I forgot to add the poly.

What "poly" were you supposed to add?

I used tapcoms

They should unscrew.

Not sure what purpose poly was intended to server but suspect it was related to outdoors.

Since you are indoors,I doubt it matters.

Hi,

Poly is required for wood studs when you are framing walls on the basement floor. It will protect the wood against any moisture, tapcom are concrete screws.

Thanks

"Do I need to be concerned and is there a solution other than removing everything I have done?"

"Poly is required for wood studs when you are framing walls on the basement floor."

You answered your own question.

He’s referring to the required polyethylene sill seal, as a capillary break. And yes, it is required to separate wet porous concrete from untreated wood that will rot when exposed to the moisture in wet porous concrete. You want your bottom plate to rot out and all of your work to be for naught? The power of water’s capillary action ensures that the studs will wick water into them, just as the concrete wicks water through it, due to ground contact.

There is no option but to redo. You won’t pass framing inspection without it. Yes, this requires several permits to do this. And its a large power draw, that requires a licensed electrician to run the wiring. If you have space in your panel for the new 2 dedicated circuits. Plus all the rest of the heat transferrence and condensation issues that such a thing can cause.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-STYROFOAM-R-0-14-6-sq-ft-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Roll-Insulation-3-5-in-W-x-50-ft-L/50071519

What is under the concrete? If there is a 6 mil poly vapor barrier under the concrete, moisture exposure to the bottom plate should be minimal. Is the bottom plate cedar or pressure treated lumber? If yes to the two questions, I'm not sure that I would change anything now.

Moisture will still wick up in the tapcom holes made in the poly unless they're sealed with a caulk of some sort. The best bet is using green treated lumber for the bottom plate along with the poly. (Nails or screws driven into the green treat need to be approved for treated lumber)

My nephew decided to finish his entire basement and proudly offered tours of his framing and I mentioned the bottom plate wasn't green treated. He had used tapcom's and adhesive and he wasn't going to replace them so I said "oh well, if you like the smell of rotting wood the rest of your life just leave them."

A few days later he had an electrician come for a bid on wiring and the guy told him he won't do the job unless he replaces the bottom plate with green treated and pulled a permit, and I guess a bell went off in his head so he replaced the bottom plates and it was major pain for him but he did it and was rewarded.

So I'll tell you the same, if you like the smell of rotting wood just leave it to rot and save yourself the pain. I like the pain of doing things right, feels good and I would not only use green treated but also use a 1 x 4 PVC trim board under the green treated. For me I did use PVC trim board under every green treated bottom plate in my basement along with silicon sealant and 4" tapcoms. Such a pain followed up with a joyful rewarding peace of mind. Endure the small pain now and you will also be rewarded grasshopper.