would this one work? A regular modern fridge only draws 4-5 amps, maybe 7 when defrosting. 14 gauge is plenty, as a matter of fact most fridges come with a 16 or 18-gauge cord.

1 ft, 14 gauge

https://www.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Profile-Extension-White/dp/B073FDJ4NY/ref=sxin_25_sbv_search_btf?content-id=amzn1.sym.c8b39f81-ded8-4d75-80c2-6dfa03cbb699%3Aamzn1.sym.c8b39f81-ded8-4d75-80c2-6dfa03cbb699&crid=OCN2AQIKR9BA&cv_ct_cx=short%2Bheavy%2Bduty%2Bextension%2Bcord%2Bflat%2Bhead&keywords=short%2Bheavy%2Bduty%2Bextension%2Bcord%2Bflat%2Bhead&pd_rd_i=B073FDJ4NY&pd_rd_r=706ad125-54e5-4b97-8d8a-c9c94c7a64fb&pd_rd_w=zMJ9q&pd_rd_wg=OAz2q&pf_rd_p=c8b39f81-ded8-4d75-80c2-6dfa03cbb699&pf_rd_r=KNVS9FS6X2ZPT4VV74EA&qid=1750706961&s=electronics&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=short%2Bheavy%2Bduty%2Bextension%2Bcord%2Bflat%2Bhea%2Celectronics%2C167&sr=1-1-5190daf0-67e3-427c-bea6-c72c1df98776&th=1

I couldn't find 12 gauge in white. But you hardly ever unplug you refrigerator, so you could probably buy any color to meet your other specifications and just paint it white.

I won’t add another link, but there are plenty on Amazon at 1 ft, 2 ft, etc and 14 ga is enough. Sounds like your refrigerator situation is getting sorted!

Glad to hear you all think 14 ga is enough. Much appreciated. I thought I needed 12 guage and it was very hard to find. There are certainly 14 ga in white that are short. Our outlet is next to, not hidden behind our fridge so white will at least help the plug blend in a little to the outlet plate and wall.

Thanks all!

Gauge matters as the length of cord is extended to 50 or 100 feet. 1 to 2 feet? Not a problem.

• I thought I needed 12 guage

You are going crazy :-) .

Since this is a refrigerator I assume it is a 15 amp cord and not a 20 amp cord - you can check by looking at the plug on the refrigerator cord. The only reason to have 12 gauge is if the extension cord is VERY long - like 100 feet long - to avoid excess voltage drop at maximum load.

w0lley32: "14 gauge is plenty, as a matter of fact most fridges come with a 16 or 18-gauge cord."

Nope. Refrigerators require a 15amp circuit and a (minimum) 14-gauge cord. Instructions warn against extension cords.

-----

When copying an Amazon URL, just copy the text up to an including the code that follows "dp/":

https://www.amazon.com/FIRMERST-1875W-Profile-Extension-White/dp/B073FDJ4NY

You can also remove the product description:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073FDJ4NY

Refrigerators require a 15amp circuit and a (minimum) 14-gauge cord.

If that's the case, I guess LG, Danby, Whirlpool and General Electric break the law. I have or have had fridges from these 4 manufacturers and they all came with a 16-gauge cord attached, yet they bore the CSA and ULC listings.

"If that's the case, I guess LG, Danby, Whirlpool and General Electric break the law."

No, the appliances require a 15 amp circuit and 14-gauge wire is required. If one is buying a cord that he can be sure will support an appliance, he should buy a 14-gauge (or larger) one. A manufacturer will, of course, install a cord sized for the appliance he's building. See how that works?

I think wdccruise may just be confusing the 15 amp plug on the refrigerator with the cordage - which doesn't need to 14 gauge - eg.:

• White-3-Prong-Wiring-Replacement-Pigtail - "Ideal for replacement of power cords on power tools, dishwashers, freezer, and garbage disposals."

But AnnKH's comment is valid - an extension cord should not be used as a permanent solution. Best to have an electrician install an outlet within reach of the refrigerator cord - and a dedicate circuit is preferred for a refrigerator. Or, if the manufacturer/refrigerator supports it, replacing the cord with a longer one.

dennisgli: "I think wdccruise may just be confusing the 15 amp plug on the refrigerator with the cordage"

Nope. The circuit serving the appliance is likely 15 amp so I am suggesting that without knowing the power requirements of the appliance, using a 14-gauge (minimum for 15 amps) extension cord is the best solution.

Rules against extension cords make sense when you have no control over what people will do, like run a 2400 watt microwave for 10 minutes straight on a skinny beat-up cord meant for a 60 watt light bulb.

If you open up the fridge and look inside, I doubt you'll find more than 14 ga wiring. Copper costs money, after all.

You'll want electrical stuff done - better lighting, more outlets, etc - and when you get the electrician in to do all that stuff, they can move the fridge outlet too. Until then, don't lose sleep over a brand new 2' 14 ga cord for a fridge that probably draws 6-8A max and then only briefly.

And I never suggested using an extension cord smaller than 14 gauge. I just pointed out that since the cord on the fridge is likely 16 gauge, a 14-gauge extension cord will do just fine. And it is true that extension cords should not be used as a permanent solution.

probably best is to kove the outlet, usually it needs to be moved down. are you trying to push the fridge closer to the wall or slide a few inches? there might be a notation in instructions regarding iutlet location

Don't forget that residential wiring requirements (NFPA 70) as commonly practiced, and manufacturer wiring requirements tested by, e.g., UL, are not the same. As is commonly done for cooktops, wall ovens, and ranges, the manufacturer may choose to operate the power wiring at a higher temperature by selecting smaller sized conductors and appropriately higher rated conductor insulation.

Properly, one should ensure that whatever the appliance wiring connects to has an appropriate temperature rating. Very likely, the appliance plug supplied will not overheat an approved wall receptacle, but could pass excess heat to the lower thermal mass of the molded receptacle of a 16 AWG extension cord. So derating the extension cord in this case would be advised (pending a wall receptacle location change).