For something that you just need to last 10 years, I wouldn't be splitting hairs over whether it's 100% brass. We have a Kohler valve in one bath and a Grohe valve in the other. Both are mostly but not entirely brass. The Kohler was put in 16 or 17 years ago as a "quick fix" for an old leaking valve, and has held up just fine; they still made that valve when I looked a few years back. The Grohe is only three years old so can't speak to longevity, but I'm certainly expecting more than 10 years out of it. If you're just looking to replace what's there without adding any additional handles, I'd just do a basic pressure balancing valve that comes in a trim you like. If you stick to chrome it should mix with your existing showerhead and spout. Not sure what brand the sink faucet is, but maybe start there and look for trims that are similar to that style?

The 1950s, original faucet is leaking in a new to us condo that is not our primary residence and we have zero time or interest in gutting the bathroom. Two plumbers say the faucet is so worn out it needs new handles and whatever goes in the wall behind the handles that mixes the water and turns it on and off. (Sorry I don't know the right words for these parts.)

I want to make sure that I understand this correctly because it's late here - and I'm having trouble sleeping -

Your faucet in your shower/tub combo is leaking? You posted above that you just installed a new Speakman shower head and a new tub spout. However, the new spout is still leaking - and two plumbers have informed you that you need new handles and "and whatever goes in the wall behind the handles that mixes the water and turns it on and off" all because the "faucet is so worn out."

The part that is inside the wall is a mixing valve. I assume that the plumbers meant that the leaking is occurring because the mixing valve and/or the connection of the handles to the mixing valve is so worn out that a new one is needed (not the actual faucet because you just replaced the spout (faucet).

If the handles are causing the leaking, any new handles/trim pieces will need to work with the mixing valve that's inside the wall - or you will have to open the wall (unless there is enough room to do so once the escutcheon plate is removed - not sure how that works when you have a two handle system because the hole behind each handle isn't very large.)

Mixing valves (internal part) and shower handles/knobs (trim kits = external part) do not all work with each other. It appears that you must currently have a Central Brass mixing valve inside your wall - and that mixing valve is compatible with certain handles/knobs (as shown in the links).

HOWEVER, if your issue is that the mixing valve is causing the leaking - and that's what needs to be replaced - you are not limited to Central Brass shower handles/trim kits. If you replace the current mixing valve, that will determine what trim kits you can use with it.

I've had 4-5 plumbers tell me that Delta(Brizio) makes the best mixing valve (and it is brass). I was replacing several mixing valves in my home and at my lake house. I was told that Delta makes a universal mixing valve that can be used with basically all of its trim kits (and Brizio trim kits - the Brizio mixing valve is the same as the Delta one - Delta owns Brizio).

It's nice to use a universal valve because I will be able to update my trim kit (= shower handles/knobs) when I want in the future WITHOUT the need to replace the universal valve that is installed inside the wall. FYI - you can use any brand of shower head/tub spout - it's only the trim kit that has to work with the installed mixing valve in the wall).

Not all brands work this way = if you want to change your trim kit (outside handle part), you have to change your mixing valve - even if the new trim kit is the same brand as the existing trim kit. Delta uses a cartridge that is part of the trim kit instead of being part of the valve inside the wall which is why you are able to change trim kits without changing the universal valve inside the wall. You can also upgrade you trim kit from a plain one that you adjust the temperature every time you turn the shower on to one that keeps a set temperature (pressure balanced or thermostatic ones - there are three different types 14 series/17 series/17T series).

I am able to change my trim kit to any of the ones below without worrying about accessing the valve inside the wall (unless I decided I wanted to add a hand held shower or something and needed a diverter - I would need the universal diverter valve inside the wall for those trim kits).

Delta trim kit examples:

Brizio trim kit examples:

Not all Kohler trim kits work with all Kohler mixing valves - same with other manufacturers. You have way more choices with Delta/Brizio trim kits.

This has turned into a long post - sorry!

I didn't know how this stuff worked before - I never knew that the brand of mixing valve inside your wall limits the trim kit(s) that can be installed on the outside of the wall.

As I explained earlier, sometimes a mixing valve can be changed without opening the wall (through the access hole under the escutcheon plate) - but many times it cannot be. If the wall behind where your shower fitxtures are installed is drywall, then a plumber is able to access the mixing valve by cutting an opening in the drywall from the other side of the wall. If you can't access the mixing valve through the other side of the wall, the replacing it requires the removal of tile most of the time.

I hope this makes sense. It's after 2:30 a.m. - and my brain is half asleep!

The plumber needs to explain exactly what is causing the leak.

Oh no! My first pic didnt post, which is why you might be confused. Our set up has two handles coming out of the wall - one for hot, one for cold.

There is an access panel in the closet behind the shower wall. This will enable them to change out the valves behind the shower wall without having to cut open the tile wall. They both have worked on buildings this age and said that very few companies make two handle faucets anymore. Our set up just requires a hot and cold handle. The diverter from the tub to the shower is in the spout.

