Diyher
I did say unless you were proficient. I also never said you had to spend $30,000.
Most people do not have the skills to finish furniture or make truly educated design choices. That is why there are professionals for everything. We can all do our taxes ourselves, but do we ever really know if we got back our refunds to the fullest potential. We all play baseball or football but that doesn't mean we can all play professionally.
He who represents himself in court, has a fool for a client.

Good for you that you were able to save $2500 on Finished cabinets. To be bluntly honest, driving hours to a store and having to build, install, and finish cabinets yourself might not be worth saving $2500 to some people.

All I said was to make educated decisions, based on your research and opinions.

Ize Neva wuz eddicated. Ize gotta street smarz.

RE3Designs, It's not that I don't agree with some of your points. I do, because you make some good ones! Yes, it's never a good idea to attempt doing something you know nothing about (or even very little about), and many things are better left in the hands of professionals....that's a given. However, the whole reason I wrote the original post was because of overwhelming frustration with the fact that we did have a decent budget, I had done a lot of homework and research, we had been to professional trained kitchen designers, we solicited bids from experienced, professional contractors, and the pricing for both cabinets and labor were all over the place. We actually didn't even go to Lowes until after spending several weeks going over designs with the professionals at a couple places and they were either pricing super high end cabinets we couldn't afford or they offered lower end cabinets that didn't have the quality we wanted and lacked most of the very few extras we asked for. Our budget is actually considerably over that $30,000 you mention, and we still couldn't seem to afford decent cabinets along with everything else that needed to be done....or was on our wish list to be done. We didn't draw up our own plan, but we did spend a weekend cutting and pasting a copy of the original plan to see if it was even possible to rearrange our kitchen without moving the windows (a pretty big cost savings). When we found something that worked, we took our ideas back to the designer, and the plan was redone by them. Granted, I have 30 years experience working as a Design Drafter and 25+ years working on AutoCad, so it's not like I don't have some relevant background....but we left it to the kitchen designers experience because of the scale of our renovation.

We tried the professional kitchen showroom experience, but the cabinets we ended up with at Lowes truly were of a better quality than the ones being offered at another kitchen showroom for the same price...thicker plywood, better painted finish, bigger and stronger hanging rails, better interiors, and better cabinet box construction...everything else being the same. We brought painted doors home from both and compared the finish and construction side by side. The difference was easy to see. We chose a mortise and tenon door-style from Lowes that has less likelihood of pulling apart in dry weather and cracking the paint finish.....as opposed to a mitered door frame from another place whose display door already was showing cracks. The lowest price mortise and tenon door from them would have cost us $2,000 more. Not that we won't ever have cracks (our winters are horribly dry here), but it was something we were aware of and was one factor in our decision.

So it really is a personal choice based on so many things. For us, the budget is driving us. The cabinets had to be what we felt we could afford, or we wouldn't have been able to do this at all. If we'd had more money to spend on a higher quality cabinet, we would have. We did our homework the best we could, and I really think we got the best quality cabinets we could for our budget.

As far as DIY stuff goes, we've done a lot of work on our house ourselves over the years, and we've always done a lot of research before doing so. I'm pretty proud of the fact that we refinished every bit of hardwood flooring in our house, and we tore out a stairway wall and most of the stairs and installed new oak treads, balusters, and newel post. It turned out nice! We've made some mistakes along the way, but that's how you learn. Our first crown molding attempt?....not so good. The second?...light years better. But we also are pretty aware of what we don't want to. Some things, we won't touch...structural work (of course), electrical, and plumbing. Kudos to people who have the experience and knowledge to do some of the work themselves and save money.

Okay, this thread is getting ugly!!! So, speaking of ugly... who would like to help me with my disaster kitchen now that sueny4 is on track? I've learned so much from this posting and could really use your opinions and help! https://www.houzz.com/discussions/kitchen-reno-conundrumhead-spinningplease-help-dsvw-vd~873744

Sueny4, my husband is so handy and has taught me so much about home reno, but floor refinishing is something he is pretty adamant about not doing. I believe we can do a good job ourselves. With as much research as you did for kitchen, how would you advise on redoing the hardwood?

