Thanks, Ken! Relieved to hear that. The trunk seemed to lean a bit crookedly so I left it in, but I'll remove it now!

Natures method of strengthening a trees trunk is the swaying back and forth in resistance to the wind. As Ken B wrote above, with the stake attached to the tree's trunk, the tree is prohibited from swaying in the wind. If and when some leaf yellowing, or other disturbances occur, it is common to be one of the lower leaves, because these leaves are the oldest on the tree. A citrus leaf has a life span of approximately 18 months to 2 years and then is dropped.

Thanks @Silica! Super helpful. I wish I knew back in August so it had a couple months of wind strengthening that trunk! But I'll try to shake it often indoors and hopefully that helps.

Your tree should be just fine. I've observed on my own Nagami that the oldest leaves always curl like that before they fall. As for the tree leaning, you could always try loosely tying a guide line (I use jute twine for this) in the opposite direction to the lean to either a stake in the edge of the pot, or to the outside of the pot (this might take some figuring and working), just to correct the lean a bit. It will still let the tree flex some in the wind. Otherwise it should straighten itself over time.

@bonsai_citrus_and_indoor_gardening Oh that's a great idea about the guide line - thanks so much!

What kind of potting mix do you have it planted in ?

Have you sprayed for any pests before it comes in?

Have you acclimated it to come inside first?

Have you cut back on fertilizing?

These steps will help you to have any unforeseen problem that generally hits many when they have not prepared to bring them inside)

To stake or not to stake. Fruit trees usually yes. Non fruit trees no. Practical considerations of the weight of fruit. Apple and Peach orchards near us always have Mature trees staked. Franz nursery sells 84" crated citrus trees staked. I prefer to stake early rather than wait and than try to drive a large stake through roots. Citrus in containers never will develop roots fully as nature intended so you have to weigh each situation. Are the fruits small or grapefruit size? improper staking can girdle tree and do a lot damage. Stakes and ties can harbor disease and insects. I removed stakes from 50% this summer. Last summer I lost good limbs and fruit from fruit weight so this year I propped up branches with bamboo trellis. Any article is have read on the subject was referring to in-ground non fruit trees. The wire support you have is the type used on very small trees. Probably the bands are too tight now as your tree has grown nicley.

Usually I stake by driving stake between branches so the tree has minimal tie straps.

8 oranges no stake

8 Oranges WITH stake.

@Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.) I have it in Espoma Organic Cactus, Palm & Citrus Mix and have moved it gradually from partial sun to now full shade (where it's been for over a week). Back when it was in full sun, I did one round of Citrus Tone and weekly foliar sprays of DynaGro Foliage Pro. Once it's inside and seems to have acclimated under my grow light setup, I'll continue to fertilize as usual.

It doesn't seem to have any insect issues that I could tell? I usually inspect the leaves (especially the new growth) very closely every few days and have been doing Castile soap sprays just in case of eggs and used a few sheets of sticky insect traps hung on the tree as well (probably overkill but its been interesting to see what's out there!).

I've also done one application of copper fungicide a few weeks ago when we had a lot of nonstop rain. Got a bottle of neem oil on hand as well just in case of spider mites but not sure I'm comfortable using it (it seems to damage leaves from what I've read).

I'm kind of nervous about bringing it in even with all this prep! I'm planning to give it a good wash (all leaves, trunk, planter pot) before I roll it in from the patio.

What do you think? Am I missing anything?

@Lemon Lime Orange Zone 6a I went down earlier to remove the ties from the stake and you're right they're just a little snug! I left the metal stake in there for now and just moved it to the opposite side of the trunk so the tree can't lean on it (it's now in between a couple lower branches). Thanks for the info - super helpful!

Perfect

Print off this chart. Most initial leaf drop indoors can be thwarted by adjusting the T and RH to a lower VPD. Turn on your homes humidifier. Aim for 1.12 VPD or lower. Need a gentle fan indoors. Just bought a Dyson cool and running on the lowest speed. Plants like it.

