You called?

Any roof blower (of appropriate flow rate performance, duct size interface, etc.) can be used with any hood/duct combination, but not necessarily with any hood's particular controls. The task you or your electrician must perform is to investigate the existing control and see whether:

a) the connection to the blower motor is two conductors plus ground operating at mains voltage. In that case the motor is probably an induction motor, and mains voltage Broan motors/blower assemblies can be used directly if the current requirements are similar. The hood control will likely be a smooth operating rotary potentiometer, but a stepped switch cannot be ruled out.

b) the connection to the blower motor has more than two conductors with ground, in which case the control is likely a rotary switch with multiple positions, or multiple push buttons. These would drive a multiply-wound motor. Replacement with the Broan induction motors named above would require either adapting a phase-type motor control to the hood, or mounting it separately in the hood or in a wall, counter, or other suitable location.

Note motor controls, often available from electrical distributors and big-box hardware stores, differ from light controls by going from OFF state to maximum motor power, then reducing power (actually phase fraction) as the control is rotated clockwise. Light controls go from OFF state to minimum power fraction, and increase power as rotated clockwise.

NuTone's motor controls have (had) a fancier wall plate than generic controls which may expect a nominal light switch wall plate to be supplied separately. I expect that Broan/NuTone still sell controls for their blowers but haven't looked.

The Broan/NuTone roof blower assembly used with my Wolf hood, is an induction type, and my hood (actually manufactured by Independent ca. 2009) uses a hood specific knob/resistor/diac/triac circuit typical of early motor phase controls. More modern controls may have integrated circuits.

All that said, you need to confirm that it is your blower that failed and not the control. Check wiring between control and blower to see if voltage is present when it should be. If not, you have a control problem which may be fixable, particularly in case (a), by repair or replacement. Case (b) controls could be anything inside, so I won't comment on their repairability, which would require an electronics tech as a minimum.

THANK YOU! T@kaseki! YOU ARE THE GOAT!!

The roofer did determine that the motor of the blower was shot! Therefore I am replacing as opposed to getting a new motor. So am I ok to order the Broan EB12? or is there an alternative?

The duct work complies.

Here is a picture of the control for the hood. one is light switch the other controls the fan.

THANKS!!!!

Which is which? The white toggle switch appears two-state: OFF and ON, so if it operates the motor then you would be good to go. If the other control operates the motor, then I can't conclude anything because I can't see whether the control is two-state or more complex. This is why I asked about the number of conductors.

I would also suggest that a switch box located inside a cooking hood be stainless steel due to the intermittent long-term steam environment. As you may have noticed, the galvanize is deteriorating to some degree hard to quantify by looking at this image. Your electrician can get stainless steel boxes from garvinindustries.com if local supply is deficient, or from marina-proximate electrical distributors. Alternatively, code may require use of a damp location box, which will be easier to obtain locally.

As for which replacement blower to use of the two you originally noted: Skipping the details, calculate the intake aperture of the hood base in square feet. Multiply by 90 CFM/sq.ft., then by 1.5 to address the fan curve. (I assume you have some make-up air supply, otherwise we have a longer discussion.) The result is the rated blower CFM you should equal or exceed.