IF, and that's a big IF, your cabinets are structurally sound....RE-FACE them! Cabinet doors and drawer fronts are replaced with exactly what you want....It's a much cheaper route to go. Please look on youtube for examples. When it's my turn to do this, I will go this route for sure! :)

To Sueny4 ...
I was replying to Diyher, not you. In their case they had the experience and know how, as many Houzzers do, to take on such a big DIY project. Diyher mentioned $30,000 not me. Sueny4, You my friend, did your research, made your opinion and purchased based on your findings. That was the point I was trying to make. I was urging everyone to go out and see for themselves in order to have the know how to get the best they can. Good job!

BTW you are absolutely right, wood painted cabinets will show some cracks on the seems with time.
For 30k we could have done your custom cabinets, floors, counters, pluming, electrical and all the labor. If only you were in Ft. Lauderdale we would have loved the opportunity.

To Bubasgma, sorry auto correct on my iPad. Yes I might be slightly biased, but for the opposite reason you might think. In the past I worked in those big box stores mentioned before. That is why I could never in good conscious let my clients purchase from them. I know they look good and seem cheap, but from working there I know that there are higher quality products at a better price out there.

I knew I wasn't far off with saying $30,000+ for a kitchen :) It's what I am hearing many on houzz and some locals having everything in the kitchen done for them including installing lights.
RD3Designs, now that I know you live in FL, that explains the cost difference. Everything in FL is a lot cheaper in price to purchase.
Unfortunately, here in the North East, especially in the county I live, many things including construction are a LOT more expensive. The further North you go, the more expensive the housing and many other things associated to it.
I just remember 20 years ago a couple from CT owning a small Cape Cod style house was moving into our newly built neighborhood. She said she was shocked at how much more she could get and a much larger house for $225,000 in PA . Her small house half the size in square footage in CT in 1994 was selling for $225,000.
20 years later, these houses have more than doubled in price and some here say they could not afford to buy their house at the price it would sell for.

You are right that if you have no knowledge and know you can't even learn by research, then you should not take on the task.
One of the great things about Houzz is all the photos posted of decor and design that you can come up with ideas on what you would like. Years ago it was just buying decor magazines every month and look through the small amount of ideas compared to what we find here.

Every project I have ever done, especially when I started to have access to the internet in the early 90's I researched everything and learned new and better ways to do things.
My husband does most of the electrical in our house as far as installing lights, switches, outlets. He also does the plumbing, installing kitchen sinks, water heaters, fixing a toilet etc.
But he won't be doing our Silgranit undermount sink because he knows that is a process that is beyond him and has no room for error. The counter fabricator will be doing that for us.

RD3Designs, I didn't say I drove hours to a store :) I've seen the cabinets locally and heard many great reviews. I ordered online and the cabinets were delivered to my door by their company truck.

I don't mind doing a lot of extra work for things I can do. I'm not losing pay by spending the time working on it. I work for myself so this won't cut into my time of my business season.

PS: :) I saved $2,500 buying unfinished. If I had a local kitchen company order the same cabinets for me already stained and finished, and they would put them together for us and doing the install, that is where the cost would skyrocket to easily $25,000

to designgene on the particle board.

I disagree, Particleboard is not stronger than plywood. The reason we have had to buy new lower cabinets is because the sides were made of particle board. Just moisture around the sink even before we had a pipe problem, the particle board sides started to swell from the dampness.
Even the original counter-top from 1994 that is particle board with a laminate is swelling near the sink area.
Our 2 large boxed out windows in 2 other rooms with large deep windowsils, the builder used particle board and painted them. They too even though painted eventually started to swell and fall apart. We have to replace those too.
What we bought now are 3/4" thick plywood veneered sides for all exposed cabinets, and the inside cabinets not exposed in a bank of cabinets are 1/2" plywood.
I don't know how many cheap office cabinets and shelves we have replaced in 30 yrs all made of particle board we have tossed out. They don't last. I know for us, we plan to live in our house another 15 years, and hopefully even 20. I don't want to have to replace cabinets that fell apart because I went with particle board.

My last comment on this tread.

Don't compare estimates by who is the cheapest or most expensive quote. Go in with a number and ask
" what can you provide me for X amount of dollars".
That way you see where you money is going. Compare dollars per dollar. If you ask for a best price, everyone will be all over the place. It makes it hard to see why the prices vary so much.
At one place $20,000 may be the top end, in another place $20,000 It might be there low end. Try to go places ( if available) that have multiple cabinet lines where you can compare examples of each in one place.

