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Window Header Leak / Beam Damage

4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago

I have an issue with a window that is leaking and has been leaking since shortly after we moved in. Frustrating because our inspector missed that there was a ton of caulk clearly trying to stop a leak. I had an exterior company come out about 4 years ago and they discovered that both stacked windows didn't have any flashing and water damage to the "Queen Beam" I believe they called it. They said I would need a contractor to repair that and so I was hoping if the leak could be repaired that it would be fine. They added flashing and new J-Channels etc. so I thought it would be all set.

However, the leak turned out not to be fixed from the work they did. It doesn't leak with every rain, it needs to be pretty heavy and wind driven against that side of the house. It's confusing because the bottom window is the only one that leaks but the beam damage was between the two windows so they said it was the top window that was actually letting the water in.

I had been putting off getting it looked at again but we are putting a nursery close to that area of the house so it is bothering me even more. I had a contractor that did some work for me before, come out and he did a garden hose test to try to pinpoint where the leak was but we weren’t getting anything. I tried for longer the next day and using the ladder got to the top of the top window and it seemed like that was when I was able to get some to leak thru.

The contractor told me the damage wasn’t enough to worry about but I’m thinking these pictures are also 4 years old so it could be worse now even tho they put plywood over it so hopefully that is protecting it some too.

I also tried doing an isolation tests by hooking up one of those Halloween/theatre fog machines to the header but it didn’t really work.

So now I was thinking just replacing both windows would be the best way to be done with it once and for all but the first quote I just got from that contractor was for $8k which seemed crazy to me even for pretty large windows.

I am attaching some pictures from when the exterior co had the siding off and you can see the damage as well as what they did to try and fix it. Then a picture of the inside of the bottom window where you can see where it is leaking where the drywall is damaged.

My questions for anyone willing to offer their advice:

  • Would replacing both windows likely be the best way to fix the leak once and for all?
  • Since most signs seem to be pointing to the top window being the issue, and it being smaller, would it make sense to try to replace that one first to see if it stops the leaking?
  • Would renting one of those thermal imaging cameras likely help to see where the water is coming in?
  • Recommendations on types of companies to get help from? Window companies seem to just want to replace all your windows. Exterior companies don’t always do repairs, and general contractors maybe don’t have the best window prices?

-Any other thoughts on ways to repair it or what is likely to be the issue?

I really appreciate the help this issue has really been weighing on me to hopefully get it finally figured out.








Comments (11)

  • PRO
    4 years ago
    last modified: 4 years ago

    I'd suggest comparing the way your job is being done to the Weather Resistant Barrier's (WRB) and flashing tape manufacturer's instructions.

  • PRO
  • PRO
    4 years ago

    +1. There is more wrong with that wall than just the window.

  • PRO
    4 years ago

    The back of my claw hammer would have told whether or not that 5-stud post bottom needed replacement.

  • 4 years ago

    Thank you for your comments. Comparing to the video it looks like all my guys did was put house wrap and the outside flashing tape over it and possibly in the wrong order? Ideally I should find someone to remove and reinstall the current windows the correct way?

    This would include house wrap underneath with a flap at the top to fold down later, flex wrap on the bottom, caulk the back of the window when installing, then flashing tape all around, and secure the top flap down?

    Or get new windows making sure they install similar to the video?

  • PRO
    4 years ago

    "Comparing to the video it looks like all my guys did was put house wrap and the outside flashing tape over it and possibly in the wrong order? Ideally I should find someone to remove and reinstall the current windows the correct way?

    This would include house wrap underneath with a flap at the top to fold down later, flex wrap on the bottom, caulk the back of the window when installing, then flashing tape all around, and secure the top flap down?Comparing to the video it looks like all my guys did was put house wrap and the outside flashing tape over it and possibly in the wrong order? Ideally I should find someone to remove and reinstall the current windows the correct way?



    Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes.


    "Or get new windows making sure they install similar to the video?"


    Not a bad idea.

  • 4 years ago

    It doesn't sound like the actual window units are to blame - so I don't know why you'd want to spend the money on only 2 new windows for the house if windows are not on your radar.

  • PRO
    4 years ago

    This is a flashing & weather barrier issue. Need someone there smart enough to get all the layers & sealant in the correct order.


    If its wind driven, water could be traveling up & over or sideways around that sized flashing, depending on local wind pressure, etc. 9" or 12" wide flashings maybe needed. It may be pushing up over the top window flange between the flashing & window.


    There should be some local knowledge and/or a window guy who's had this experience.

  • 4 years ago

    Anyone have any recommendations in the Chicago area that would be interested in reinstalling these two windows? Having a hard time finding someone that doesn’t just want to sell me new windows.

  • PRO
    4 years ago

    Most good contracting shops will run from an application where they are fixing the work of someone else. You are going to need to look at a smaller (more likely a 1 or 2 person handyman) to fix something like that.

  • PRO
    4 years ago

    If you want to make real money contracting, run to the jobs others are running from. I love it when potential customers say "I've had 5 other guys say this can't be done."