what exactly is the problem with existing cabs. If you dont want to replace them for drawers and updated better storage I would leave them. Hardware/ new backsplash / and a lighting plan would be sufficient if I chose not to replace the cabinetry. spend the lions share on your flooring upgrade throughout as that is a bigger deal with nicer return for the present and future. I would lean into a hardwood floor but look over the product selections. Good Luck.

Leave the existing cabinets alone. Warm wood is back, and those go perfectly with the other oak in the home.

I agree^^^or replace uppers with full height - and in a painted finish if you like the tuxedo look.

Have picked out your flooring yet?

I personally think the grain on those cabinets is too bossy and busy for that tight space, I think a calmer finish would look better in the kitchen.

You could do a painted cabinet, cream or a light mossy green would look nice with the oak trim.

Can you share a photo that shows us how the kitchen relates to the rest of the space?

Refacing by a professional company costs more than buying new. You need to develop a budget that you are comfortable with, and that may involve significant DIY labor to stretch that budget. If you want "different" cabinets, you can easily DIY paint those to a color. But if you want different stained wood cabinets, that's replace the cabinets. Not reface. Both involve new countertops and new backsplash. But DIY painting vs professionally painting is the difference between a 20K project and a 9K project. And that's without counters and splash. Just painting what exists.

Thank you to all for the advice and recommendations. I chose refacing because while the cabinet boxes are still in great shape, the finish on the doors and drawers seriously need refinishing along with new hinge hardware. I also really want to get away from the intensity of the oak grain in the kitchen; it really overpowers the space especially when you add in the railings, etc. My husband loves the oak and I promised some of it could stay so the railings/bannisters, etc. cannot be painted. I do love the warmth of wood that's why I was wondering if a stained maple cabinet (less bossy wood grain) could work with the oak that is staying. And if so, what color stain would work. Flooring is going to be a lvp and I'm thinking it should be a light color to contrast with the oak. I also like the idea of off white cabinets but am worried about reviews of painted cabinets not wearing well over time. It's just two adults so maybe that wouldn't be an issue? Something is telling me that stained cabinets, oak railings, and an oak lvp is just too much wood for one small kitchen...am I correct?

You can easily have just the cabinet doors and drawer fronts manufactured out of cheap crappy sawdust fake wood many people seem to like today and paint the frames the same color. Ikea has top notch fiber and particle board cabinets and the best part is you get to put them together, call it quality control.

Looks like red oak on the floor but if it is can't it be refinished? Then again a nice pressed sawdust laminate with a paper picture of wood on top will look waaaaay better.

Refacing is a poor buy compared to replacing. If you want new cabinets, buy new cabinets. Refacing is for people who have 100K high quality custom cabinets and who spent 20K on quartzite counters that they don't want to remove. The base box and build quality has to be top notch to make it worth the high expense. It makes no sense with builder basic cabinets. DIY efforts to paint are what makes sense there, with a basic inexpensive granite to top it off. And keeping the existing floors. Never put plastic floors on top of wood floors. You will ruin 2 floors at once.

Keep the existing floors. Do not downgrade to vinyl. Paint the cabinets. Put the money into a counter and backsplash. You can be under 10K for your changes if you shop smartly for those things.

I'm pretty sure the existing floors are not hardwood. Look at the edges.

WHAT an absurd statement above!

MDF is not particle board, and is stable, and takes paint beautifully.

Go back to the beginning, please?

"I want to get away from all the oak, leave some that isn't the cabinetry,,,( edited)"

"I'm replacing all the flooring"

First, go on the internet, Google up some painted kitchens that appeal to you. Painted dos not dictate a white, though that is an option.

Why are all the floors changing" there is no possibility of sand, refinish to a lighter stain?

You have to clarify goals, get some inspo pics and come back.

Why do all men like oak??!? Don’t get me wrong, I like oak - for example, I have quartersawn red oak that runs above the mantle of the fp in my kitchen - and it’s beautiful. I have a fairly large kitchen - and A LOT of red oak - six tall windows + second set of shorter windows stacked above so they go to ceiling in a vaulted area for my kitchen table - and the windows have super thick red oak trim around all of it. Add the kitchen cabinets+ island + fireplace + thick trim + wall pantry + select grade red oak floors = red oak overload.

My SO doesn’t understand why I want to break things up by painting trim around windows + upper stacked wall cabinets (even with changing to rift sawn white oak for the rest). It’s just too much stained wood

I am definitely in the camp that’s opposed to ever putting faux wood next to real wood. So, I would not use lvp faux wood on the floor unless all cabinets will be painted (I’d still rather have real wood floors with thinner (dated) boards than wider faux wood lvp).

Start with the floor selection and build from there. If you are near an IKEA you may want to consider options they have. Probably all in for new cabinets with lots of drawers and full height uppers for less than the cost of refacing.

You might consider installing hardwood oak floors and then paint the cabinets. Keep the oak railings but paint the balusters white.

MDF = Medium density fiberboard. Made with wood fiber and 9% Urea formaldehyde resin glue. It will swell in high humidity conditions. Urea is synthesized urine, and don't get me going about formaldehyde. And when your hinge screws pull out of the garbage good luck there. I do get a chuckle when I open a MDF cabinet and see MDF shelves bowing.

Going back to the beginning! Think about Vinyl wrap.

If your husband loves oak, put down solid white oak hardwood floors, and then get whatever cabinets you want. Win-win. I am also a wood-lover - don't make that poor man live with LVP floors. :)

Lots of people mix their wood tones, and there are many articles on doing this well online. The basic guidelines recommend you DO mix light and dark woods, but DON’T mix warm and cool tones. Your predominant wood is a mid tone warm red oak, so that would mix well with walnut (darker) or maple (lighter). In the images I’ve seen this is almost always done with white cabinets.

If you are worried about wear and tear you could choose oak for your lower cabinets and a warm white for your uppers. Good luck!

Love that kitchen eam44! It looks like they used cork floors with the oak, which works so nicely! Also green stone counter tops and backsplash--they don't "match" but work well together.

And OMG yellow walls--the horror!

What about refinishing the bottom cabinets and flooring, but refacing only the top cabinets with a couple of them glass fronted?

The Charles House · More Info

Refreshed French Country Kitchen · More Info

😂😂 Honestly, there are at least five things in that image on my never list, but that’s an undeniably beautiful space. I try to keep this image in mind whenever I’m tempted to say no. There are oak cabinets, and there are OAK CABINETS 😍🤩🤤

https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2706140/design-around-9-keeping-the-golden-oak

Do not rip out beautiful hardwood floors for LVP. Huge downgrade. Spend that money instead of re-sanding and re-finishing what you have -- you can pick any color stain you want.

@jqueen3 Are your current floors hardwood?

I have so many reasons to love my LVP floors…not the least of which is to save the forests…but also the very low maintenance…and easy installation ..and no fading ..as I have tons of windows….i grew up with the monthly obligation of servicing beautiful old hardwood floors…so i am especially appreciative of my “only damp cloth for spots” upkeep…