since its not circling like it was potted too long.. im thinking you should just put the mulch back and forget about it.. can tree boy do that???... lol.. probably not... i couldnt ...

i have cut one end before.. and just left for a year or two.. and then cut off the other end..

you dont show the whole tree.. but i presume it is big enough.. and healthy enough.. to lose a little root mass.. it will most likely reroot just above the cut... and get on with life...

ken

I’d leave it be given the direction its going. Even if it abrades the other root, roots often graft to one another.

tj

After more digging (pun intended), I found Larix l. root systems are quite intriguing.

Even if moss or windblown sand build up over the root crown, the tree will send out adventitious roots above the crown to get the required air and nutrients it requires.

And if the root system ends up getting too deep, the tree will actually abandon the old root system and live/regrow on the new roots, expanding on those. Amazing!

Thanks, for bringing up the root grafting part tj, it jogged my memory about something I noticed last year.

Not the best picture but you can see the red and yellow arrows pointing at 2 separate roots growing alongside of each other on the left side of the trunk.

Now the blue arrow is pointing to the root that, this year, has the errant root growing over it, but if you look, you can't see the errant root back then in May of 2022. It may be out of sight idk.

Now if you look at this year's root picture, those two roots that were growing alongside of each other last year, are today, melded together into one root.

I also notice another errant root (lower center of next picture) originating from somewhere under the trunk, going in the opposite way from the other errant root.

So, I'm not going to be concerned about this, now that I know this tree is capable of 'Root Grafting' itself. I couldn't find any info on this trees root grafting ability online but the proof is in the pudding, and this tree should grow into a nice specimen over time.

Thanks everyone for the help! :-)

:^)

I'd cut that blatantly overlying root in a New York minute. Prb'ly the other one too.

Thanks, beng!

That is the other option I'm considering.

But if I do any root cutting, I'll wait until dormancy.

That way (1) it will be less of a shock to the tree,

(2) it will avoid it having to endure our windy (spring & fall) seasons with missing roots (not to mention the branches will be bare when dormant, so less wind resistance)

and (3) spring is when new roots form/grow, so the tree will begin adding stabilization to itself, continuing on into the summer season.

I still have time to think about it.

A gnarly, unique looking root flare is far more interesting (to me) than a boring 'garden-variety' style. lol

I'll post back with the results.

Thanks for the input. ;-)

9-16-2023:

Got some time today so did a little digging.

Someone say it isn't so.

I'll post the pictures and give a chance for the comments to steer me in the right direction.

I will be cutting some roots, but some experienced advice would make this less painful.

With more soil removed, this is what the root in the first picture above looks like.

I think for sure this one will be removed.

Now the third picture from earlier, where the two roots melded together? The one root went the right was (west), the other to the north instead of west.

I think this one will have to go too. It's pressing on a normal root as it passes by the flare.

There appears to be some shenanigans going on below where the root went north. I'll have to dig more to see what's going on there.

Another view where the root that went north. So it appears I have at least 3 main roots that primarily go in the right direction, it's just there's so many errant roots to deal with.

The one that went over the main root we looked at earlier appears to be coming over and is partially melded to the root you see on right of root flare, where they both go down into the ground. Thinking I'll cut it flush with the side of the other root and not try to peel it back.

Another view of the same 'over the top' root. And the second one that was questionable that's going straight south (towards the viewer, going down) is the only one I can see that's supporting the tree on that side.

Now some may say that this is a irreparable mess and it may be true.

But it's here, alive and in the ground so I'll try to fix it and live with the results.

Let the comments begin. ;-)

I did more digging in the shenanigans area, and I think it's not as bad as it could've been.

#1 arrow is pointing at the errant root. It protrudes from the trunk at this area and turns 90d and goes between some roots and shows itself again where #2 arrow is pointing. Then turns again and come around where #3 arrows showing it going over the main root.

#4 & #5 arrows are more errant roots but where they originate doesn't matter, because they'll have to go not matter what.

The next picture you can see that the two long narrow roots marked #2 on this picture, originate from root #1, so once #1 is cut, those two will be eliminated along with it.

Not sure what to do with the root numbered #3 in this picture, I could leave it to stabilize the tree for a while until new roots form in the spring. Then again I'll most likely stake the tree, for a while anyways, even though the tree is fairly stable the way it is, and the roots I'll cut shouldn't affect that.

Overall, the other side of the roots don't look too bad other than the 'Gone north' root that I'll cut also.