Citrus, Cacti, Succulents, Photography · More Info

Q I was curious about the Epsom Cactus, Palms, and Citrus potting soil. I started online and spent an hour looking for the maximum humidity of their Cactus, Palm, and Citrus soil. Then spent 45 minutes on 2 calls to Epsom and finally had to send them an email as they didn't have this information and they had to contact a 3rd party for clarification. Their products are very good and I have bought their citrus fertilizer before but have never used their potting soil. My question which remains to be answered is what is the maximum humidity, or maximum moisture content, or field capacity water content of this potting soil? Typically cactus soil is a low nutrient with high sand content and will go to the wilting point water content after 5-7 days. I use potting mixes that hold a maximum humidity of 60% and rewater when it reaches 40%. It helps to know the field capacity and wilting point of a potting mix to gauge your watering schedule indoors.

Q, looks like you have been doing your reading, good job.

I have never seen the mix that you are using so I am not sure about it's holding capacity for water and nutrient exchange. Not sure how long it will be between watering either, but a good rule of thumb is that it should be porous enough to dry out evenly and rather quickly, I'd say for our cold area less than a week at a time in doors. Keep an eye on it and make sure it holds it structure all winter and that it does not hold salt deposits. I'd do a good flush of fresh water before bringing them in and try to collect rain water if you can.

You are doing a great job. You won't see mites with the naked eye so keep an eye for distorted and limp leaves towards the middle of winter.

MIke

@Lemon Lime Orange Zone 6a Thanks so much for looking into the soil info for me - that's so nice of you! I've saved this VPD chart and am referencing it when I bring my tree in late this afternoon. It'll stay in my bathroom with a grow light and small fan so I should be able to adjust the humidity somewhat. Funny enough, I rarely had to water it so far -- rain took care of it! Indoors, I'll track the soil moisture via a meter and water when it gets to 4. Not sure how long it'll take for it to dry out to this stage indoors, but I'll keep an eye on it. It's the one plant I'm babying to this extent! :)

@Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.) Aw, thanks so much! Means a lot coming from a citrus pro like yourself! I wasn't sure about the potting soil quality to be honest, it was just what was available at my hardware store at the time I repotted. So far, I've rarely ever watered it myself because rain had been taking care of it. I do notice the top layer appearing somewhat dry within 2-3 sunny days after a soaking rain, so it's relatively fast draining and porous I guess?

I'm going to move the tree indoors late this afternoon/early evening and was originally going to wash and rinse it outdoors but I might try to do this in the shower instead to control the water temp (I have a flexible nozzle).

Should I do a preemptive Neem soil drench just to top things off?

Q,

A Neem drench if used the right way should not harm a thing and actually kill any eggs that might e hiding in it. Make sure to invest in a good magnifying glass, a tool every inhouse growing person should have.

I usually let my trees dry out before bringing them inside.

You said you plan on growing it on the warmer side? Or colder side of things?

If that mix is made up of mostly fine particles, like lots of peat, it will have salt deposits in it if you use tap and fertilizer at some point, because peat draws it like a sponge, acts like a filter and so do clay pots, and if you use rain water all winter, you should have minimal leaf drop if at all.

By the way, humidity is really not needed to grow happy citrus tree indoors, but can still benefit like us humans do)

Anytime)

@Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.) Oh great - I'll take a look at my bottle of ready to use Neem and see if I can mix up a drench. I plan to grow it on the warmer side of things because I'm in an apartment without access to a cool garage or basement space. I'll definitely try to collect rain water this winter! The humidity is just to acclimate the tree a bit - I feel like I'm about to do a magic trick switcheroo and trick that tree not to drop any leaves! 😂

I originally planned to wash the tree earlier today but trapped on work calls until 4pm!

Q. Espoma never got back to me. They probably have a 3rd party making their potting mixes and this is a question they probably have to research themselves. Sometimes I see a question on Houzz and it gives me an opportunity to research interesting topics.

Practical considerations. Citrus require warm water. Cold water will shock the roots and trigger WLD.

You might want to investigate grow tents. The advantage is higher humidity and reflective light.

https://www.gardenista.com/posts/5-secrets-tips-grow-indoor-lemon-tree/

Different tree but the same genus same idea.

Q,

Did you say you were going to have it in your bathroom? A separate room? Do you have a pic of the area? Will it sit in front of a window and will the sun be on it too with lights?

Why not crack the window a bit for a few days and close the door. The outside air will flow in giving the tree much time to get use to being in doors) That's what I do and it works great. Never WLD on my trees.

