I do like it. You really think it is dark enough next to the almond floor? And you don’t see any green in it??

If your floors are close to Softer Tan than I definately think there will be enough contrast. I don’t see green. Anew Gray and Dovetail are both in the yellow hue family at 85/87°, Softer Tan sits at 86° so these all belong to that tight hue family. I have other suggestions for wall color with Dovetail on the vanity, but they’re all considerably lighter.

You’re the only one who can view these colors in person, in your lighting next to your tiles. Post pictures so we can see if they’re working. If something’s off, it’ll give me a direction of where to go.

@Amy Lepow here are the other colors that work well with both Dovetail and Anew. Doesn’t hurt to pick up these chips to see if you end up liking any for the walls or vanity. High Sierra, Modern Gray and Kestrel White may not contrast with your floors enough, but you won’t know until you see them together in your lighting. I wouldn’t rule anything out until you see it in person.

I just came across this, Dovetail on the walls with a lighter vanity. Beautiful color although I think color this deep on the walls is better suited for a powder room, but figured I’d share it because I know you’re thinking about dark walls.

This has been a process and not fun at all. But thank you everyone for your advice. Especially Beth H. and Texmax13! I really appreciate your help!!! I made one last change 🤦‍♀️but now I love everything. Starting tomorrow.

@Amy Lepow did you change both tiles again or just the shower floor?

Texmax13 just the shower floor

Having had those stone floors in a shower before, I have to tell you that they are an absolute pain to clean. But if they make your heart sing, go for it! The one thing I will say is that dark brown walls in a bathroom are generally a no from me ... for what should be obvious reasons. :)

JP L thanks for your thoughts. Several of my friends have them and they love them. I’ll do my best since I have my heart set in them. The paint is not dark brown. It’s more of a medium tan brown. And it’s a big room

Is there a product you can put in the rocks to make them easier to clean? @Beth H: ?

“On the rocks”

RedRyder the woman at the tile shop told me this is great.

Still not crazy about Stone Lion, but here are some considerations for your vanity with that wall color. Some of these colors are only available in their Emerald line, but you have to use high quality paint when refinishing a vanity anyhow.

Here are some whites to consider for your trim, doors and ceiling. You could also use it on the vanity if you wanted to go white.

Decided on pure white

So far, so good. The paint is looking beautiful although I could have even gone a little darker. Now I need to find a vanity light fixture. Any websites I should look at? Nothing is hitting me. Did you ever hear of goinglighting.com? I think it should be 5 lights. My vanity is 60”

@Amy Lepow does your vanity have a light over each sink or just one light? Can you post an updated picture where the vanity area is seen?

Texmax13 my vanity has one light.

Will you be replacing the sink faucets?

Yes I already bought brushed nickel faucets

That stone cleaner is fine (I use StonePro). get a squirt bottle and put it in that w/water. It's concentrated. Never use bleach products on your stone floor. it will pit the stone and the grout.

Amy, before you install those stone mosaics, take a rag and a sealer (I use the aquamix stone enhancing sealer) and seal the TOPS (make sure not to drip down the sides) of the stone. sit and watch tv while you do it because it will take 10-15 mins. follow directions of sealer (I think apply, wait a few minutes and buff off any excess)

What this will do is make the stone look better, but prevent any grout or thinset from getting into the tiny fissures of the stone and 'whitewashing' it out.

basically it's the difference between this (no sealer ahead of grouting. you see how the grout is in all the tiny cracks on the surface? )

and this one. no grout is trapped and the stone is clean and smooth looking.

For this look^, use this sealer (will make it look like it does when it's wet)

If you prefer the natural, dull look how the stone looks dry, use this one. it won't alter the color.

I have done many of these stone installs. I know exactly how hard it is to clean up grout/thinset if they aren't sealed. trust me on this. seal the tops!

Also, make sure the tile setter places these sheets in an offset pattern to avoid those grid marks: I despise installers who do this:

Around the edges and drain he will have to place the stone one by one. I'm telling you this now so you'll know.