The tree did seem a little bit unstable when I flexed it and that's what prompted me to investigate but should stabilize more as time goes on and the 'good' roots establish even further.

I'll post up some pictures after I get this done in a next week or so. Our trees are starting to turn Fall colors so it shouldn't be long before the Tamarak begins to turn.

Comment still welcome. ;-)

Excellent job of exposing the root-crown. Actually not a bad situation as the culprit roots are pretty much exposed to being removed. Root surgeries I've done on occasion needed the tree to be supported 'cause it had lost some support from the removals. After you're done you should be able to feel if the tree needs temporary support.

Thanks, beng!

Only the two larger roots need to be cut and they don't seem to be 'support roots'.

And I'm thinking that that we're so late in the season and the offending roots don't appear to be a major portion of the feeder root system, I might just do it tomorrow and be done with it.

I'm watering the tree as we speak to get it hydrated.

With hot and windy conditions forecast tomorrow, I took a few hours today to get this done.

First cut was the forked root that circled around the from the opposite side. One cut and a couple snips and that root was gone from that side.

I cut right where it was melded into another root far so far I thought I'd do more damage trying to dig it out than just cut it there.

Next cut was the 'gone north' root. The reason I cut that one was it allowed me to reach through with my snippers and make a clean cut, next to the trunk, of the first root that was cut.

Now with those cuts made I can deal with the rest. The fresh cut seen above the tangled mess is the other end of the first circling root. I got a nice flush cut and now that root is disconnected from the base of the tree. Next, we'll get to that tangled mess below. ;-)

I cut the roots that were going away from the tangled mess and found out that those roots were attached to the trunk in a different spot, hidden by the tangled mess.

I left that chunk of circling root, as I said was embedded into the root it was over (lower left bulging out from under the other root)

So all done. There may be more knotted root portions that go under the root mass,

The root that the circling root was embedded into, looked like it had some problems, I maybe should've cut that one too but I feel I took care of the obvious major problems and didn't want to get too carried away here. ;-)

There wasn't much material removed but enough to prevent future problems when the trunk got bigger, and the circling root stated digging into it.

Got my pail of native soil out and reburied the root flare.

Added more mulch and watered it down good.

I did stake it in the middle with a couple of poles and stretchy straps, at least until the needles fall. The tree felt almost as sturdy as before the root cuts, but windy days are forecast ahead so why take that chance. :-)

:o)

Very nicely done -- should bookmark this thread for those asking about root-surgeries. I prb'ly should have done a better job like yours on one of my longleaf pines, as it eventually fell down at 25 ft tall because root girdling had prevented a root from growing in the direction that would anchor it from the prevailing NW wind.

Thanks, beng.

Sorry to hear about the pine.

I almost let this one go but glad I looked into it. ;-)

A couple years ago, one of my grown from seed Ostrya virginiana's rocked in the ground badly.

That was spring and the buds were just swelling/breaking.

Cut a few roots and today that tree is as solid as can be.

I went around the garden and lo and behold, I have my version of what looks like an errant root as it likely crosses over other roots further down. From what I have been reading in this thread, I should cut it off. If I do it, then I will do it next spring. And no, I am not going to dig down, good heavens!

It's your tree. You're free to do what you want.

From what I can see in your picture, it appears there might be more going on with that one than you might think.

What kind of tree is it?

It's a presumably Pinus strobus rootstock for a Pinus strobus scion. Well yeah, an errant root that does not encircle may be harmless (that's also stated in this thread) but what else might be wrong?

That's a good question.

Whoever planted it, would know what the root ball looked like and what if anything, was done to remedy issues that were present at that time.

But, just by looking at the picture, I can see what's possibly roots that have been circling around, inside of a pot, indicating the plant was pot bound or root bound at some point in time.

Now if that is true, and nothing was done to correct the problems, most likely those roots have continued to grow in an unnatural manner, becoming woodier as time goes on.

That's all I can tell you with the information given.

Just FYI: This link is not about dwarf varieties of conifers but relays the same idea about roots.

https://www.youtube.com/UM pot bound trees:

It's me who did the planting, back in May. I just did the usual loosening and spreading of the root ball with a 3-prong hand cultivator, and I did not notice anything wrong at the time. However, earlier today when I saw the sideways rather than radially growing root, it reminded me of this thread. Anyway, I have until spring to decide what to do, maybe nothing.

It's impossible to tell anything without a proper inspection.

But like you say, if everything was fine at planting time, there shouldn't be that much difference just since May?

