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allyde

Question about heat tolerances for Pex in HWBB system

3 years ago

I have pex tubing in my hot water baseboard system. A few months ago I had a new boiler installed, and I noticed that the new boiler runs water up to 180 degrees through the system. The boiler that it replaced ran at roughly 160 degrees max.


This weekend I happened to notice that the pex tubing says it's rated for 180 degrees. So I did some googling around and now I've managed to concern myself...


If I am understanding what I am reading correctly, the 180 limit may be (?) referring to continuous use - so presumably that means some sort of system that is pushing hot water through the pipe at 180 degrees 24/7/365?


During the majority of the heating year, the system gets the house up to temp and then shuts off for periods of time. (The house is newer and well-insulated and holds heat nicely.) However there are a handful of days every winter when it is very cold and very windy where it certainly runs more than it is shut off.


Is this a problem? Should I drop the temp of the boiler down to ~175 degrees, or am I worrying needlessly? Thank you!

Comments (5)

  • 3 years ago

    Specifications ("tolerances") invariably include a safety factor. You should be fine at 180 but you can always try it at 160-170 - if the old boiler kept your home warm at 160, then you should be fine.

    The historical problems with PEX were mostly related to the connections rather than the tubing itself. These have long been fixed.

    Ally De thanked sktn77a
  • 3 years ago

    Thank you. I agree with you. The only thing holding me back from lowering the temp is I do see/feel a difference. The heat coming from the baseboard heaters feels warmer and the system seems to run for a shorter period of time. I love the feeling of extra warmth....how much of that is psychological is up for debate. 😄

  • 3 years ago

    You should speak with your heating contractor for verification and clarification. Also keep in mind that your boiler system might have an ‘Outdoor Reset’ function that automatically turns the supply water temperature down when the outdoor temperate rises and only uses 180˚F at Design Temperature. Water that leaves the boiler at 180˚F looses heat as it travels through the system, when the pipes are not insulated and the return water can be 10˚F to 20˚F lower than the supply side temperature.

    Speak to your contractor, ask about outdoor reset, have them explain how your piping system is configured and what else you should know about it.

    IMPO

    SR

    Ally De thanked fsq4cw
  • 3 years ago
    last modified: 3 years ago

    If 160 degrees worked fine with the old boiler and there were no other changes, there should be no reason why the setting should be any higher with a new one. Setting it too high uses more energy than needed, wastefully.

    Setting it at the max sounds like a Neanderthal HVAC tech practice - "no one ever calls to complain during heating season that their house warms up quickly and easily maintains the temperature setting", only when it doesn't. But they don't pay the energy bills. The same dumb attitude appears concerning oversizing equipment.

    If the temperature setting is easily changed, I'd try to drop it and see how that works. Stuff like this isn't rocket science.

    HVAC techs tend to do the same thing with water heater temperature settings for new equipment, in my experience. The first thing I do after having a new heater installed is to drop the temperature setting.

    Ally De thanked Elmer J Fudd
  • 3 years ago

    Thanks Elmer. I think you are right. I am going to lower the boiler temp. It is an easy thing to try and see what happens. The old one had no trouble keeping the house warm at 160, although on the coldest days of the year it certainly ran a lot longer - shocking, I know. LOL.