Also make sure he knows when grouting, not to leave any low spots. water will collect in those low 'divots' and discolor the grout over time.

For example, you see this floor? The grout is way too low. During clean-up he got too zealous w/the sponge and removed too much of the grout.

water is going to sit in all of those low spots and turn this white grout brown w/time

Often during grout clean-up, the tile guy uses too much water and applies too much pressure while wiping.

Compare it to this one where the grout is completely flush w/the stone. this is a beautiful tile job.

See how all of the single stones along the wall are placed close to the tile, no large gaps or large swaths of grout? Also, no grid marks, the stone around the drain have been placed one at a time and cut where needed, no divots in the grout and there is a steady decline toward the drain to facilitate drainage. Make sure you have that slope from the wall to the drain.

Also, NO GROUT EVER in the joint between wall/floor, or the vertical corners. (or in the niche) All of these joints need 100% Silicone caulk in the same color as your grout.

Show your tile guy everything I've written, if you want. tell him this is what you expect.

Beth H. Thanks for this info. I know where I bought the tile she gave me a sealer. She asked if I wanted it to look natural or wet. So I have that. I want to make sure I understand. I use that sealer on the tops of the stones before he lays them and the grouts them and then he will seal them again? So much to know! I’m glad I “met” you all!!!!!

@Amy Lepow not sure what type of lighting you like, so here are some different options. Many of these are also sold on home depot and lamps plus, so definately price shop if you see something you like. There are white and clear shades as well as some that have alabaster stones set into resin. I think most if not all of these can be hung with the shade up or down. Just not sure of your personal style or what direction you want to go.

yes. seal the tops ONLY. don't let it drip down the sides or the grout won't adhere.

he can seal again after clean up. (which will be much easier w/the pre-sealed stone) follow directions.

bring up the other points I've mentioned too.

Towel bar, towel ring, both, or none?? Please give me your thoughts!

My master bath has both and we use them both, but it’s really about functionality and layout. You’ve mentioned it’s a large space, so I’m assuming you have room for both. I haven’t seen the whole space, but one thing i don’t like is a towel bar hung over a toilet.

So where exactly would you put them?

Will you post a picture of each wall so we can get a better idea of the layout?

I didn’t take any of the toilet little wall. But it’s across from the vanity.

I would for sure do a towel ring, possibly a towel bar.

and I would likely add one or two hooks.

example for hook:

Beth H. I sealed the tops of the pebbles. I hope I did it right!!! Thanks for telling me. I’d never have thought to do it.

Here is the finished shower. Shower door guy is coming today. I absolutely LOVE it!!!! Thanks everyone. Will post another pic when it’s all finished

Ooops. Here is the photo.

Texmax13 and Beth H. the shower door guy was here. originally i wanted a sliding door because i thought a hinged door opening from left to right, when open overlapped the bathroom door a couple inches. so i asked him about having it open from right to left. But all the pictures i see it seems ok to have it overlap the bathroom door. Is that right? i know the door will be closed…I just thought it should open closest to the shower faucet. i dont know what to tell him. What do you think?

It's fine to have a door that swings open toward your other door. they will never be open at the same time.

shower and paint color look great Amy.

once you paint that yellowish vanity, the pieces will really fall into place.

don't forget some type of greenery or orchids or something around the deck of the tub,

towel bar somewhere over there, orchid, what do you think of a ceramic stool w/soaps/something on top? maybe placed under that one towel bar or near the steps?

Home Goods carry lots of varieties.

maybe a hanging plant in the corner of the window? Perfect spot for them.

the wall over the tub, maybe some greenery or some shelves w/plants? art too?

maybe a small tray between the two sinks w/some type of accessories?

when you paint the vanity, fill the holes w/wood epoxy and sand and prime (first) Then go on amazon and get a contractors pack of new handles (pulls)

[https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X338ZY6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X338ZY6/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0)

something like these look better w/the new light and tile

Thanks Beth H. for your suggestions. Ok so I just came from Home Goods. I can’t find tan and gray towels I like. I’ll keep looking. I can’t do a hanging plant…I have no green thumb and I usually kill them. 🤪 I don’t need a towel bar above the tub…nobody ever uses the damn thing! I do like art and an orchid or something. And shelves too. Do towels have to match bath mats? Question. Is the reason all the pix I see of the shower doors opening from the middle out (right to left) because there won’t be hinges in the middle? And you’re sure about having the door open that way?

