It sounds like your understanding of electrical wiring is such that you should hire an electrician.

I would run an unswitched power line to the new fixture and a switch loop to the new switch. I'd leave the current light where it is to avoid further cosmetic repairs which would be difficult to blend with the rest of the ceiling. Be aware that finding a convenient power source for the new light could be a challenge.

Don't think of it as 'moving a light'.

Think of it as two separate tasks.

(1) Remove the existing light

This may be difficult without punching a lot of holes in the ceiling. If this light is used as a junction point (where one cable is coming in and one cable is going out to another light) then you can't just splice the cables together and cover over the hole. All connections need to remain accessible. So you either need to replace the light with a junction box and put an ugly cover plate over the hole or you need to replace the cable that is coming from the source and route it directly to the destination (ie. removing the 'middle man' that this light was behaving as)

If you are really lucky, the light is an end point (ie. only one cable coming in). If that's the case, then you need to find where the other end of the cable is and unconnect/remove the cable from that box (so that it can never be hooked up again). Then you can remove the light and box and patch the hole. The cable can be abandoned in the ceiling if both ends aren't in junction boxes and can never be powered up again.

(2) Add a light and switch to the pantry

You need to find a constant power source nearby that you are allowed to tap into. Run a cable from that box to the switch box location and then to the light location.

Moving it won't save you anything. It will probably be more work and expense. Just install a new light in the pantry.

1. Visit city hall for a wiring permit. As a homeowner, you're allowed to do your own wiring, but not anyone else's, and only if you're also the occupant of your own home. No rentals, whether you're owner or tenant.

2. Find a source of power, preferably in a cellar or crawl space below, or an unfinished attic above. Choose carefully, because by code you can't borrow your power from a dedicated circuit or one that supplies your counter receptacles. You'll need to do some electrical detective work to make sure you're extending a general purpose circuit.

3. Cut a hole in the wall for the switch. Don't hit the stud!

4. Cut a hole in the ceiling for the light's junction box, or for a recessed light, if that's your thing.

5. Drill a 5/8" hole up into the wall from below. You'll fish your feed cable through this hole. Make sure you have a clear shot to the hole for the switch box. You may have to drill through cross blocking with a long drill bit. If you do, be careful not to drill off center and end up outside the wall! Ask me how I know. :(

6a. If you have an unfinished attic above, or the ability to lift floorboards as needed, you get off easy. You can drill down into the wall through the top plate from there. Drill the center of the joists, if necessary, so you can pull the cable through to the location of your new light. In an unfinished attic, you can also nail a running board onto the joists and staple the cable to its side.

6b. If no attic, you'll have to cut another hole in the wall near the top, and at least one in the ceiling, so you can drill the top plate to fish cable into the ceiling between the joists. You may need additional ceiling holes to drill joists and fish the cable through them.

7. Using a fish tape, fish cable up (or down) from your power source to the hole for the switch box. Make sure it's long enough at both ends!

8. Fish cable from the switch box hole to the ceiling j-box hole. Again, allow lots of slack. Better to cut it off and waste copper than to have to fish new cable.

9. Strip the jacket from the cable at all ends, freeing about 8" of conductors.

10. Install old work boxes in the switch and light holes, with the cables pushed into their connectors (usually plastic retaining flaps). The jackets should project into the boxes 1/4". At least 6" of conductors should project beyond the faces of the boxes when the boxes are in the wall. Don't connect any wires to power yet, or connect any of them together, or install the switch or light.

11. Caulk the holes in the wall plates with fireproof caulking.

12. Call to arrange your inspection.

13. Once you pass inspection, you can connect and install your new switch and light, then connect the new run to power at its source.

If I've forgotten a step or two or more, I'm sure someone will correct me.

If all this seems like a lot of work, well, now you know why electricians get paid the big bucks.