If you are in USA it appears it is up to you if you hard wire or plug connect it. Presumably your existing wiring is a conduit hardwire and your electrician saved you the additional cost of him installing a plug in receptacle and the cost of a plug in cord set. Of course not convenient for you if you want to pull out range for cleaning behind or when you again replace range. If you are in Canada the electrician violated the electrical code since any disconnection of a hardwired stove/range REQUIRES the conversion installation of a plugin receptacle and therefore requires you to purchase a plug in cord set even if you are reinstalling the existing range. All new ranges in Canada come with a factory installed 4 wire cord set , no option for 3 wire, the plug receptacle must be 4 wire, has been so for perhaps last twenty years.

My in-USA Electrolux/Kenmore/Frigidaire induction cooktops, and my Wolf wall ovens, all come with flex conduit for hard wiring. The conductors inside the conduit are higher temperature rated and higher AWG number (thinner) than normal house wiring components used for the same current. Plugs and receptacles typically do not meet the required temperature spec for interface.

The bottom line is that wire nuts (which are higher temp rated) and special wiring blocks (available at electrical distributors) have to be used by Code. I use wiring blocks because they are more positive and repeatable at the 6 AWG size, and because the house wiring to the connection is stranded with ferrule terminations.

So how to meet the in-view disconnection means rule? I chose lock-out/tag-out at the breaker box. Some may put a panel somewhere where the appliance tech can control access.

My KitchenAid double oven induction range was plug in, not hardwired. The range that it replaced was also plugged in.

I should add that I would have preferred plug-in. Also, my wall ovens were purchased at the end of 2007, and design approaches may have changed by 2021.