So many things can cause WLD, but if you can avoid all the things that can, it would be you proud of yourself)

Another thing that can is bringing your trees inside with too much of canopy for the roots to keep up in less than sunshine conditions. That is why I cut most of mine back to compensate for the lack of long sunny days. The roots don't have to work as hard to keep all the leaves healthy. My trees would shed if I didn't. If I can't fit an entire tree into a window to get every bit of sun, they get cut back. Unfortunately too many of our trees share the space which becomes a problem unless your windows are very huge or the tree is very small or only one sitting on the table or sill dedicated for that window. Thank God for grow lights)

Hey @Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.), unfortunately, my bathroom is windowless. I was going to keep it quarantined for a month in case any bugs show up then migrate it to a window with the grow lights (north facing, ugh!).

Went to go grab my bottle of Natria neem oil and realized it's the clarified type that only works to suffocate the mites instead of systematically treat the tree, so ordered some to arrive this weekend.

I just finished washing all the leaves and branches with a bar of Castile soap and a sponge (seriously tedious!) then liberally drenched with more soap and running water into the planter to flush it out and hopefully drown any critters hiding in there. It's draining outside for an hour or so, then I'll cart it up to my apartment! I'll keep you posted, haha. First citrus tree is such an endeavor! 😅

Q, one of the best things you can do before bringing any plant from outside inside is easy.
Just fill a bucket up with warm soapy water , not one with detergents but a safe one like Bonner baby soap something all natural and dusk the pit under water until all bubbles come out for at least 20 minutes. I do this with many of my plants that I bring in like now and you don’t have to quarantine it at all after spraying the leaves with a good horticultural or a weaker Neem solution.
You’ll have killed all eggs of pest and anything in the soil.
Unless you address the soul too you will get pests winter if they are in the soil How long is quarantine.
Also scrub or wash the outside of the pot.
You can stick it right where you want it once you bring it in right away workout fear of pests.
Hope this helps.
Yes , keep us posted.
If you need pics of what I do just ask. No pest issues yet on those I soak.
Mike

Good morning @Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.)! I didn't have any container large enough for the pot it's in currently (it's 14" square at the top) or I would dunk it for sure! I did manage to flood the pot for 10 mins or so, hopefully that did something. I'm planning to keep it in the bathroom for at least a few weeks, probably a month at most. I think most pests probably pop up later than that, but the bathroom is where I could give it undivided attention for a bit. Much, much appreciate all your advice and support! I'll keep you all posted as it adjusts to life indoors (I'm joking with friends that I now have a high maintenance roommate, hah!).

Oh! One thing I did notice after I got it inside last night is a series of 4 new leaves on the same stem that seem a bit wavy textured. I accidentally damaged one of them last night when I was furiously washing it because I felt a slight stickiness after I pressed down on the leaves with my fingers. It seems citrus miner-like but I'm not sure?

Q, be cautious about over worrying your tree to death.

LOL, I am such a helicopter plant parent!

Silica is right..lol

I did the same thing with my trees at first, and then I had to let the worry go. If I had to helicopter over all my plants, I'd fun out of fuel. Lol over 350 of them. I just do what I can do prevent issues before they come in and after that , if they crop up, I do what I can with them then. Remember, no matter what you do, if you own plants, even one, there is always the risk of some kind of pest at any time in doors, it is what it is.

Relax now that you have done all you can and worry later if need to.

Watching them flower and grow, looking for some new sign of something that makes you happy is what is fun about this hobby especially being able to walk by the tree every day when you use the 'el bano'..lol Trust you will be watching for new growth. Don't watch for bad stuff)))

Silica, Lemon and I will be around if you need anything at any time. Thank God for people like them,

Also, remember, your tree DOES NOT need humidity to thrive, in fact, if you are one to take frequent showers, that should be just fine. If I had teh room in my bathroom, that is where every humid loving plant I own would grow)

Mike

Q Good analogy. Very true for growing citrus indoors. Your Nagami kumquat is a good choice for indoor citrus. No two growing situations are the same so you have to learn a lot from trial and error. Silica makes a good point, sometimes people that try to fix everything do more harm than those who just leave it alone.

@Meyermike(Zone 6a Ma.) @Silica @Lemon Lime Orange Zone 6a THANK YOU ALL! 🤗 Look forward to continuing this citrus journey indoors! 🌿🍋🍊

:0)))!