The heater probably draws more power than twice that many lights.

I have 7 shop lights with 4 T8 32 Watt bulbs each all plugged into the same outlet with 20 amp service. That's 28 tubes total all run thru the same timer and 2 power strips. In all it's probably draws close to 1000 watts with no problem.

Four foot fluorescent shop lights are 60-ish watts per pair. Most home standard electrical outlets are rated at about 15 amps (1800 watts). So, in principle, from one outlet, you can run about 30 pairs of shop lights. That'll really light things up! What you really need are a whole lot of outlet splitters.

Oh yeah. Have to add in the heater. That can be a biggie.

As others have already pointed out, one outlet can easily support all of the lights. The heater is another matter. Electric heaters are typically 1500 watts - which will use nearly all of the power from one outlet. If you run lights from the same outlet, the lights may dim while the heater is running. The heater should be run on low output (if it has that setting) or run from a different circuit.

As to "up my power capacity", if you're going to exceed 1800 watts for everything, then use other outlets and run extension cords. You aren't going to up the power available from one outlet. You need to start adding up watts to figure out where you stand.

I am the furthest thing from an electrician, so feel free to ask for clarification on this from someone who actually knows what they are talking about, but I'm thinking it would be better to run the lights on the extension cord and the heater directly plugged into the wall outlet. From a safety perspective.

I would reconnect the outlet in the bedroom. There are very few outlets on a circuit by itself. On older houses there weren't any. The only thing the codes call for today is separate circuits in the kitchen for the refrigerator. I think the circuit in the obvious position for a toaster and a microwave should also be on a separate circuit. But even then the plug has two positions on it inviting you to plug something else in.

If you have a clock or a light in the bedroom you'll most likely be OK. Just don't plug another heater in the bedroom.

It's never better to use an extension cord than the house wiring. The extension cord is 16 gauge wire and the house wiring in usually 14 gauge, rarely 12 gauge. The smaller the number the bigger the wire diameter.

Our bathroom had zero outlets in it. But a foyer outside the door of the bathroom where the sinks are, has an outlet, so that's where we ran the direct cord for the heater last year, no extension cord in that case. It has a long cord so the heater reached into the bathroom far enough. The only downside is the door wouldn't stay closed . . .I can probably jury rig a latch . . .

Our house was built by someone who had a wife in a wheelchair, so the shower and toilet room is HUGE and we don't use it for a shower anyway, we have another bathroom with a shower and tub. So in the spring it becomes our little greenhouse . . . the shower is like a small walk in room, complete with windows at the top . . .

Edited to add that someday we may just take out the tub in the one bathroom, make that a nice walk in shower and turn the huge shower room we have and don't use, into a combo soaking tub greenhouse room . . . when I maybe hit the lottery.

Your sun is wonderful there. Wow those great looking plants too. I have a husband in a wheelchair (who was an electrician pre-stroke) and that size bathroom is a dream to me. lol!

He would say to plug the heater in the closest outlet and make sure you use a good extension cord. He would prefer a grounded one. He is not able to verbalize or work but I have know him 42 years so I know what he would have said to your question. He first would say that you really should not use extension cords so maybe you need to add some outlets in that area.

What I meant to say is that I would reconnect so that the outlets on both sides of the wall now work.

The reason there is no outlet in the bathroom is that water and electricity don't mix. No one wanted to take the liability for why your hair dryer fell into the tub with the occupant of the tub.

Outlets in bathrooms are pretty standard. I think the code is that they need to be at least six feet from shower and bath. But if you want, you can sure manage to electrocute yourself. For lights, I see absolutely no problem with using a good quality extension cord. For a small room, I doubt that a full-bore heater is really needed anyway.

There's NO tub in the room. Only a huge, bathroom sized shower stall, big enough to house a wheelchair. It's at the back of the house and it takes a long time for hot water to reach it, plus the floor is slippery and it's cold back there (since there's no heat in there either, just an air vent from the bedroom and two of the walls are outdoor ones) so we NEVER use it for showers. We have another bathroom all together for that. That's why we use it for a mini greenhouse. The new outlet is at least six feet from any water if not much more. It's just inside the door, over the baseboard. The other outlet that came with the house, is just outside the door, against the wall. Ironically, that one is right next to the sink, which is in a separate area, so if I was going to drop an electric appliance in the sink and electrocute myself, that would be the ideal place to do it. However, I don't use electric bathroom appliances and neither does my husband. That's where previously we had been running a small electric heater to heat the huge, mostly unused bathroom on the other side of the doorway. The only downside was the door didn't close over the plug and it would fly open due to temp. differences, thereby decreasing the efficiency of using the heater to heat that room. Just going to hook up some kind of bungy cord thing for it and I should be set . . .