Grout haze or grout smears as it is often called can be a huge problem when laying tiles. Grout haze is basically grout that has been left to dry on the surface of the tile after installation. It’s a common problem which is exacerbated by the use of quick drying products. Take for example this interesting Wood Effect Ceramic Tile installation at a house in Guildford following installation by a builder. I was a bit slow in following up on the initial enquiry as we had been very busy so by the time, I got in touch I was told they had employed someone else to carry out the work. I apologised for my late response and said to call me if he needed help in the future. Three days later I got a call so we arranged a visit so that I could carry out a test and quote a price. As it turns out the builder had returned and failed to remove the grout haze and so had a rival firm that seemed more interested in selling unnecessary sealer than fixing the problem. I was astonished to see what a state the builder had left his floor. Grout was all over the floor with footprints walked across thresholds and more. I could understand it if there was some grout was missed after installation but not to this level! I carried out a successful test and confirmed to the customer that there was absolutely no need to rip and replace his £2k floor. We agreed a date to resolve the problem and to say he was relieved was an understatement! The builders had used Mapei grout which contains polymers. Polymers offer better flexibility and adhesion, however in order to remove the grout haze we would first need to break down the polymers in the grout first and this is why the rival firm failed. With that in mind, my first action was to apply Tile Doctor Remove and Go to the floor and leave it to dwell for five to ten minutes. I then worked it into the tile using a scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. After washing the soil away with warm water and extracting with a wet vacuum I applied Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up to treat the grout. Grout Clean-up is an acid-based product that breaks down the grout so it can be rinsed away and extracted as before. Afterwards I rinsed the floor with warm water and extracted again to remove any trace of product and neutralise the floor. After removing as much moisture as possible with the wet vacuum I speed dried the tiles with a blower. Ceramic tiles won’t accept a sealer so once the floor had dried the job was finished and it took less than a day. The customer was over the moon with the difference. While his floor was in such a state, he has been unable to bring in new furniture as the serious possibility of removing the tiles was hanging over him. Relieved that the problem was now resolved he kindly left the following review: “I had a floor that had just been laid with very heavy grout haze. I had already had advice from two other professional floor cleaners who had advised me that the floor was irreparable and would need to be pulled up. As soon as I spoke with Rupert, it was clear he was extremely knowledgeable. He asked questions none of the other companies had. By understanding the specific nature of the problem, he was able to solve it by first removing the grout polymers and then applying an acid wash. The floor came up brilliantly. Rupert was the only person I spoke to that could fix this, everyone else told me I needed to replace my floor! Superbly knowledgeable, professional and did an excellent job. Don’t bother speaking to anyone else, just call Rupert! “ Rupert Mcleod West Surrey Tile Doctor

Inspiration for a landscaping in Denver.

This customer had just moved into a property in Chesham around eighteen months ago. During that time, they had completely renovated the property and in the process had pulled up the hallway carpet to discover a lovely Victorian tiled floor which appeared to be in good condition but very dirty. Period features like these can add a lot of value to a house these days and so they decided to investigate having it professionally cleaned and contacted me for a quote. Although I can give some indication of price over the phone you never know exactly what to expect so my preference is to visit the property a conduct a test clean. It’s a little trickier to do this now due to COVID-19 but using a combination of PPE, maximum ventilation and social distancing measures I was able to work on the floor. The tiles were in good order with no replacements needed so my focus would be removing carpet adhesive and ingrained dirt. The test went well, and I followed up with a quotation which was accepted, and a date arranged to do the work. I had worked out previously that the quickest was to deep clean the floor and remove the glue and any old seal was to apply Tile Doctor Remove and Go which as its name suggests is a coatings removed designed for Tiled floors. My method was to spray strong a dilution of Remove and Go onto the Victorian tiles and leave it to soak in for fifteen minutes. Then it was scrubbed in with a black scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. The soil was rinsed off using a minimal of water and extracted with a wet vacuum. Once the floor had dried, I inspected the tiles and could see more work would be needed to get the white tiles really sparkling. For this I went over the floor using a 200-grit resurfacing pad using water to lubricate the process, I also used handheld burnishing blocks of different grits to do the edges. With this extra effort and another rinse with water to remove the soil the floor looked great, and so I left for the day so it could dry out ready for sealing. I came back the next day and started by taking moisture readings with a damp meter to ensure the tiles were dry and ready for sealing. This is important as you don’t want to apply sealer to a damp tile and old floors can suffer from damp issues due to the lack of a damp proof membrane. All was well with the floor, so I was able to move straight onto sealing which started with the application of a single coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This is an impregnating sealer that soaks into the pores of the tile enhancing colour and adding protection. Once this had dried, I followed up with another seven coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go which adds further protection and leaves a nice subtle sheen to the tiles. This product works really well on old Victorian Tiles like these and being water based it doesn’t leave a smell as it dries. Andrew Newstead South Buckinghamshire Tile Doctor

