I did have someone PM me so I have created an ebay listing for the parts. They are made to order at the moment and will ship within a week.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/314553165801?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=swudvy9tty-&sssrc=2524149&ssuid=swudvy9tty-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Thank you so much Ma Mo for applying your ingenuity to solve this tricky issue and sharing the solution with all of us. Does the ebay cart contain all the parts we need to fix the issue or we need additional parts from HD or McMaster-carr? Thanks you.

Hi Ismail,

The listing is for all the parts required to fix one burner. Nothing else is required except for a slotted screwdriver for installation.

Please make sure there is at least 1/2" of room between the top surface of the gas valve and the underside of the knob trim ring for the part to fit.

I would buy 6 of your kits in a heartbeat. or if you could post the part numbers…THANK YOU!!

I will order a set from you. but 1st could you mark on the photo where is the " 1/2" of room between the top surface of the gas valve and the underside of the knob trim ring for the part to fit." I want to make sure I undertsand it clearly and measure first. thanks again.

When I remove the red knob I see a plastic disc like shown in the picuture. Do I need to remove that to do this fix? If yes, how did you all remove the plastic disc? Thanks,

Ismail,

Yes you must remove the trim ring. Rotate it counter-clockwise and pull and it will come off, exposing the valve.

For the measurement, you need to ensure there is enough room for the part to sit on the top surface of the valve as indicated in the first picture by the red arrow.

Measure up from that surface to the top or front surface of the stove as shown in the second picture. My measurement is 1-1/16". Then, measure how far the trim ring protrudes down into the hole where it sits like in the 3rd picture. Mine is 7/16". Subtracting the two measurements gives you the space between the top of the gas valve and the underside of the trim ring. In my case, it's 5/8" so the part fits.

Updating my comment from 4/19. My fix didn't last. Once I checked that it was OK to loosen that screw, and tried it with the gas turned on, it didn't work. I may try Ma Mo's fix, or may go back to my old fix. Which was a piece of foam held down with double sided tape inside of the metal surround thingy. It creates enough drag on the knob to keep it in place.

I checked mine out, different design but as far as I can make out I do have approx 1/2" space between the top of the gas valve and the underside of the trim ring. If I order and it doesn't fit can we return (minus shipping costs)? thanks again.

Hi tom,

Yes I could do that.

I will order. Hopefully it will fit. If it fits but plain doesn't work, I assume I can also return it (I'll pay to ship it back). thanks.

All, one more issue I am dealing with this stove. The rubber thing that sets the cooking grill on top has come out of most of the grills. Please see the picture. What is the recommended glue to put this back on. All the gorllia-glue kind seem to be not rated for this high temprature. Thank you in advance.

example source: https://www.amazon.com/high-heat-silicone-sealant/s?k=high+heat+silicone+sealant

info: https://www.hotmelt.com/blogs/blog/guide-using-high-temperature-silicone-sealants

A thin amount is recommended with the excess sliced off after it cures.

for those in a hurry: https://siliconesolutions.com/ss-650.html

Toothpicks work😀

This has been happening to me for a few years now and it’s maddening. But something that I just tried that works is pulling out on the knob as I’m adjusting the flame and letting the knob go when it gets to where I want the flame.

I find that I pull out the knob and put it back in usually works to correct the problem at least til it regresses again!

Just a follow up to my above resolution from almost a month ago. Everything is still working as it should, the drift is gone and in my case so is the odor. I am convinced the valves my range came with were faulty. I would suggest to anyone to have them replaced. In Canada the valves are $87.00 CAD each. A trained technician should be able to replace 4 valves with 1- 2 hours.

Hi Richard, Greatly appreciate your follow up on the solution you have implemented for this annoying issue I have fixed other appliances but not a gas cooktop. Are there any youtube videos you found useful that helped with replacing the valves. Thank you.