If everyone's price is the same, it make it easier to see who is giving you a better value.
This way you will know what to compromise on and what to upgrade too.

Can use particleboard in a kitchen! Make a good sponge!

Stainless steel cabinets would be great in your kitchen. The price is affordable and we have a variety of finishes for the cabinet doors (stainless or acrylic). Check out our website (www.kitchencabinetscorp.com) for pictures and email us for a free quote. Mention houzz and code ELK for up to 50% discount!

I fell in love with a kitchen on Houzz. [houzz=]
The cabinetry is Mid Continent, when I contacted them I was given the name of 3 distributors in my area. One was an independent who worked a plan for me and because he has little to no overhead... the estimate appeared to be reasonable. Then, I priced the same layout with Lowe's using Kraftmaid (only company with the color I wanted) WOW, what a difference in price! The cabinetry alone at Lowe's was more than cabs, granite and install for the Mid Continent Line. I decided to use a mix of particle board and plywood, using plywood boxes on the 'wet wall'... (the sink and DW wall). My insurance company told me cabinetry reimbursement doesn't change for plywood vs particle board. I live in Florida on the Gulf... if my kitchen floods it's ALL a loss anyway! The kitchen gets ordered on Wed.!

We have Medallion, which is the same company as Lowe's Schuler. Our price quote was higher at Lowes. We love our Medallion Cabinetry. I'm sure you'll be happy.

Get a bid from a local cabinet shop or two. They fit better -custom fit - and should be cheaper because there is no mark up middle man.
Also, keep an open mind. Plywood faces and sides with particle board backs. Glued drawers that are well made will last and last. I have a rental with 31 year old drawers that still function great. The exact drawer guides are still available... and the drawers are pressed board with a solid wood front. but get plywood drawers...they dont have to be dove tailed, just well joined and glued.

Hi Sue,

Glad you have this figured out and have purchased you cabinets and hired a contractor!

I was interested in how you finally made the decision to go with the Lowes/Schuler cabinets since they were not ones you had originally mentioned.

So how did you decide between,

Schuler - 36" maple (white icing)
Candelight
Debut ($11,000 - original plans)
Kraftsmaid ($14,000 - original plans - cabinets on sale)
Homecest ($12,000 - original plans) Thought you were going with these

Were the Schuler your absolute favorite cabinets or did you just settle on them as the best for the price with a door frame and design that you liked? I thought more than one person said they were overpriced for the quality but you mentioned that you got a deal on the quartzite countertops (which one are you using?)

Are the Schuler doors solid maple or just the drawer fronts?

Also 150amp electrical sounds high. What are you upgrading to? We have 60mps and are concerned but so far no problem with close to 50 light fixtures, washer and dryer, Subzero, and two jacuzzi/bubble massage, and a Viking range on the way. We were looking to upgrade to 100amps.

Which contractor did you pick as you had bids with your original layout at $8,700, $16,000, and $23,000. I am assuming you did not go with the cheapest.

Please keep us updated and we want to see the final results.

Maybe in Florida 30k for custom cabinets, floors, counters, pluming, electrical and all the labor but not in the Northeast! You would be looking at 30K alone for custom cabinets in small kitchen and the labor mentioned with a new floor be over $20K and this does not cover any appliances, light fixtures, or tile.

I would keep cabinets if they are in decent shape. I would change/lighten the window treatment, paint the dining set cream, or get new, get new appliances before anything else. $$$$ well spent, Change out that dark rug...

Someone mentioned the different pricing in woods and I would like to know the order in terms of costs. We were surprised to get the same quote for stained cherry verses painted/stained cherry. We thought cherry would be much more expensive.

What is normal the order in terms of costs of the following. I understand there may be some overlap if one wood is painted and another is painted and stained (multiple coats).

Maple
Cherry
Mahogany
Oak
Alder
Walnut
Teak
Pine
Birch
Beech

Sue,

My other question has to do with your experience working with 3 (or 4) different kitchen designers at the same time knowing you weren't going to purchase from most of them. I understand in a big box store they may be on salary so sitting there all day anyway.

