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astha_gupta33

soundproofing experiences for exterior noise in existing construction?

5 years ago

I have a top floor condo at a somewhat busy intersection. The building is wood frame on a concrete podium with wood siding. Assuming that like most people my noise issues were with my windows I bought a test secondary soundproof window and it did not do a thing.

So it must be my walls? I am thinking of trying the green glue and second drywall (regular drywall or Quietrock) on the inside of the existing exterior wall (without removing any existing drywall). This will cause the loss of 5/8th of an inch which is tolerable. I don’t have a lot of inches to lose and build a second wall though I may consider it for the master bedroom (causing a loss of 2 inches due to the sound isolation clips).

Anyway, anyone have success or failure stories to share from their own experience ? My hope is that boosting the low frequency transmission loss of my walls will give a chance for the soundproof windows to do its job. I don’t expect or need pin drop silence, just want the loud engine rumbles/motorcycle noise to sound more distant/muted. I can’t build a second wall.

Thank you!

Comments (23)

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    The STC rating of the wall should be more than your window. A test secondary window?

  • 5 years ago

    Secondary glazing - An interior storm window. The original windows were replaced once already by the original owner - dual pane laminated glass - 1/8th inch and 1/4 inch thick separated by a 1/2 inch airspace. Obviously they could have gone for something thicker, but maybe this windows STC/OITC matches the walls quite well in the low frequency range ?

  • 5 years ago

    The secondary window has a 3-4 inch gap from the primary

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    Walls or the roof. Easiest way to rule out the windows is to step into a closet that is on a shared outside wall.

  • 5 years ago

    My problem is every room has a window or a skylight :(

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    The walls and skylights are probably the week link, maybe the roof. You’re getting into expensive options . pity could try putting something over the skylight. Do you know how your exterior wall is constructed?

  • 5 years ago

    Check your outlet and switch boxes. Any other wall penetrations.

  • 5 years ago

    We’re actually getting our roof replaced in April. At that time I will upgrade the skylights from acrylic to double pane laminated glass. (Though I am not too concerned about noise in the areas that have the skylights.) the roof will be replaced with 3 ply modified bitumen and has insulation.

  • 5 years ago

    Following. I have a similar issue, my headboard is on an exterior wall that faces the highway which is 100 yards away. It gets real loud around 5am. Not to mention our ac unit is right behind the headboard too. I really want to relocate it but that would cost a fortune! We added shiplap as a accent wall behind our bed and it has helped some. I’m pretty sure if we got double pane or hurricane windows it would probably help too or maybe plantation shutters but not ready to drop a lot of money on windows right now.

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    There are ways to soundproof walls, but they require some additional accommodations around windows, base trim, etc. You need to, in effect, "de-couple" the wall from the framing to abate the vibrations from the exterior. Tell us about the wall construction.

  • 5 years ago

    I believe it is 2x6 single stud

  • 5 years ago

    I believe it is 2x6 single stud

  • 5 years ago

    And the building was built in 2003. I think they went cheap on some things and didn’t use “DensGlass” or whatever which would have helped with mass

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    If it is still that bothersome after the skylights, as mentioned you could put a piece of foam inside of the shaft and see if that helps with the noise, you are going to either strap the wall with resilient channel and isolators, or use green glue and a soundproof drywall. There are a bunch of ways you can do it, just depends on the amount of wall depth you are willing to add to.

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    Might be cheaper to move?

  • 5 years ago

    Hahha, I bought this place sadly at a very low interest rate.

  • 5 years ago

    Re Windows on Washington’s suggestion - so that’s my question. How effective will green glue plus Quietrock on just the exterior walls be for my situation if the ceiling is not involved ? The skylights are actually not a big concern - they are in the bathrooms or in hallways away from the source of the traffic noise

  • 5 years ago

    Or are you saying the skylights may be compromising the ceiling in all the rooms ?

  • PRO
    5 years ago

    Until you can tell what is coming from where, it's impossible to tell. That said, when the roof is done (i.e. membrane or single ply roof with foam and/or recovery board), it will be pretty darn sound proof.

  • 5 years ago

    I had a sound engineer come by today. He said he thinks the double laminated windows basically maxed out the wall in the lower frequencies, so we'd need to boost the walls first. Going to explore a few options -- double drywall with greenglue/quietrock and Resilient channel/sound isolation clips and see what's what. Will keep this thread posted.


    He didn't think the ceiling was involved.

  • 5 years ago

    Just one off the wall comment...normally ...you will begin to block that out after living there a while....and secondly are you sure the double windows won’t help ...after all windows are covered?...

  • 4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    Thanks for this, and following. I have a condo that is right on the train track and between two crossroads, so the trains blare their horns when they pass, which is at least couple times during the night. My bedroom is up in a loft, open to six big skylights. I am considering making an isolated "sleeping chamber" kind of thing around my bed just to make the noise more muted. Learning a lot just reading this, I didn't know about green glue and Quietrock.