Hi Ismail, this is the one I referenced. https://youtu.be/GT8bX7uikUQ

Thanks RIchard. I watched the video. This video shows the knobs on the side but the knobs on our stove are on the top. Are the valve and other fixtures inside xpected to be similar?

Hi Ismail, I am not a technician so I really do not know. I used sub zeroes online resources to figure out the part number and then ordered them from the OEM supplier in Ontario Canada.

My thought process was that if I found I was uncomfortable with the disassembly at least I had the parts and could call a professional to do the work if necessary. My best guess at this point is that the valves likely are the same if they are experiencing the same issue but that is just me guessing. To be a clear as a disclaimer I am not a professional in regards to appliance repair. Just a handy guy figuring it out.

Thanks Richard. Appreciate that you explained your thought process. I am in the same boat. I am not an appliance guy either. I just like solving tricky issues by myself if that is possible. Will update on how it went.

@Ismail, I don’t know if you’ve already resolved the rubber pads issue with your grate but we’ve had the same issue and if you call wolf customer service they will send out a grate pad replacement package for free. It seems this is a common issue. It includes the pads and the adhesive.
Also, has anyone had an issue with the little LED type rectangular light on their knob not lighting up when the burner is turned on? The burner works fine. It’s not the knob itself either bc if I switch a knob that does light up and use it on a location that isn’t working then it still doesn’t light up. The customer service rep said it’s prob a loose connection somewhere. I don’t want to pay for service guy to fix something that isn’t really a necessary feature but was hoping there might be an easy fix I can do myself.

Hi Ma Mo, from the pictures, it looks like I would only need one collar for each burner valve... so what is the second collar in the kit used for?

There is only one collar included with each kit

A photo of kit contents may be useful to thread passersby.

@phmtran - Thank you

Has anyone successfuly changed these knobs themselves? I am thinking of ordering new knobs and relplacing them.

I have the fix!!! Sub Zero knows about this issue, but won’t talk about it. However, if you call an authorized repair and parts service, Sub Zero will cover the parts and labor free of charge! Wolf does stand behind their products, BUT you do need to call this in yourself. We finally got tired of futzing with the knobs and called, prepared to just pay to fix it if it was cheaper than a new range. The repair person examined the range and said, "Yep! Known issue. We will have this fixed in under an hour." And they did. And all the burners work great again!!!

So what parts were replaced?

All four burner valves.

Thanks for posting your experiece Virginia. Do you mind sharing which area/state you got this done. I will call the authorized dealer or SubZero but they will claim that it is not warranty issue.

Virginia, Thank you also. Could you share the firm that you used for repair. I am in Ontario as well.

Regards, K

Here is where you can look up a service company your area.

https://www.subzero-wolf.com/locator?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAq4KuBhA6EiwArMAw1DqB3qCQtZvS8qI7nqTEaE-xooVA20bTObg2a-kNCJXNlgG-VfTCTxoCuDIQAvD_BwE

Thank you for the good news and info. so in order to get this fixed free did you get them to agree to do that prior to service person coming? did service person come and diagnose the burner valves and then you had to call Wolf/ subzero? Ie whats the effective way to manage this? 1yr ago, when i called the official service people in my part of NYC they sent a tach and quoted an exorbitant fee. so i want to know the best way to negotiate this. thanks!

Full story - we have had the burner problem for years, but lived with it because we too were told it would be an exorbitant fee by the authorized appliance tech. I started this thread originally because of that frustration. The range is seven years old. A month ago, the oven stopped heating properly. We could live with the burner drift, but the oven was nonfunctional (dual fuel range) and that truly turned the range into a five grand paperweight where a perfectly functional $1,500 range would have slid in quite nicely. We called the tech company and just mentioned the burner issue on the phone in passing as a side note, but that we really needed the oven fixed. They sent the techs out the next week, and they had brought the burner valve replacements with them - we didn't ask, they just brought them. They took a look at the range and said, "oh yes, the burner valve is a known issue and Sub Zero is paying for our parts and labor. The oven problem is not covered, so that will be $X to fix for parts and labor," which we had expected. It was a pleasant surprise to get the burner valves replaced at the same time at no cost.