I received this Tile Doctor enquiry from a customer in the historic market town of Kidderminster who had a Victorian Minton Tiled hallway floor that had been covered in carpet for a long time. The carpet had since been removed and now the floor was fully exposed you could see it was covered in carpet glue and dirty with ingrained grime. I arranged an appointment to inspect the floor thoroughly and provide a quote; you can never be sure what issues you might find, so surveying the floor first ensures I can give an accurate price. As anticipated the entire floor was covered in thick glue, fortunately apart from a few loose tiles the floor was in good order. I explained to the client the process I would use on the floor and that I was confident the floor could be restored for them. My quote was accepted, and we arranged a date to carry out the work. I often get customers claiming to have an original Minton Tiled floor however there were many manufacturers creating similar patterns at the end of the 19th century, the only way to be certain is to lift a tile and look to see what’s stamped on the back. In this case we had a few loose ones that needed relaying, so I was able to confirm that quite easily. I arrived on the booked day and the first step was to tape up the surrounding area to prevent any damage from splashing. I was then ready to tackle the glue. I applied a strong solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go and covered the floor with industrial cling film to allow the solution to get to work without drying out. The film was removed after an hour and then the Remove and Go was worked into the tiles using a coarse 200-grit milling pad to cut through the glue and resurface the tiles. Afterwards the floor was rinsed with water and the soil removed with a wet vacuum. Some of the glue proved very stubborn to remove and had to be dealt with carefully by hand using an industrial scraper, sometimes a bit of elbow grease is the only way to get the job done. The floor was then given an Acid Rinse with Tile Doctor Acid Gel, this is designed to further clean the tiles and counter any efflorescent salts that might be present in the tiles due to the lack of damp proof membrane. After another rinse and soil removal I turned my attention to the loose tiles which were secured by removing the tile, scraping out the adhesive and re-fixing. The appearance of the floor was much improved after day and the floor was then left overnight to dry out in preparation or the sealing process. Returning the next day, I first checked the floor was dry using a damp meter. Once I was satisfied it was dry, I started to seal the floor. I had selected to use Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra for sealing. It adds a richness to the colour of the tiles and a subtle sheen finish. I applied three coats, waiting for each one to dry before applying the next. The pattern on the floor was really nice and the colours were now very vibrant. The client was very pleased and left a great review copied below: “Our floor wasn’t easy as it had some form of coating on it which was difficult to remove but Mark took a lot of time to ensure the surface was thoroughly clean before the sealant was put down. Very pleased with how it looks. K. B, Kidderminster” Mark Conway Worcestershire Tile Doctor