I am asking because we are now looking for a new contractor after the one we were planning on using (who just finished another job for us and has done other major work for us), turned down our project because we decided not to purchase the cabinets from their company. They did do some drawings at no cost (we didn't ask and noticed the professional designers who sell cabinets will give a base price based on pictures of your kitchen and a discussion on the number/type of cabinets, but aren't going to do drawings until you give them a non-refundable deposit). We met with this person 3 times (who ordered door samples we didn't request either) but decided the cabinets didn't work for us based on price/quality for mostly standard and some semi custom when what we really need is custom and the price is not much more. We still planned to hire them as the general contractor but received an email that they decided not to take the job.

So, I wanted to know if you plan to tell all the other designers that you decided to go in another direction, or do you feel you do not owe them anything? I understand these places do work without any obligation to purchase, but was just interested in your (and others) opinion. In our case we haven't actually hired anyone yet but decided to look at another option after reading this thread and realizing we only had one quote.

Different kinds of businesses dealing with kitchen renovations work with different business models. We started to work with a kitchen design center that drew up designs before asking for any financial commitment. We ended up hating their design and being shocked at the price, so we gave them a chance to address both issues. After alterations we still were not impressed by the design, were shocked that they hadn't adjusted the price, and so we moved on. I felt badly that they had invested time and not been compensated for it, but that is their business model and if they can't produce good designs or work within customer budgets, they don't deserve to be hired. While they were drawing up the second round of designs we began working with a custom woodworking firm and drew up our own design, which they used as a basis for taking more exact measurements and calculations to give us a quote. Their quote came within our budget for the quality and design we wanted all along. I did not feel any obligation to tell the first company that we were looking elsewhere for quotes. If they had produced good work they would have gotten the job.

Hi Jayne1313, We went with a flat-panel style door, so the frame is maple, but the center panel is not. Since they are painted, this doesn't really matter, and it's actually preferable because a solid wood center panel would expand and contract too much. Candlelight, Showplace, Kraftmaid, and Debut were all at the same custom kitchen place we went to. It's a small business, and we went there first because we really wanted to buy from them and keep the money with small business and local. Unfortunately, Candlelight, Showplace, and even Kraftmaid were above what we could afford....and Debut only had a 5 yr. warranty and did not offer soft-close hinges and drawers. They also were a new line coming into the showroom, so there was no display for us to see and test out. Debut was the only one in our price range, so we spent a couple weeks going over the Kraftmaid line and trying to bring the price down by taking extras out, eliminating crown molding (and having our contractor do that), etc. The price was still too high, so we started looking elsewhere. We went to another kitchen design place, small business, in town. They steered us toward Homecrest Cabinetry, but I was concerned about the painted finish after I went to see a newly installed kitchen and thought the finish looked a little overly shiny and plastic. The door sample they let us take home also had a lot of cracking along the mitered corners...another concern since the least expensive Homecrest door we liked had....mitered corners! We talked these concerns over with the kitchen designer who tried to reassure us.

Long story, and I'm probably repeating myself....but, we also were getting quartz pricing from the first place (very high) and second place (almost as high). We were limited to whatever color/pattern happened to be on sale in order to afford quartz, and I wasn't thrilled that I didn't have choices. In the meantime, we decided to go check out pricing for quartz at Lowes and struck up a conversation with the kitchen designer there who seemed (of course) very interested in drawing up a plan for our kitchen. Turns out, he's the same guy we bought our laundry room cabinets from a few years ago. He put together a really nice plan for the kitchen and suggested if we were interested in painted cabinets, we should check out Schuler Cabinetry which has the nicest paint finish out of all his cabinet lines. We liked what we saw, picked out a door style we liked, and went back a couple days later to sit down and go over pricing. He was able to get the cost equal to what we were being quoted for Homecrest and let us take a door home to compare with the Homecrest door we already had. That sealed the deal. The Schuler door was better constructed and had a nice soft white finish that wasn't glossy and harsh. The back of the Homecrest door actually felt a little rough to the touch compared to the Schuler door. On top of the great price they gave us, they also gave us a significant discount on quartz countertops, either Allen & Roth or Silestone.....OR granite. We now had choices! In the meantime, after the first kitchen place realized we were looking elsewhere, they got back to us with pricing for Kraftmaid that matched Homecrest and Schuler! Somehow, he found discounts and was able to change a few things and came down $4,000. Unfortunately, at that point we were sold on Schuler and also had a good deal on quartz countertops. So THAT'S how we came to our decision!! :) It wasn't without trying to go the small-town local business route, but in the end, we had to go where the savings was. If we felt that we weren't getting decent quality cabinets, we wouldn't have bothered. We still hate that we went "big box", but we are happy with the quality of the cabinets we decided on. If our budget had allowed, we totally would have gone for the Candlelight cabinets...they were beautiful!

