Buck rub (deer).

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/5494021/don-t-forgot-to-put-your-tree-protectors-on#n=32

'Is this likely to damage the cambium of the tree. Should I be doing something?'

Depending on how much of the inner bark is damaged, the tree should heal over (encapsulate) in the next couple of years. But say if more than 30 or 40% of the area/perimeter of the trunk is damaged it might be a better idea to replace the tree.

Any kind of tree with a small straight pole like trunk should be assumed to be just too good to pass up by bucks during the rut. And needing therefore to be protected by an enclosure. Deer in my area also tend to strip the leaves from rose family trees (such as Malus and Prunus) from head height down. And may sometimes rear up onto their back legs to continue the dining above head height.

ooof. That is too bad. Dang deer!!

Yes, if the other side of the trunk, not seen in the picture, is as bad as the side you can see in the picture, I wouldn't waste my time with it and replace it. Maybe your homeowner's insurance will compensate. Depending on the deductible.

Ditto, its the straight smooth trunks.

I have had deer damage on A LOT of trees in my yard. My Prairie Fire crabapple is languishing on from similar damage a decade ago. Mine may of been deeper but less far around.

My Liriodendron tulipifera pictured was damaged last year or yhe year before and is recovering.

You'll find out in the spring if this killed the tree. Sometimes plants recover fine. Sometimes the trunk dies.

Instead of fencing in the tree, I've found getting some rebar and pounding into the ground a few inches from the trunk works also. Not only does it make rubbing less attractive, if they rub, they push the rebar into the tree and rub that instead of the trunk.

Should I be doing something? Resist the temptation to try to fix the damage - no sprays, wraps, paint or whatever should be placed on the damaged trunk. It will heal itself unless the damage is too severe.

i used 4 inch corrugated drain pipe with holes around my young trees for the first few years of there lives.. until there was bark maturation beyond the smooth baby bark stage ..

bottom line.. protect now.. and then wait and see how things work out next spring.. and more importantly.. in the heat of summer.. when moisture needs to go up and down the tree thru the cambium later.. the vascular system of the tree ..thats when we will really know if its functional ...

ken

some pix examples here : https://duckduckgo.com/?q=4+inch+drain+pipe+on+tree+trunk+guard&t=ffcm&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images

slew of ideas here: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=tree+trunk+protector+guard&t=ffcm&iar=images&iax=images&ia=images

The following addresses the 3 things you most likely need to protect your new trees from:

https://willowridgegardencenter.com/how-to-protect-young-trees-in-winter/

My crabapple 10 years after

This year's attack. I thought the branches went low enough

Were the green stakes there before the rub? Or are you adding them now?

People in town have told me they don't like the looks of varmint protection on their trees.

It's a free country, right?

Thank you everyone. Do you think it’s a good idea to apply a sealant on the open wound. I found this product on Amazon

no, don't waste your money.

University tests have proven that sealants actually inhibits the tree from healing.

It's best that the wound stays dry and open to the air.

Just put a tree tube on it and be done with it.

I like the white corrugated tubes. They're cheap and stay cool when the sun beats on them.

No, do not try to fix the damage. No sealants, gunk, goop, paint, etc. Trees heal themselves.

Choose a tree tube with holes - I like the corrugated drainage pipe myself.

i will triple the two above comments...

if God had meant you to slather tar on trees.. he would have.. oh.. just dont.. its so wrong ... lol ..

trees have been around for millions of year.. being damage.d.. recovering.. dying.. and nothing you can pay money for will change how a tree takes care of itself ..

just protect from further damage.. asap .. and see what happens as i said yesterday ...

it would just be money spent to make you feel good.. its of no value to the tree ...

and the tree is stressed.. not hungry.. fert is not a response.. especially this time of year... let the tree go dormant.. not get all juiced up on uppers ... no tree crack.. lol...

ken

Has no one but me noticed that the tree is telephone poled? Where is the root flare?

You are right. It was a B&B planting this past spring. The rootball came without the root flair exposed. The landscaper installed it. Now I worry if I should expose the root flair before the onset of winter or wait for spring. Any suggestion?

Here I tried to uncover it. See the pictures attached. Was this done right? Or do I need to expose it more ?

Pictures after exposing the root flair

im tempted to tell you to go another inch or two..

winter is irrelevant in regard to this..

this is what you are looking for: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=root+flare&iax=images&ia=images

ken

Thanks Ken. Will do as you suggest. I have another Japanese Stewartia but planted last spring. Only 1.5 inch caliper. It also seems sticking out like a pencil. When I tried to expose the root flair- I find a dense mat of fibrous roots. Is the root flare buried deeper and I need to cut through the mat. Or is it that small trees haven’t yet developed a root flare yet