Beth H. I also read all the vanity painting links you sent. They’re all so different. Which do you think is best? Sanding? Non sanding?

Re: Shower door - they have hinges that can open the door either way. You can also request a “half-moon” cut out near the faucets so you can stick your hand in to turn on the water without getting wet.

I didn’t read the links Beth shared, but when I painted all of my kitchen and bath cabinets the process was: clean, sand, prime, lightly sand, paint; lightly sand, paint. And I didn’t use regular wall paint, I used a special enamel.

Beth H. thanks. shower door, no not swinging inside the shower. i mean the hinge on the left (towards center of door), and handle on the right near wall…OR hinge near wall and the handle in the middlee.

https://chrissymarieblog.com/painting-bathroom-cabinets

here's another good link for how to

She has some good instructions for cleaning and prepping prior to painting

Like this (these are frameless

I found one w/the handle way over to the left

invisible handle and frameless

if you like the ORB finish:

handle/towelbar

do these pics help?

Oh, for the plant in the corner by the window, just get a pothos ivy! they're hardy. water when the leaves start to droop. that's all you have to do. (I'd prob transplant it after you buy it into a nicer pot. (with holes in the bottom) This will really make a huge diff in the overall look

get a nice macrame hanger (amazon) and a hook you screw into the ceiling. super easy. when it's time to water, use a water can, or just remove from hood and water. let drain over the tub drain.

right here.

https://poshpennies.com/best-easy-indoor-hanging-plants/

@Beth H: Tell me why you don’t like SW Emerald for cabinets?

And how dark should I go for the vanity? Urbane Bronze? Porpoise? Gauntlet Gray? Something more dark gray?

Here are some options to consider, I find it helpful to see things side by side. Gauntlet Gray, Library Pewter, Porpoise and Urbane Bronze. All of them work well with Stone Lion.

Red, I painted furniture w/Emerald once and did not like it. there are much better options that are easier to work with. General finishes milk paint is very nice on wood furniture. BM Advance lays down a better finish. even the ProClassic is better to work with.

Amy, I'd either go darker, (these two listed below are a bit more bronze-y than Urbane bronze) or, do a very creamy white/almond. You need some pattern too. How about a similar run like one of these, or taupe/bronze/almond towels?

I think a plant on the vanity w/tall stems, maybe a wicker basket w/folded towels over around the tub, along w/ a tall green plant in the corner would finish off the look.

https://www.kylieminteriors.ca/the-best-paint-colours-for-an-almond-bathroom/

check out the link above. Check talks about working w/almond colors in the bathroom.

This one is Kingsport Gray on the vanity. It works w/almond and prob w/your stone.

Darker colors like Urbane bronze (which has more brown) and IronOre which leans a little more charcoal w/brown undertone

I really like some of these too

you can pick out one of the bluer color in the pebbles if you like. it would be a nice contrast color
MtEtna should be a perfect match to that color in you pebbles.

Thanks Beth H. I’m gonna get all those swatches and look at them. Is there anything cool you know if to do with leftover pebbles??

Lots of projects.

you can make a shower mat from them.

or a placemat for plants, welcome mat, or a mat for shoes.

one by one use them in a garden as a mosaic (you set them in mortar) like a mandala or other design

(( i've actually tried this in my own yard. it's a lot of tedious work but looks really good. I just never got around to finishing it! You can see where I also did the glass tile mosaic designs on the cement border curb. another great idea that takes time!

make a table top w/them

decorate stair risers.

Beth H. Wowwwww!