I received a call from this client in Old Marston around two miles north east of the centre of Oxford. They had lifted a lino floor in their kitchen and found an old Quarry Tiled floor underneath and decided to see if they could have it restored. I went over to survey the floor and could see that the tiles had been covered with a thin layer of levelling screed to ensure the lino didn’t sink into the recesses. I ran some tests to demonstrate how the screed could be removed which worked well and it was apparent that the tiles underneath were intact and could be renovated. I submitted a quotation for removing all the screed, deep cleaning the Quarry tiles and then sealing the tiles to protect them. The client was really pleased that we could restore the floor and the quote was accepted, with a date booked to do the work. To start the work, I applied undiluted Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up worked in with a small carbide brush attached to a hand-held rotary buffer. The combination of the acid in the Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up combined with the scrubbing action of the brush were effective at removing most of the screed. The small bits of remaining screed were carefully removed by hand, using a floor scraper. The floor was then rinsed with water and the soil removed with a wet vacuum. For the second phase of the cleaning process I applied Tile Doctor Oxy-Gel which was scrubbed into the floor with a stiff brush rinsing after with water and the soil extracted again using the wet vacuum. After cleaning the floor to remove the dirt I could still see some evidence of the screed on the tiles, so I decided to give the floor an Acid Wash using Tile Doctor Acid Gel which was scrubbed into the floor and rinsed off as before. Tile Doctor Acid Gel is of course an acidic product so once it was removed, I decided to rinse the floor with Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner to neutralise the pH levels in the floor. The wet vacuum was used again to remove as much moisture from the Quarry tiles as possible before leaving the now clean floor to dry off fully overnight. I returned to seal this floor the next day. First, I checked the floor was fully dry with the damp meter, it was within the recommended range, so I was ready to complete the sealing process. The client was not too sure if they wanted a matt or sheen finish, so I first put a coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow on the floor to show them the matt finish. Colour Grow is an impregnating sealer that enhances natural colour and protects from within by occupying the pores in the tile. After reviewing the floor, they decided it was not for them, so I followed up by applying several coats of Tile Doctor Seal & Go which adds a nice sheen finish and is compatible with Colour Grow. The combination of sealers worked very well together, and they were very satisfied with the final result and of course that we had been able to restore the Quarry tiles. Barry Woodward Oxfordshire Tile Doctor

Adding woodchips underneath your trees has many benefits. Some of these benefits include: -soil moisture retention -nutrient leaching when decomposing over time -smother weeds and invasive plants But before you add any woodchips to your gardens and trees, it’s important to make sure you aerate the root zone. Doing so improves the oxygen supply and leaching to the roots. You will see more growth when there is more oxygen. Our team at Five Star Tree Services has come up with a guide on how you can use woodchips in your gardens. Where To Place Woodchips Even though there are many benefits for your trees, there is a right and wrong way to use them. If used incorrectly, you can actually end up hurting your tree instead of helping it. This can happen when there is an excessive amount piled up around a tree, its roots, and the trunk. Woodchips should never touch the trunk of a tree for extended periods of time. What happens is that moisture is retained in the chips and will eventually cause the tree to rot. The end result is death if not caught in time. An indication of rot and decay is fruiting bodies or mushrooms. It is important to keep an eye out for these indicators by taking a good look at your trees. To avoid this situation, make sure to evenly and carefully spread out the chips around the root zone. Clear any chips away from the trunk by an inch or two. When applied correctly; you will see your trees thrive and prosper. They will stay healthy and vivacious from the moisture retention and gradual organic leaching. Soil Compaction Soil compaction can dramatically affect your trees. This is often an overlooked issue for many landscapers. Due to things like foot traffic, large amounts of rain, construction, and the use of heavy machinery, are all factors that result in soil compaction. Things like water and nutrients can’t saturate through the soil when it becomes too compact. This results in soil that is without minerals and dry. When this happens, tree roots struggle to push through the soil, resulting in stressed trees. Preventing Soil Compaction If a tree is left in compacted soil, it will eventually die. One way to avoid this if you are having any construction done in your yard is to set up a Tree Protection Zone, or TPZ. Fences are used to create a barrier where heavy equipment and machinery can’t go in. When heavy machinery is used, this creates extremely compact soil and has been known to crush roots. How Five Star Tree Services Can Help Using woodchips is a great way to help your gardens thrive. But it is vitally important to use it properly, otherwise you will end up hurting your trees, instead of helping them. If you require any Richmond Hill Tree Care Services, don’t hesitate to give us at Five Star Tree Services a call at (416) 990-3355!

