I can reproduce the effect by taking a dry microfiber and rubbing (buffing) another piece. The solvent can be removed completely with enough water, which is generally my process- use the wipe, then remove any oily residue with water.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    You can carefully buff it down with a Scotch pad and water. Wet buff the area, wipe dry and inspect the shine. Repeat until you're satisfied.

  • 6 years ago

    Sorry for the obvious, but which type of scotch pad?

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    Green dishwasher pad

  • 6 years ago

    Thanks. Tried that, didn’t work. Same sheen.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    You can use a maroon pad, if, you would like to use something more aggressive.

  • 6 years ago

    Photos?

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    As G&S mentions, a maroon pad might work. It's the abrasive pad used to buff floors between coats of finish. Another option would be to purchase some very fine sandpaper from maybe 300 grit to 1000 grit. Try it on a spare piece or in an inconspicuous spot on the floor. to see if you can match the sheen on your original floor. Stores that sell automotive paint and supplies should have fine wet/dry sandpaper.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    300 or 400 grit wet buffing will de-gloss, maybe 600 grit will degloss. 1000 grit and higher will start shining. A maroon pad is 320 grit.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    I was thinking to start with 600 then determine whether to go higher (shinier) or lower (duller).

  • 6 years ago

    I was even thinking a 'magic erasure' (don't hate me!). I know. I know. Never use Magic Erasure on wood (or anything with a finish)! I know. But in this situation, I wonder if the super high grit sand paper (aka. magic erasure) would help to dull down the surface in a controlled way.


    Just a thought. If you have one...it might be worth a try.

  • 6 years ago

    0000 steel wool used lightly is pretty good at removing shine.

  • PRO
    6 years ago

    Becareful using steel wool. The surface needs to be cleaned of any metal flakes. Otherwise, rust deposits will show up.