By the number of seed in picture,the landscaper short changed you. IMO any amount of straw is too much when trying to sprout seed. I cover space between rows in my garden with straw to prevent seed from sprouting.

Was the seed worked in or dusted with soil or just spread and covered with straw?

tj

I’m not sure I should’ve asked them this

It would be good to know where you live and what kind of grass seed they used.

Follow GG's always good advice and you'll find out soon about how good of a job the land scrapers did.

I live in Michigan and I’m watering twice daily.. it’s been a little cooler this week. I guess I’ll see what happens and overseed if needed. I appreciate all the advice!

It would be good to know where (in Michigan) that you live and what kind of grass seed they used. If you are in the UP then now is a fine time to redo a yard.

Regardless as you say, you have time to overseed if needed. That's why you get started early.

Kelly:

I see you started this discussion August 14. You live in Michigan.

I saw the advice from a PNW practitioner

gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)

8 hours ago

Early August - essentially the 'dog days' of summer - is possibly the worst time of year to seed a new lawn. Summer heat and sun intensity makes it almost impossible to keep the seed sufficiently moist for germination and initial establishment.

Depending on your location, mid to late September is better timing - cooler temperatures and a better chance of early fall rains to help things along.

Here in NJ, the turfgrass people at Rutgers recommend seeding to establish new athletic fields from Aug 15 to Oct 5 for NJ locations Trenton and north. They say ”earlier date is preferred”. KBG would be particularly appreciative of earlier. Trenton is pretty far south in NJ. South of Trenton, they recommend Aug 20 to Oct 10. At least they did in 2005; no new change has been issued since then.

https://njaes.rutgers.edu/pubs/download.php?strPubID=E300

The answer to tj’s question will be helpful in answering your question about sufficient seed.

Seed producers typically provide recommendations for “lbs. seed per 1000 sq ft” for new lawns right on the seed package purchased by the landscaper. I’m guessing they seeded a mixture of turfgrass species. If not, the recs. in the Rutgers publication will be of interest.

rifis, you have to be extremely careful about extrapolating university lawn care advice outside the immediate area of the university. Michigan may as well be in Australia as far as Rutgers suggestions go.

I edited this (11 times). Spring planting is discouraged in the N.E. because of cooler soil temperatures. What you want are daytime temps in the 60 - 75 range---whenever that occurs as you're headed toward fall.

This from Pennington seed:

"WHY FALL IS BEST FOR COOL-SEASON GRASSES

Several distinct advantages make fall the best time to plant cool-season grass seed. In early autumn, the soil is still warm from months of summer sun. This combination of warm soil, moderate daytime temperatures and cool evenings encourages fast germination and establishment of newly sown cool-season grass seed.

Cool-season grass seed germinates best when soil temperatures reach 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. This roughly corresponds to daytime air temperatures in the 60°F to 75°F range. An inexpensive soil thermometer, available at garden stores and online retailers, can help eliminate the guesswork.

The farther north you live, the earlier cool fall temperatures and ideal planting times come."

I would never use straw as a mulch. I think grass seed will grow in it especially since in this case they used so little. I guess they figured if we don't use very much seed we don't need to cover it with much straw either. My aversion to straw is that once the grass is growing you can't get it out the lawn. You can get some out but there's always some showing. Whether you rake or run a dethatcher thru it it will show for a long time.

There should have been 6 pounds per 1000 square feet of seed used. If you spread a big handful of seed by tossing it. Then compare what you put down to what they put down you'll get idea of how much they skimped.

I would recommend you go to a nursery and ask it they sell seed by the pound. If they do that will usually indicate that they have good choice of seed for your area. In my area we use a mix called "Penn State Mix". It's mostly perennial rye with some Kentucky Bluegrass and some fine fescue. i doubt you'll find that mix, but they'll likely have something similar. But go with what they recommend.

You'll only be able to see the perennial ryegrass seed in the mix. So there'll be a lot more seed than what you can see. That could also be the case with what was done. But judging by the amount of straw' I doubt it. The ryegrass will sprout in about a week. The Kentucky bluegrass and the fescue in about 3 weeks.

But do not go to a big box store and buy a bag of "grass seed". I say that because you don't want a mixture that contains seed varieties that will guarantee that some of the seed in that bag will grow anywhere on earth. If that's the case then you're paying for seed varieties that are inappropriate for your area. In Michigan Bermuda Grass is a noxious weed and that will be in the mix. You'll have a noxious weed all thru your property and the entire neighborhood. You'll be infamous.

Covering the seed with a compost, as suggested, is a great idea. I'd suggest Mushroom Compost likely sold by that same dealer as the seed seller. It's sold by the cu yard and they'll deliver for a small fee. $45 here. I'd use a half inch to an inch. In the spring here i know that grass seed will grow thru two inches but I never tried that in the late summer/fall and never tried it in your area. Remember that an inch or so of mushroom compost will improve your soil for many years. You may need less fertilizer. You'll know if the lawn needs mowed a couple times a week.

Landscaper said they use Penningtons grass seed

I live in Missouri and hubby says not to plant grass seed in any month without an ”r.” So that lets out August. But since you’re in Michigan, your mileage may vary on that. 😁

And, here in Missouri, nearly everyone uses straw as mulch on grass seed.

I really signed on to say you MUST keep the seed damp/wet continuously (as stated above) for at least 10 days after sowing. Do NOT let it dry out during that time.

Hopefully Kelly takes care in extrapolating, dchall.

I’m interested to see that MSU considers late September too late for “the best time to seed your lawn” in Michigan. Unlike in NJ, where the window extends into Oct.

https://www.canr.msu.edu/resources/establishing_a_new_lawn_using_seed_e2910

Step 1. Timing: Late summer and early fall plantings produce the best results in Michigan. The best time to seed your lawn is from August 15 to September 15.

Depending on the answer to tsugajunkie‘s question, the amount of seed put down may be quite adequate.

Kelly - The source of my seeds uses Pennington Seed. Their web site will probably lead you to a local dealer.

It’s been 2 and a half weeks and here is what I have. Is it safe to say they didn’t use enough grass seed? I’ve been watering it twice a day

what you have is what I would expect for seed and straw in the summer months. It's why we either do sod (if budget allows) or hydroseed.

Everyone saying not to use straw - work in the landscape business in different parts of the country and you'll find different practices. The US is a big place with lots of climates.

I’d say your landscaper didn’t use enough seed OR straw.

... and didn't spread it very well.