The photographs below are from a bathroom in Maida Vale W9 which had a lovely Slate tiled wall over a bath with shower. Unfortunately, the Slate tiles had been ruined by the use of harsh cleaning chemicals in an attempt to remove the limescale caused by hard water. The slate had now lost all its natural colour and looked completely washed out. The property had recently changed hands and the new owner was keen to have it renovated. I went over to take a look and work out a solution, this in itself is a lot trickier these days with all the COVID precautions we need to take when working in someone’s house. It was clear that a strong acidic limescale remover had been used on the slate and this had etched the stone, leached all the natural oils away and generally ruined its appearance. Fortunately, we have a solution for this (see below) and after conducting a small test I was able to confirm the problem could be resolved and gave them a quote which included a day’s labour, abrasive pads, stone oil and sealer. Our quote was gratefully accepted, and we booked a time in to carry out the work. I returned to the property and I set about burnishing the slate wall tiles using a very coarse 200-grit six-inch burnishing pad fitted to a handheld buffing machine. This process resurfaces the stone slightly to remove the etching caused by the limescale remover. I used a medium dilution of Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up to lubricate the process and to remove the remaining limescale. Once done the slurry that is generated is rinsed off with more water. In a bathroom, it is easy the slurry can just be drained away. In other areas we would use a wet vacuum. After the 200-grit pad the surface of the Slate was further refined using a 400-grit pad and then an 800-grit pad, this time only using water and giving the stone a thorough rinse after each pad to remove the soil. The slate was then left to dry off over lunch and given more encouragement with a heat gun afterwards so I could move onto the next step. This involved applying a coat of Tile Doctor Stone Oil which puts back the natural oils back into the stone improving its appearance. Once the Stone Oil had fully dried, I moved onto sealing for which I applied two coats of Tile Doctor Ultra-Seal; this is penetrating sealer that soaks into the stone to provide maximum stain protection without changing the colour of the stone. It is also an excellent grout sealer which is a bonus. Before leaving I talked the client about how best to maintain the Slate and left them a complimentary bottle of Tile Doctor Aqua Pro tile cleaner which will help keep the limescale at bay. It is gentle enough to use every day but will help prevent the previous build-up and unlike the previous products used will not damage the newly applied sealer. Jackson Davis Central London Tile Cleaning

This is a large 17.2 m2 Sandstone Floor installed throughout the living and kitchen areas of a property in the beautiful village of Disley close to Lyme Park which is run by the National Trust. The floor had been installed four years ago and my client was unhappy with the original sealer which hadn’t lasted very long. Without the protection of a sealer dirt had become ingrained in the pores of the stone which was now difficult to clean. Another issue was the rough nature of the Sandstone meant it was impossible to mop as it shreds the mop! As a result, the floor was mainly cleaned with a hoover which was not ideal, especially in a kitchen. I went over to survey the floor and before quoting I ran a small test clean in the kitchen which took the floor back to its natural pale colour and really showed how dirty the floor had become. Test cleans are great as it helps me to formulate an effective cleaning plan and provide an accurate quote. My client was impressed with the result and so I was booked to come back and deep clean and then reseal the whole floor. Due to its size I estimated the floor would take two days to deep clean and a further day to apply a new sealer, so three days in total. Working in large sections I started by cleaning the floor and stripping off the old sealer with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a coatings remover that is safe to use on stone. The solution was left to soak into the pores of the Sandstone for ten minutes before being worked in with a 200-grit diamond pad fitted to a rotary floor machine. This action not only removed the old sealer and cleaned the floor but the 200-grit pad being vey coarse removed a lot of the roughness from the surface of the Sandstone so it shouldn’t shred any more mops. After rinsing the floor with water and removing the slurry with a wet vacuum I set about cleaning the grout with Tile Doctor Pro-Clean worked into the grout line with a stiff brush and assisted with steam from a professional steam cleaner with a grout attachment. Once done the floor was rinsed and extracted again to remove the soil from the grouting. There was also an area near one of the doors where the grout had become loose and needed replacing so I made up a batch of matching grout and filled this in. The floor was then left overnight to dry with assistance from a couple of air movers. I returned the next day to finish the floor by applying a sealer. First, I double checked the floor was dry with the damp meter. The readings confirmed the air movers had done a good job and that the floor was within the accepted parameters, so I was ready to seal. The sealer I chose was Tile Doctor Seal and Go which being water based doesn’t leave a smell as it dries, it really works well on Sandstone and adds a nice subtle sheen to the stone. Once finished the floor looked much cleaner, lighter in colour overall more inviting, you could even see the fossils in some of the tiles. The surface was also smoother so the customer should find cleaning with a mop much easier in future. On that subject its worth pointing out that owners of sealed floors should always use a neutral pH tile cleaner on their floors as most supermarket products are simply too strong and will prematurely strip the sealer off a tile if used repeatedly. Tile Doctor sell a product called Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is ideal for cleaning sealed Sandstone floors like this one. My client was really happy with the results and sent me a message later saying: “the floor looks amazing!” Kamila Logonzy East Cheshire Tile Doctor

