Yes, I would be concerned, more so if they are wood windows. You really dont want your framing , subfloors taking on water ang going through freezing and thawing cycles. Do you mean just the shingles are not on or the decking and or trusses as well?never heard of the stone work holding uo the roof. Builders typically try to grt the roof on and shingled as soon possible. It would be okay if they put down a good underlaymnet in the roof deck and button capped it.

Thanks, yes they are wood windows. The trusses and decking have been installed and the underlayment was installed back in early December. He says he won't put the shingles on until after the stone has been installed (which the stone guy said would most likely be spring - once the weather is consistently over freezing). There is a good amount of water intrusion, but the builder has told us for months that the subfloors will be fine (He says you could put them in a pool for 6 months and they would still be okay). Most of the subfloors are currently covered in a layer of ice. The one sliding door took on so much water that the wood swelled and split. The builder continuously tells us "everything is fine" and is now flat out ignoring our messages. We don't know what to do at this point.

@Kate, I am sorry Your are dealing with the situation like that.

"He says he won't put the shingles on until after the stone has been installed"

Can you post the exterior elevations that shows where the stone goes?

Maybe time to talk to a construction lawyer because now that he's not even responding is not good. Make sure everything is in writing.

Here are the front and rear elevations...(note: we are not doing the three dormers).

Thanks, cpartist. I've been documenting everything.

Builder/roofer needs to resecure the felt and weather proofing. If you have stone and unfinished walls above the roof, the roof finishes (shingles) typically are installed after.

An urgent "protect the windows" message a reasonable.

They should have installed a self adhesive roofing underlayment prior to the windows or used the Zip system for the roof sheathing. If the windows are water stained then he just purchased them from you. Also, make sure they use high temp underlayment under the metal roofing as well.

Best of luck.

Thank you, Jeffrey R. Grenz and Shuler Construction! Here are pictures of the underlayment they have installed. Is it okay to use so many different materials?

None of this is sounding correct to my ear. No reason the roof needs to be "On" vs. being dried in. Lots of stuff happens in construction, but saturated sub-flooring is NEVER a good idea as are wet window components. There is a reason the exteriors are clad vs. the interior being bare.

For crying out loud. Were they raiding the bottom of the bucket? If metal is going on the roof, it will require a specific underlayment that is rated for that panel/system. Would have been much easier to do this once.

I would give them a trespass on my property.

Thanks. Finally got a hold of the builder. Same old story..."windows are fine, subfloor is fine. The windows are made to take on some water. The subfloor can take on lots of water." He continues to say that in a couple months it will be so dry in the house that we will wish there was more moisture inside. We have no idea what to do.

Calling the window company direct and ask them if they will have any answers for your particular product. What I see is if there was a problem after the contractors warranty is up, would the manufacturer honor there warranty for a poor installation (which applies to everything else he is installing). It may benefit you to hire an independent licensed inspector that would make a log and take pictures for the remainder of the work. There's allot that can be "overlooked" in the finishing phase.

Thank you, Shuler Construction! I appreciate the advice!

I thinks there’s alot to look at before the finishishing phase. The water intrusion is a big concern and the moisture levels in the wood based components should be monitered before enclsosure. You got a long way to go and I would still be focused on the roof. It really needs to be water tight asap. I’d push for an approved peal and stick membrane running up the the walls . I‘d take the time to be hands on at this point or move on . you dont really need to call the window company at this point, we know what thhere going to say. Stop the water at it’s source is job #1.

I think it may be worth buying an hour of a construction attorney’s time. Please make sure to take photos to document everything now, including the damaged slider. Communicate by email with the contractor so there is a record. I’m sorry you are going through this.

Can you post a picture of the subfloor?  I'm hoping to see the brand stamp.  There are huge differences in the performance of water logged subfloor depending on which product was used.  

As a builder, getting the roof installed as quickly as possible is high priority.   I recommend looking up the exposure warranty on the several products he used for your roof underlayment.  They will all have a number of days left exposed that is acceptable if installed correctly.  Plus as others stated check feasibility of steel roofing over top of each.

Thank you! @scout - builder will only respond by phone. He says it's just easier. We still send emails first, with no response. @toddinmn the wood has gotten wet repeatedly since October. In several areas the framing lumber is now black. We are at the house daily, drying window sills, or trying to squeegee out the water that's sitting on the floor (it's all frozen now, though). @D B Here is a photo of the subfloor. I know the subfloor is Advancetech (which sounds like it's a good product). The roof underlayment is a hodgepodge of materials.

Looks like mold to me. I doubt those kiln dried 2x4's had mold from the lumber yard. when I built in harsh weather I always drills holes in certain areas to drain the water off the floor.

@Shuler Construction They've drilled holes in several spots, it just doesn't drain super well. Is there a way to get rid of the mold before they start insulation and drywall?

I recommend getting the opinion from a certified mold removal specialist that will document everything. A company would offer a free on-site visit and estimate.
The main goal before that would be to dry it in and like another poster said above to measure the moisture content. I purchased an inexpensive one off Amazon. What happens when the mold dries out is it spores out everywhere and it will smell bad. Seen it first hand. especially under the main floor joists.

I would find out what the laws in your state are for recording conversations.

What you can also do, after every conversation, is write a quick email summarizing what he said and send it to him.

Hi Kate- I hope this messy situation is behind you!