Two feet tall in one gallon pots, and 8 weeks away from plant out? Yes, you have a problem. Might consider potting up to larger pots. You could consider pruning or topping to reduce their size.

Have you got somewhere much lighter and a bit cooler to put them? The plants are etiolated.

What varieties are they? At 8 weeks out, you might be able to resow still.

No easy solution for this year, but a typical rule of thumb is to start tomatoes indoors about 6-8 weeks prior to planting them outside. It works for me, just time them to plant outside about 2-3 weeks after your last avg frost date while keeping your local long range forecast in mind to avoid a late cold snap.

How about replanting them deeper? That should force bigger toot development while reducing the top.

Suggestions? Sure!

Regarding tomatoes, I also use the 6-8 week prior to LFD guideline to start tomatoes. So, with 8 weeks until plant-out, you have plenty of time to restart your tomatoes from seed.

Regarding peppers, my guidelines are based on the type of pepper. C.chinense (i.e Habanero types), I use 12 weeks prior to LFD to start seeds. C.annuum (i.e. Bell types), I use 8 weeks. So, if you're growing mostly sweet/mild type peppers, they're most likely Annuums, and you have time to restart them from scratch as well.

Now, what to do with your current plants. IF you have the room, I'd do some experimenting! I'd cut all of them back (probably by 1/3rd or so), and see how they do. Best case, you'll have nice, bushy plants, in flower, ready to start producing. Then you can make friends and give away all the plants you'll start today! Worst case, you lose all the original/pruned plants, but you'll still be able to plant what you start today. WIN! WIN!

Just food for thought. Good luck with whatever you decide!

Pot up if you have bigger pots. You will have to keep fertilized with a weak solution. Keep staked. If you have nice days, set outside for more sun. When you can plant outside, pinch off the bottom leaves and bury the stem deep.

Next year, seeds 6 to 8 weeks to last frost date. You can push that if you do not mind covering at night and uncovering at dawn.

ETA: If you have some big pots, you can plant these in the pots and start some more for the garden.

It is true, the OP could keep growing those out. Repot into much bigger pots. Treat them as a greenhouse grow if they bring in a lot of grow lights. They still got two months to go before going outside. And are already too big for their pots and too lanky from what may be inadequate light.

On where they are more exactly, and their microclimates. A coldframe might be able to gain the OP a week or two on their season. A double stacked haybale hot frame might gain them 3 weeks. I used to be able to gain some time with haybales when I lived in Racine- the grow zone was a bit better than inland, but the microclimate was poor with buildings all around the garden. It looks like the OP has some open space, so their sunlight time might be better for a frame.

I went down that road once. With the tomatoes you'd be better off doing what Lone Jack said, because even if they survive they won't do good They'd be in the reproductive stage using energy to grow flowers and fruit and not roots with very poor results. Replanting about two or three weeks from now will blow away what you will get from the plants you have now. I live in Minnesota (twin cities) and plant my tomatoes outside around the 15th of May and won't start them until early April. May 15 is to early but I have a 12% probability of temps at 32 degrees, and each day that passes the probability drops nearly 1%. Small plants allow me to cover with 8" and 12" pots with a plastic bag over it, but it's been 12 years since I had to cover them just one time, but most prefer the last frost date.

Your peppers would of done OK because of their slow growth, but the plants aren't healthy due to the low light environment and leggy. With better light they'd be half the height they are now, and I don't know if they get fertilized. Peppers are one of the last things I plant outside in the first week of June, and will also start peppers when I start tomatoes using a heat mat. Without one I'd plant the last week in March. I don't want big plants to plant outside.

If you planted determinate (bush like roma) tomatoes don't bother keeping them and replant later, they're not a plant one usually would prune. If you planted indeterminate (vine) tomatoes you could try and salvage a few of your favorites by topping them down a good foot right above a side shoot sucker growing out the crotch of a branch turning it into your new leader. Get the plant some better light, Set the plants outside TODAY mid afternoon when temps are above 55 degrees for a few hours. Thursday and Friday will get into the 60's and 70's so put the plants out each day for a few hours of direct sun or longer in partial sun, and do this any time weather allows until you plant. Cloudy days are great to harden off plants. You need to harden off the plants or the leaves will get sunburned, and could kill the plant.

If your tomato plants were healthy I'd say you could easily clone 6" of the top you cut off but they aren't. If you decide to throw them out give cloning a try if interested and may be fun. Look up how to harden off plants and how to easily clone tomato plants, it's easy. (but really need healthy plants)

In the event the plants themselves keep growing AND very likely root bound what's the chances I slice half inch up and down cut off half inch on bottom (or wiggle them out). That the plants will take in garden?

I never cut! Tomatoes root very easy. Like I said before, pick off the bottom leaves and lant deep. Tomatoes will root along the stem. You have time to keep these AND start new ones, which is what you want. I nevef grow any except cherry/grape and indeterminate. The other is for when you want all of a crop to mature at the sme time, like to sell at a market.

You are WAY over thinking this.

You have well developed root systems right now, but the plants are desperately leggy. No sense in preserving leggy plants. But if you cut them back seriously, maybe to a foot height or so, and give them better lighting, they should branch out and be ready for plantout. What you plant out will have big root systems. If you replant seeds or make cuttings from the plants, you'll be planting out small root systems, which will set you back. Of course, in that sense, one might consider it smart to plant seeds long before plantout and do heavy pruning. I suggest doing both, and see which works best. Seriously rootbound plants won't have an issue if they're not trying to support a lot of growth topside.

The tomatoes in your pic are not exactly unhealthy, they are just very etiolated (leggy). Root some cuttings, toss the old plants, and give them more light. Smaller plants suffer much less transplants shock, and adapt and grow quicker than larger ones. I have always timed things so that I have stocky 6-10 inch tall transplants when planting time comes.

Rodney

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