I was asked to look at renovating a shower cubicle at a property in in Manchester city centre that had been clad in White Limestone tiles. I understood the bathroom had been installed 12 years prior, but now the tiles were looking grubby, mouldy and dirty. The client had lived at the property for the last two years and in an attempt to resolve the problems had used a few different household products such as flash and bleach, they had tried everything, and nothing had helped. I suspected that these strong acidic cleaners had actually made the problem worse by stripping off what was left of the sealer that was protecting the Limestone, allowing dirt to become ingrained in the stone. I visited the property and ran a few cleaning tests in the shower cubicle with Tile Doctor products. This allows me to see which product will have the best results and gives the customer confidence that we can resolve their issues. The results were immediate, they could see the difference and they were happy to accept my quote and agree a date for my return to complete the work. I arrived several weeks later and made a start. The tiles were scrubbed by hand with a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go with excellent results. This product is designed to remove coatings and sealers, and in this case, it did a great job of drawing out the ingrained stains and dirt build-up. This removed what was left of the sealer and took off most of the dirt and mould. The Limestone tiles and grout were then rinsed with water to remove the soil. Next I needed to restore the smooth surface of the limestone which had been etched by the use of strong acidic cleaning products. To do this I used a set of six-inch diamond burnishing pads attached to a hand buffer to hone and restore the stone. I then dried the shower tiles and grout with a heat gun checking the moisture levels with damp meter until I was satisfied it was completely dry. The last step was to re-seal the Limestone and Grout using a couple of coats of Tile Doctor Colour Grow. This is natural coloured intensifying sealer which provides durable protection to the surface allowing it to breathe and enhancing the colours. The Customer was amazed with the difference and left the following feedback! “Kamila was friendly, professional and kept me informed about what to expect before she took on the job and during the tile cleaning. The tiles look absolutely amazing after her work – I feel as though I have a brand new bathroom! Kamila also gave me helpful tips on looking after limestone tiles. I can’t recommend her highly enough.” For future cleaning I recommended the use of Tile Doctor Aqua-Pro which is a pH neutral shower tile cleaner designed for use on sealed surfaces. Most cleaning products you find in supermarkets are overly strong and will erode the sealer prematurely, so when choosing a cleaning product always read the label and make sure it’s safe to use on Sealed Stone tiles. Alex Logonzy Greater Manchester Tile Doctor

Our client had recently moved to a property in Newport, Gwent and when removing the carpet in the hallway she discovered this beautiful Victorian Tiled floor. The property had numerous period features and realising the value that the floor could add to the property she was keen to have it restored and so contacted Tile Doctor for help. We popped round to survey the floor and except for a couple of broken tiles it had preserved well under the carpet. It was a shame the previous owner had covered the floor over but I was confident we could source some matching tiles to replace the broken ones and then restore the overall appearance. We gave the client a quote for the work which would take a couple of days. Pleased to hear that the floor could be restored and that it could soon be on show the quote was accepted and a date set to do the work. We returned later the same month to renovate the floor and started by removing the broken tiles, cleaning out the old grout and adhesive and then relaying matching replacements. There are several specialist suppliers that can supply Victorian tiles so we can usually source reclaimed or reproduction tiles. Some of the grout lines had dropped so as well as grouting around the replacement tiles more renovation work was needed to ensure the grout was level. We used quick setting products for this work, so I was able to move on to cleaning the floor later that afternoon. To restore the appearance of the Victorian Tiles I used a strong dilution of Tile Doctor Pro-Clean combined with Tile Doctor Remove and Go which was left to soak in for ten minutes before being scrubbed into the tiles. This created a powerful cleaner/stripper cocktail which gets to work at removing dirt, grime and breaking down old sealers paint splashes. After extracting the soil using a wet vacuum the floor was inspected. There were a few stubborn areas which were treated to a repeat clean and a wire brush to get the floor as clean as possible. The floor was rinsed with water to remove any trace of cleaning products and then as much moisture as possible was extracted using a wet vacuum. The floor was left to dry off overnight and we arranged to return the next day to apply a sealer. The following morning, we checked the floor was dry using a damp meter and this confirmed we were good to apply the sealer. The floor was sealed with Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is an impregnating sealer that protects the floor and enhances the beautiful colours in the tile. Three coats of the sealer were applied allowing each coat to dry before applying the next. The client was very happy with the result and how beautiful the floor looked as you can see from the picture. Paul Wales Monmouthshire Tile Doctor