If anyone who has commented here would like to follow our kitchen renovation project, I'll be starting a new thread under my name shortly. The old cabinets are coming out, being given to someone else who can reuse them. Our contractor starts in another week. It feels like it's been in the works forever, but it's finally coming together. Thanks to everyone who has given us advice along the way!

Sue

Would love to follow your renovation. Please provide the link.

Best wishes on your job. It will be great!

Most cabinet door manufacturers that I buy from will also sell to the public, which adds an option to the DIYer. Buy the bases from whichever retailer you prefer, even mixing and matching uppers with lowers, mixed up corner units etc.
Buy the doors from the same or competing manufacturer.
Purchase them unfinished and do them yourself if you are staining, or find a spray refinisher to paint them with a water borne lacquer.
Ive seen customers pre paint or stain all or most of the kitchen pcs before careful installation, and touch up corners, edges, afterwards.
Envision your kitchen as if its Lego, and realize that many sizes are universal, even if they come from different sources.
One way to beef up the structure of MDF boxes is to have your local millwork store cut replacement back sections, especially for uppers, from ply or MDF and fit them inside the backs of each box. Pre drill and screw into them from the outsides of the boxes before installing.Upper boxes are often mounted securely on the walls, however, increasingly and certainly foolishly, 1 inch finishing nails hold the original 1/4 inch ply backing onto the back edges of the boxes, and after years of house shift and cabinet content weight, they pull away from the wall. The back remains on the wall very well though. Stupid design!
Most door manufacturers around us in Toronto Ontario will make drawers from either wood or MDF, and many make dovetail. They also sell all the hardware necessary, including all types of hinges, glides, slide out inserts, valances, corbels etc.
Careful measurement and drawings, and installation if needed, if they cant be done by the homeowner, should be able to be done by an experienced handyman found in local ads.
Homestars.com is a wealth of customer rated contractors.
As cabinet refinishers, we usually come in at the end of kitchen projects, and are sometimes surprised at the ingenuity and gumption of 1st time homebuyers who could afford the house, but not the reno.
I recently sprayed a large kitchen of high quality maple, 42 inch high Selco cabinets that a women had bought at Habitat for Humanity, for under $5000. They were originally green, and we sprayed them white. She hired a handy man to install them for $800. At 40 doors, we charged her $4000 to refinish them. A local carpenter added crown and valance for $500. Total cost was about $10,000.
Even if she had bought the boxes new, and had new doors made and painted the entire job still would have cost about $20,000, or roughly half of new.
I couldn't tell the difference when we left and neither could she.
I wish Id taken a picture.
cheers
Greg

wow Greg, that is exactly what happened to 2 or our wall cabinets about 8 years ago. The cabinet fell off the wall but the back was still mounted. It's what started us to have to replace cabinets when we could afford it. I bought all unfinished from Conestoga and staining them now and will be doing a spray finish on them in a week or so. Spray painting the new upper doors to. Saved a bundle

DIYher: clever name. R u spraying or a pro? Always interested to know what product yr using too?

When getting kitchen cabinet quotes, I found Menards to have the best price. They print a detailed list of your cost all broken down. You can save about 12% if you purchase your cabinets when they have a sale. You can compare the cost of different trim styles. Or even the different door styles can really change your total price. I went back to menards to tweak things about 6 different times before we were exactly where we wanted to be, cosmetically and budget wise.

When I painted the old 20yo doors the first time, I hand painted them. But once I knew we liked the antique white uppers instead of the old oak, I bought new unfinished hard maple paint grade replacement doors with new Conestoga Wood Specialty doors. The old door edge frame thickness wasn't the same as the 4 new doors I had bought last year and inserted glass. So wanted them to at least have the same style frames. I bought a Graco TruCoat II http://www.graco.com/us/en/products/contractor/truecoat-pro-ii-cordless-sprayer.html $499 think it was about $40 off on sale, and at the time Graco had I think a $70 rebate or a 3rd free battery. I took the $70 off since it came with 2 batteries anyway.