This is just our experience - YMMV. I was trying to help this group by posting what happened for us to close the loop on the thread, and now this is as far as I can go. Good luck to all!

Thank you so much Virginia! First, I called the local service center they had for my area (which I found online from the Wolf site) and they said it wasn’t covered bc I was out of the warranty period (2yrs). So then I called Customer Care at Wolf directly 800-222-7820 and chose option #4. Explained the issue and yes, it is a known issue! They are going to call the service center I originally called and send for approval to get the trip charge, parts, and labor covered. Again, I so appreciate you posting your experience. We have been living with this annoyance for years! Good luck to everyone else.

Hi Virginia, Thank you so much for posting your experience. I called one of the authorized service provider and got a service scheduled. The people at the front desk gave me the standard answer that I need to pay for diagnosis if it is not covered warranty item. I agreed. When the service person showed up, he looked at the problem and said he will call it in and should most probably will be covered. Next day they confirmed back, saying it will be covered. Next week, the same service person came in and changed all the 5 valves and finally the knobs work as expected. I used to be so negative on the Wolf brand but becasue of the fact that they were willing to cover the issue even after 5 years., i now have a very positive opinion of the company and the brand. Thank you again.

I found a solution that worked for me... I bought a roll of sew-in velcro (not the kind with adhesive, the type designed for sewing onto fabric) in 1/2" width. I cut a piece of the fuzzy side about 4" long and slid it down between the side of the knob and the metal frame, fuzzy side toward the knob.. It has created just enough additional friction that the knob no longer drifts, but holds the flame level as set, the way it should have had Wolf designed this properly. A cheap and effective solution that has been working for 3 months now, no problem.

that's very interesting. Is possible to get a video or photos so we can try it?

I just tightened those two screws to the left of the valve & the action is considerably better

Hi Everyone, I have been meaning to follow up on this thead. As I mentioned above I ended up replacing the valve on the "worst" burner. It was clear the valve removed was of lesser quality. The one I replaced actually leaked when the burner was off due to the valve not working properly. The new replacement was brass and the faulty one coming out was of another metal that looked like aluminum. Has Wolf ever taken responsibility for what I see as a cost cutting move that bit them in the butt? My Oven was purchaed in 2017. I just gave up and have been living with the burner knobs that move themselves until they warm up. Except of course for the replacement valve I did myself. I am planning on replacing the rest soon. I was just wondering if anyone knows of a clear admission by Wolf and possible recall at no cost.

I just tightened those two screws to the left of the valve & the action is considerably better - possible to show a couple of pictures how you did it? thank you

About a month ago I called Wolf to tell them how unhappy I was about the fact that most of my burner knobs drift and a few of the burners have to be lit with a lighter. The range is out of warranty, but they sent a repairman to do an assessment. We were able to work out a deal where we paid some of the labor and Wolf paid for the parts (the valves had to be replaced on I think 4 of the 6 burners). Also, a friend of my husband's owns an appliance store and got in the loop, so between my negotiating skills and his influence, we only wound up paying a little over $300 to get the range repaired. I'm so glad this issue is FINALLY fixed!!

Thank You Ann for this info. I will investigate myself to see what they will do for me. I also appreciate the confirmation that the issue is indeed the valve's. This may help future searchers in understanding the root cause. I also appreciate many users attempts for work arounds but an appliance of this quality should not require work arounds to get it to work properly IMHO.

@bigfishhk

These two screws were pretty loose & when tightened snugly, the valve stayed in place and no longer drifted horribly

Thank you Ann, glad you found a solution, worth $300. Sounds like your hardware store friend was helpful also. Thank you SAM for the photo. I will look into this too.