How have you been building your soil? Compost? Mulch? Cover crops? Organic fertilizers?

Most soil disinfectants are now restricted use only. But drenching with 5% household bleach is alleged to work. Of course, to the extent nearby soil is infected, wind-blown spores will be an issue.

Over winter is probably the least effective time of year to attempt this. Like with plants, winter's temperatures tend to restrict the development and activity of even pathogenic organisms. And as noted, chemical treatments are not readily available for homeowners anyway.

If you can possibly manage, skipping a growing season and solarizing the soil could be very effective. But it needs the summer heat and an extended period of time for the process to work efficiently. Wikipedia has a good summation of the process and how to go about it but you can also find lots of other online info.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Soil_solarization

Fungus overwinters in plant debris so an extensive fall cleanup would be my suggestion followed with a flame torch treatment. (flame torch link) The 3500 degree temperature will kill fungi and there spores in a millisecond and destroy small particles of plant debris.

I use this method every year, last week I cut out my potato vines and flamed the hills and paths and will dig taters next week.

My tomatoes are done and I picked the last flush Monday so those rows will be the next. I cut and pick up as much plant debris as I can without disturbing the soil then give it a good torch job followed by pulling the roots with another good flame treatment before messing with any dirt.

With nothing to overwinter on populations are drastically reduced. I don't get carried away trying to go deep, just the surface cleansing. There are many beneficial nematodes living in the soil that are fungal feeders and help reduce fungi.

I should add that spores will overwinter on plant hosts, so weeds and winter cover crops are not advisable. These treatments are all surface treatments, and while there are organisms in the soil that feed on fungi, the fungi will thrive in an organic, moist, compost-rich environment. The trouble with soil solarizing is that you lose one entire season in order to do it. To the extent that spores in the soil get lofted up onto the plants, mulching is an option. That is, just cover the infected soil.

Some good info, I like the flame torch idea. I definitely do not want to skip a year. I wonder if using row covers would help some too? I suspect it is all over. I notice issues with "local" aka wild vegetation too.

It's understood that such infections are somewhat more rare in greenhouses and high tunnels, probably because there is less wind to loft the spores, and shielding against wind-blown spores. By that token, row covers might help.;