I sprayed Zinsser Primer-Sealers, then SW ProClassic Interior Acrylic Latex Enamel sanding with 400 grit between coats, 2 total, sometimes 3 if I needed to get it smoother.

For the lowers, I stained with General Finishes oil stain onto the Cherry cabinets. I waited 1 week or more (been busy) to start with the Enduro Var top coat in satin, probably at least 3 coats sanding 400-600 grit between coats.

This is the largest stain and paint project I have done in the 35 years I have been doing this on a personal level.

DIYher
very interesting that a home owner would buy a $500 gun and spray their own materials. I dont often run across that kind of confindence. Good for you.
Were U happy with the finish quality?
I have an airless gun but use it only for larger, textured surfaces, as I find the HVLP works best for fine finishes.
BTW, Sherwin Williams has a product called Kem Aqua, a water borne acrylic lacquer, that sprays out better than paints, dries in 5 minutes to the touch, and is harder than oil paint.
Not bad for cabinets, especially higher traffic/wear areas.
It doesnt roll or brush well, as it dries too fast to lay flat, and must be applied in 70 degree F temp. Its VOC rating is about the same as regular wall paint.
Another paint that can be used by DIYers, without spray equipment is C2 with Polywhey added. Water it down till its the consistency of light maple syrup, and roll it on with a pre washed micro fibre 4 inch roller. Tough as nails because of the Polywhey. Only C2 retails this paint.

Cabinet Refinishers - Where was this conversation when I was re-doing my kitchen cabinets! (4 years ago mind you) Would have loved the opprtunity to talk over the options before I started. I sprayed a waterborne lacquer (MLCampbell) and loved the results. I remember reading about SW Kem Aqua around that time, but I feel like that might have been after the project. I know I did contact SW about one of their products but no one here would see it to me as a wasn't a "pro". Something like the C2 would have been great to consider - easier than the prep for the parts sprayed in place in my house.

I figured the $500 / $420 with rebate :) would be worth the effort and get more professional results since at the time we can't afford an actual professional to do the work. We are only having them make our black walnut countertop and install our Quartz countertop. My husband is doing the plumbing, electric, and both of us are installing the cabinets.
I'll try the Kem-Aqua when I paint the laundry room cabinets. We have plans to buy unfinished for that room too, probably 4-5 cabinets tops. Kem-Aqua reminded me of 50 some years ago when my parents painted and I remember them buying SW Kem-Glo. I wonder if it's the same thing :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/191119806212?lpid=82

I think now that we have the Graco, it will get some good use and will be using it for our 2 garage doors and 2 back doors.
I also do art festivals on weekends end of April from 1st weekend in December. So for the canvas floater frames, spraying the finish would be a lot faster than hand applying 3 coats.

Forgot to mention, so far only used the Graco for painting, haven't actually used it for the top coat yet. I bought a fine finish tip, and also purchased an atomizer that you can insert inside that is supposed to give you a finer finish. I tend to do a LOT of research before i do things and even learn new and better ways of doing what I have done in the past .

If the wind dies down the next few days, I'm going to start spraying the finish on 2 of my kitchen cabinets.

Here is one door from my center island in the SW semi gloss Sea Salt. [houzz=]

and another photo from last year of the wall cabinet but have since finished painting the inside also antique white since I took this photo. We are adding a corner diagonal cabinet to the right of the one closest cabinet in the photo. [houzz=]

Many homeowners get confused with these differences in price because they assume the actual cabinet construction is the same. It is important to look at the overall design of the cabinet boxes and especially the materials they use. Just like melamine, there are different qualities of plywood. Another important factor would be how its fastened together... is it simply stapled or is it glued and doweled in place?