Sorry for the confusion @dani_m08. My insomnia intersected your insomnia!

Anybody use Kingston Brass valves? I'm going to ask my plumber if these can be used. It seems to come with the exterior handles and the valves that go inside the wall.

User manual for install

https://secure.img1-ag.wfcdn.com/dm/document/93d6d749-00a6-4db0-8938-f1fb57f1d659/owner%20manual

Product page

https://www.wayfair.com/home-improvement/pdp/kingston-brass-concord-double-handle-tub-and-shower-faucet-lbnf2745.html?piid=35991661

All the major brands have fixtures with Brass Guts. Not sure why the plumber is giving you one random supplier. To be fair, it's likely many of these same plumbing lines like the ones listed also import cheaper units that don't have brass guts.

Kohler

American Standard

Speakman

Chicago Faucet

Kingston Brass

Once he opens the wall the tile used is often destroyed, because that's the way plumbers work, so a metal plate is often installed to cover the lost tile. Personally, I would not leave a plumber to his own solutions. Decide what you want in advance.

Old setups like that with separate hot and cold are no longer allowed. You cannot replace 1:1. You need new mandated anti scald protection, which is a single handle unit mixer. This is a case of that tile might as well go away, because you will have such a big patch of it to have to repair to convert what you have. Just rip it all and redo it all. The pipes are probably suspect as well.

Okay, let's back up: Would you be open to keeping what you have, or do you want to update the look as well as the function?

I had the original 1943 tub faucets and I've repaired many faucets that were much older than that.

They have replaceable washers, replaceable seats, and replaceable stem packing / o rings.

Many plumbers just have no idea how to replace a washer seat (it's not hard). The entire valve stem is usually replaceable if you don't want to mess with packing nuts and/or graphite packing.

The whole thing about "all brass" is nonsense. Plastic in the right places makes faucets last for a very long time. I don't like plastic trim or valve stems, but thank goodness that they don't build them all brass anymore!

You do have to be aware of if you are required to replace with thermostatic and/or pressure balanced. The Kingston Brass you linked to is pressure balanced. That may limit your choices significantly.

@Jake The Wonderdog - I actually was going to tag you since you are an expert re: plumbing (and other topics) - I thought you'd have some "words of wisdom" to share.

Kendrah - ^ this is why I concluded my ridiculously long comment with "[t]he plumber needs to explain exactly what is causing the leak." I was wondering if it was just "easier" to just completely replace it vs. fixing the actual issue ("easier" = maybe they don't know how to "fix the issue"- but they know how to replace the old system with a new one).

Yes - I do have an issue related to trusting any type of contractors due to the issues I've had with ones during the past few years - I know that there are honest plumbers - I actually have one that I found last year - it's too bad that all of the hacks/dishonest ones make it difficult for the honest/knowledgeable ones).

Reliability and minimal work are the name of the game.

My goal is to stop to faucet from leaking without having to redo the tile. There is access to this valvebe through a panel on the other side of the wall. Two plumbers who have looked at it say the pipes are in ok condition. I believe segments of them have been replaced.

I don’t care what is up to code. Not pulling a permit anyway. This is not our forever home. It is a condo we stay in when visiting my parents.

I’m not wed to all brass. (One plumber recomended it, he has done a lot of work on this building, though I don’t necessarily trust his opinion.) I want something that can be easily fixed if it breaks again.

I don’t know enough about plumbing or the situation to instruct someone to replace certain parts and not others. I don’t know what pressure balanced and thermostatic mean. (Learned when I gutted our home bath and have since forgotten:)

Educate me please @Jake The Wonderdog! et al!

If patching is what you want, rather than actually fixing the issues, then learn toreplace the washers yourself. It will be on repeat repeat repeat performance until that gets ripped apart and redone.

Old style faucets with washers can last several years between washer replacement, but yes they require more maintenance than modern faucets. What happens is that the brass seat gets pitted over time. Once that starts, users will tighten the faucet knob more to stop the leak and the washer gets chewed up rapidly. The solution is to check and replace the seat if it is nicked or pitted, along with the washer.

If you are looking for a way to extend the life of these faucets, find a handy person who knows how to replace the washer and seat. They will require more maintenance than modern faucets but should give you several years between required service if you replace the seat when needed.

If you are leaning towards replacing, and code compliance isn't an issue, the faucet you linked to looks like it should work.

The plumbers who suggested the faucets be updated aren't wrong or untrustworthy, there's a good reason nobody makes valves that way anymore. That said, only you can balance the competing priorities in your head.

BTW brass valve seats are a prime example of someplace where "all brass construction" really sucked.

See photos below for example of what a pitted and nicked seat looks like.

If you Google "two handle shower faucets" you will come up with many to choose from. Home Depot has a lot. Be sure to discuss with the plumber before purchase. As others have said, the code now is to have the single handle with anti-scald. If a permit has to be pulled, this may be a problem. One would hope that a repair rather than a reno would not entail this.