like a picture rail?

IMO the shiplap ship sailed a while ago and to me that plan would say too cheap to do the whole wall

I think you are suggesting something like this?

I think that could look really nice. Use a wide top board ( 6 " or so ) or one that might be enough to become the top molding of the windows and doors if they all line up close enough.

@debbie…yes! I forgot a major detail. I want to run the shiplap vertically. But yes, like this!

I will be painting the ceiling. I didn’t want to have so many lines so I thought it would make the space look more polished.

Ship Lap is only horizontal. When it's vertical it's plank, tongue and groove or beadboard.

I’m actually taking shiplap boards and I will be installing them vertically. Sorry if I am not using the correct words. But I am not doing board and batten….

Consider a height of about 6'. Add a horizontal board at the top and cap that with a molding.

The shiplap should be a bit thinner than the base and top trim.

Consider how this will butt into the window and door trim.

6' seems right. I would look at using a back band trim around the window that is the depth back to the gypsum board, and scribe where the nickel gap is. That way you don't need to cut the nickel gap perfectly, and any gaps of the cut back band to the nickel gap won't be noticeable. You'd probably have to custom make the back band.

I think that would still look great!

You will have a challenge though. The boards need to be the same size. This will be very tricky when incorporating the location of the door and window. This will needs lots of measuring and calculating the best place to do cuts and sizing for window/door trims.

I do like PPF's idea too with a 6ft height and cap molding. You could do a different color above the panels.

It all depends on what the whole space looks like.

I know you said you wanted to paint the ceiling but I think I would wait. Maybe give it a good cleaning and see what you think.

Good luck!

I will do 8 foot boards.
Because the highest point of the ceiling is 11 1/2 feet . There’s already a natural line around the 8 foot mark.
I will use the natural line to create a more exaggerated, larger piece of trim .

This is my little cottage and it’s time for me to have a new look without the patina!
Ceiling will be white.
I was thinking either to paint the “triangle parts” a sand colour and I also considered painting the trim sand and leaving boards white. But, not really 100% sure on colour yet.

I’m attaching a picture of the size…I just can’t nail down how to creatively accentuate the that one board.
I’ve already prepped the ceiling for paint. I’ve replaced the old boards that were damaged. I will spray it for a more clean look.

I’m still thinking of it.

I think you should get some graph paper and draw out the boards widths based on the window/door locations. You might find that you need to have a 4" trim on the window but 3 1/2 on the doors or some thing like that. If you make the trim a different color, that could stand out more. Since this particular wall is a window and door, it will be easier because the door goes to the floor.

If you want to test it out before cutting boards, I would get a roll of paper and cut out the boards and trim. Tape it up and see what you think. Then make adjustments. It might take a little time, but it could save a lot of time in putting up boards and taking them down when things don't seem quite right.

Good luck - I'm sure it will be great!

I apreciate that Debbi. I have friend that is a finish carpenter, so no issue or worry about the cuts etc...Ive got that...

@PPF. thank you for your response. Can you expalin to me th reasoning to keep the boards at 6ft and then add trim to that? I have 11.5ft ceilings....my thought was to install the 8ft boards with a trim piece, cap, or something to diving the gyproc and the shiplap. Do you think creating a line 1/2 way up the wall would not make it look stubby?

@Seabornman we would be ripping nicer boards and creating a custom look forsure...