As long as there's no moisture sensitive insulation in or on the walls and there are no voids between the different insulation materials, which would permit convection loops, you're set to go.

How much insulation you install depends on the minimum RValue required in your area. See here to determine the minimum per county.

Here are the IECC 2018 recommendations:

It's a shame the base plates weren't set on a waterproof barrier or pressure treated. As is, they will wick up moisture from the concrete.

The base plates are pressure treated wood so I’m covered there. so would you just put insulation batts in the wall that’s pulled out from the concrete. The space between that area won’t creat moisture from condensation? Sorry new to all of this.

The insulation should be tight to the foundation wall. Otherwise, you will be creating moisture laden convection loops. Depending on your climate zone, you may want to add additional insulation towards the inside of the basement or not.

As per the link,

- "Convection loops around your insulation will essentially eliminate their insulating effect, carrying the heat around the insulation to the cold wall behind. Insulation pushed directly against the basement wall (click here for cautions about moisture proofing the wall first) will effectively prevent these air convection loops. With no air currents, the only moisture that can get through the wall is what can diffuse slowly up to the top of the wall and out through the wall without causing saturation conditions."

The one thing to absolutely avoid is fiberglass against the foundation wall.

This

from Rockwool shows how to use two of their products in your situation.

Instead of the hammered fasteners used in the video, which bridge the insulation, you can use energy efficient plastic fasteners or other methods.

Also, don't forget the important rim joist area, which can't be seen in the photos.

Source: Building Science Corporation