I've read that watering only at the base during dry weather is one cause of roots not wanting to leave the small area around the trunk. That may have been what happened to my O. virginiana.

Best wishes.

bill

Roots are geotropic - they grow away from the center unless blocked by a barrier. Such as pot walls - the reason for nursery grown plants having deformed roots is failure to pot on in a timely manner.

Problems with Planting Trees – The Garden Professors™

9-18-2024:

fwiw: The larix did fine since the root pruning.

I removed the stakes right away in the spring because the tree seemed so solid.

Had good growth again this season. Peace of mind knowing it's been fixed. :o)

Good update. My Japanese larch also had bad root-girdling that I should have addressed before planting. It got tall and wind gusts blew it to an angle. Then did some major root cutting around the base out of necessity. Tilted angle still there at base, but it has long recovered and straight at 40 ft now.

I was a little surprised to see this problem in a tree that was started from seed and promptly planted in the ground at an early stage. Same for the Ostrya v. So, I've had 2 like this that needed fixing.

Pic of Japanese larch which required root pruning several yrs after planting. Foliage has always been somewhat sparse, but it seems normal for it. Was losing some lower branches, but that seems to have stopped, and the two ridiculously long lower branches hold on. Guess about 40 ft tall at 19 yrs. Can see sugar maples w/poor and early coloring behind across the road.

Beng,

How did you know it needed root fixing so many years after planting?

Bill, that was done when it was prb'ly 3 yrs in the ground and a skinny 10 ft tall. When it got pushed over a bit, some tangled roots became visible. I dug up around the base to expose the root crown, and it was a tangled, circling mess that couldn't send out side roots like it should have. I cut off the girdling roots as best I could, then made a dozen very deep cuts outward from the base of the root crown, so as to cut thru any remaining circling roots. IIRC, I did then have to stake it for a couple yrs.

Sounds a lot like my O. virginiana.

Planted from a seedling and in the ground 3 years or so.

It was early springtime when I checked it, and the tree rocked in the ground badly, so I dug around to find only a couple contorted roots that needed attention. But the tree was putting all of its growth energy into those. I snipped them off and staked the tree. A year and a half later, I wiggled the tree again to find it was very solid and has been growing well ever since.

The trees and shrubs that have been coming in pots have sure been a nightmare. Everything I've bought that way has needed pretty intense root surgery before going in the ground. Then inspections down the road.

8-15-2025:

Just for what it's worth:

Further up in this thread, I left a questionable root, just for stability of the tree because there were no other lateral roots going out in that direction (yellow arrows).

Today when I looked, that root appears to have grown well. The tree is rock solid.

And I'm thinking this type of tree does 'root weld' to some extent, although it didn't in some instances where the roots crossed, it did in a couple of others.

Picture:

Some trees root-weld well, like beech. Seen some root-welding on a pin oak too.

I had a potted Eastern Hemlock, planted with a horribly contorted root system.

After a couple of years, you couldn't find anything wrong with it. 8^O

8-18-2025:

Larix Laricina species:

" I had a potted Eastern Hemlock, planted with a horribly contorted root system.

After a couple of years, you couldn't find anything wrong with it. 8^O"

@BillMN-z4a How did you verify?

8-27-26: Update.

Larix Laricina: (from the root surgery above).

The biggest root (right side) goes straight to where I water Hemlock #2.

4" caliper trunk 24" off the ground.

Sorry for the 'Sunny' picture:

20ft. tall?

;-)

That looks healthy -- alot better than my Japanese larch, which gets sparse by mid-summer. Perhaps I should find and plant a tamarack...

haha! Maybe add one? They'd like those wetter areas you have there.

Tamaracks are absolutely native here and so very cold hardy.

When I saw them growing vigorously, years ago, along a friend's driveway, who had a very sandy area, he told me they will grow on drier areas, once established.

Mine went through pretty much all of the intensely hot dry spell we had earlier. I watered it only after the thought I could possibly lose it but then soaking rains occurred and I haven't been concerned since.

The Name Tag.....that is in this thread. Are you -hand embossing them- .

I am looking at a semi commerical grade one....that does the embossing. Just need to buy and feed it blanks.

Tried a hand embosser.....wasn't thrilled about the results.

Hand stamps.

This is what I use: There might be better ones for sale.

https://www.harborfreight.com/-1/4-in-steel-letternumber-stamping-set-36-piece

I have a smaller 1/8" set too.

There's more information about hand stamping in THIS THREAD in case you missed it.

Click on the 'See 317 more comments' link at the beginning of the thread.