dan1888 - it's a full remodel, so the plan was to do the same LVP all downstairs. This way we have durability and water protection in all areas (kitchen, bathrooms, and kids being kids). So currently we have a lot of dusty, exposed concrete ready to cover :-)

I wouldn't go so far to say LVT is durable or water resistant, quite the opposite. As suggested, go with engineered wood, which is durable, can deal with water, and be refinished. Run it throughout the first floor.

I will also agree that LVT does not add any value to the houzz. It is bottom line; it actually sounds cheap under foot and the photograph of a wood species on backing is a dead give away.

Lvp is thin and flexy. Your concrete has to be very flat. If not, the flexing can lead to a break in the click fastening system down the road. A re-engineered laminate product is now back on the market with waterproofness as the new improvement. And thickness with rigidity. Flooret has both products. I'd find a way to do the entire floor with engineered European Oak in matte.

We just tore out Coretec in our kitchen, living room, sun room and hallways to put in solid oak flooring.

No way would I put laminate flooring in a bathroom.

Temporary plastic floors are not worthy of that kitchen inspiration. Only real wood, or maybe a nice gray slate, will be the right level and mesh with that.

Vinyl is a con artist game. There are a huge amount of claims over it failing via separation or buckling. No one ever does the install correctly, with the moisture testing, moisture barrier, or flattening the subfloor, and leaving the gaps at the walls and doorways. Those 4 things are why 99% of the claims are denied.

It’s gross, and it’s fails are filling up landfills, that wont fully biodegrade for millions of years.

Hear Hear ^^^