Hello! I'm the original poster! If anyone is interested in following my kitchen renovation, here is the link. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/my-kitchen-renovation-its-all-about-the-details-now-dsvw-vd~956344

you are right Delton, so may look on how pretty and maybe even functional as in organized a cabinet may look but don't know to look way beyond that. Ours are dove tailed, I had to slide in the sides and backs, glued them and also used 1 1/2" or 1 " staple gun depending on what side I was stapling. Was this the bracing mentioned that is sturdier?

thanks Sue, I was wondering if their were updated :)

I know this is an old thread, but I just have to say that IKEA is great. Even if you don't have one near you, adding the cost of a Uhaul and a motel stay to an IKEA kitchen purchase is still probably much cheaper than cabinets from other places. Plus it would be an adventure!

I would be great if you could get the confirm email off the middle of the page.

jefa621, when we had our new countertop installed earlier this year, I was talking to the installer about remodels and he told me that in his experience, Ikea cabinets are falling apart after 5 years. There isn't an Ikea here, and it's not my style so I don't have a dog in the fight, just want to present the other side of the Ikea story.

ok, We are in the midst of a total kitchen gut. down to bare walls, tucked the fridge in a closet and rethought a lot of traditional things including a freezer drawer, glass front commercial fridge and induction cooktop combined with griddle top. Kitchen went from a 14 x 8 rectangle to a 14 x 8 open plan with a large island. Saved money by going with 17 Ikea cabinets ($4500) high gloss white (which fronts are made in Italy by the way) Managed to load 78 boxes (packed flat) in a short bed p/u... Found quartz countertop remnant for half the price installed ($1700 instead of $3700 and saved on high end vinyl that looks like wood found at habitat, because it will have an old oriental over it .anyway....kitchen will be drop dead gorgeous...Moral, it takes work and persistence but it can be done for less, Splurge on one or two things you love and search for 1/2 off like crazy and it can be done to look like it cost 50k!!!

PS I did grow up in Europe so I am very used to cabinets that look and act like furniture..

For a new construction, we bought cabinets that were from a display at a kitchen design show. They were for sale on Craigslist. The $50,000 of cabinets cost us $3,000 plus 500 for the cost of the rental truck and someone to help us unload. Our previous "new" kitchen was used and in beautiful shape. They were high end lacquer italian cabinets listed on ebay. Some people just have too much money and want to change because their stuff isn't the latest and greatest. We received so many compliments on those used cabinets--came with awesome granite too for a fraction of the price. If you live anywhere near a city, I recommend you hunt for bargains in these creative ways. Don't rush. You might have to compromise on your design, and it might take some time, but it is worth it.

The reality is that kitchen renovations are expensive. I always caution clients to avoid trying to find cheaper and cheaper cabinets. Most of the time you get what you pay for. My advise is to reuse as much of your existing kitchen as possible.

There is so much work that goes into getting a kitchen ready for all new cabinets. All the behind the scenes wiring, plumbing and gas lines need to be ready for the new kitchen layout.

Look into getting new cabinets doors and hinges for your existing cabinets. You will be able to substantially reduce your budget to free up some money for new counter tops and appliances.

I don't have time to read all the comments, but my advice would be to put together your own cabinet plan (can be one you already have) so you are pricing the same options from each company.
Get more estimates! If they are all over the place, get several more estimates (again, of your same plan, make copies) until you see a pattern or get several within the same range. I interviewed 13 for this renovation. I threw out the highs ($70k!! For labor!!) and lows and the rest came within $5k of each other.
Also think outside the box. I ordered cabinets from a surplus building warehouse and saved over half of what they were priced elsewhere.

cassandra i understand not wanting to reading *every* comment, but you should check the date before you begin... the OP posted this over two years ago.

Apparently this is an old thread; not sure why it popped to the top of my feed today. :/

One advantage of using the big boxes is favorable credit terms. I am in the home stretch of a simple kitchen renovation (mostly just new cabinets, appliances, backsplash, and granite countertops), which included nothing fancy (no tearing down of walls, and the new cabinets following the same basic footstep). Despite that, this project is nearing its sixth month. Like many have stated: be aware, when you start the teardown, you will uncover much substandard half-*** work that was previously done . But back to my original point: I went with Home Depot, and the biggest benefit has been their favorable credit terms -- depending on how much you spend, 6 months to 2+ years interest free...that was a big help on my $20k project.

Anyhow, it gives me some satisfaction knowing that this 1960 house I have now lived in for just over 2 years is in much better condition (both the parts you can see and the parts you can't) than it was when I moved in.