This was a rather dirty Terracotta kitchen floor located at a house in Winchmore Hill in Buckinghamshire, not to be confused with the Winchmore Hill in London. The sealer on the tiles had worn off some time ago and now the dirt was becoming trapped in the pores of the Terracotta making it impossible to clean. Deep Cleaning Terracotta Tile To deep clean into the pores of the Terracotta a diluted solution of Tile Doctor Pro Clean, which is a strong tile cleaner sage to use on tiled floors, was applied to kitchen floor and left to soak in for around ten minutes. Then with the aid of a commercial rotary machine the solution was scrubbed into the tiles to release the many years of accumulated ingrained soiling which was removed from the floor using a wet vacuum. Although this deep cleaned the tile the grout lines needed further attention and were treated with Tile Doctor Grout Clean-up solution and then washed down with fresh water which was removed with a wet vacuum. There was still evidence of sealer remaining on the floor in some areas so the next step in the process was to apply Tile Doctor Remove and Go again working it into the tile using a scrubbing pad fitted to a rotary machine. Remove and Go as its name suggests is used to remove waxes and sealants from tile and stone. It certainly did the job and once the resultant slurry was vacuumed up and the floor given a final rinse to remove any chemicals used in the process the floor was looking much cleaner and left to dry overnight ready for our return Sealing Terracotta Tile The next day came back to do the sealing and checked the floor first for any spots we might had missed and also to ensure it had dried sufficiently. Tile Doctor Seal and Go was then applied in coats to fully seal the floor. As well as adding protection Seal and Go adds a nice subtle satin finish to Terracotta and being water based it doesn’t give off an odour when it’s drying.

We were contacted by a customer in West Kirby who needed help renovating a Victorian tiled hallway in a house they had just purchased. Kirby is a desirable seaside location North of Heswall that expanded with the arrival of the railway in 1848. The railway brought a demand for property and so it’s not unusual to find housing stock in this area dating back to the Victorian era. The Victorian tiles at this property appear to have been neglected by the previous owner and were now looking very dull and marked by paint from decorating; all the colours looked washed out and the floor was now looking very unappealing. The good news however is that this problem is not uncommon and with a deep clean and a fresh sealer applied it can be transformed. I gave the owner a quote which was accepted a date agreed for my return to do the work. On the first day the floor was sprayed with a neat solution of Tile Doctor Remove and Go which is a powerful alkaline cleaning and stripping agent used to remove old seals and paint. The solution was left to dwell for about twenty minutes so it could soak in and get to work. It was then scrubbed into the tiles using a coarse 200-grit pad fitted to a heavy buffing machine. Water was then added to the floor for lubrication and the soils released from the pores of the tile during scrubbing was removed by with a wet vacuum. To treat the stubborn paint stains and remains of what I suspect was carpet adhesive a hand scraper and wire brush was used, this was made easier by the Remove and Go which had softened the paint etc. The next stage was to give the Victorian tiles a mild acid wash using Acid Gel which is applied to the floor, scrubbed in, and rinsed off with a little water then extracted using the wet vacuum. We always recommend an acid wash for old floors like these as it will counter any efflorescent salts resident in the tiles and helps to remove other mineral contaminates and old grout that can mask the true beauty of the tiles. I left the tiles to dry out for two days before returning to apply the sealer, first checking it was dry by testing for moisture in various places with an electronic damp tester. It’s not a good idea to apply a sealer to a damp floor so we always check first. Satisfied the floor was dry, I started applying a coat of Tile Doctor Colour Grow which is a colour enhancing impregnating sealer that helps to bring out the true colours in the tile. This was allowed to dry for thirty minutes and then followed up five coats of Tile Doctor Seal and Go Extra which is a breathable sealer that leaves a lovely satin finish and builds on the protection. Once done the Victorian hallway tiles looked so much cleaner and healthier. It was quite a transformation and the new sealer had given the floor a nice low sheen shine which the customer was very happy with. For aftercare cleaning I left them with a bottle of Tile Doctor Neutral Cleaner which is specially formulated for cleaning sealed tiles. We don’t recommend tile cleaning products you find on supermarket shelves as the are usually too strong and can strip a sealer off the floor prematurely. If your choosing another product to clean your floor always read the label to make sure its compatible. Andrew Robb Merseyside Tile Doctor

Pepper plants are a delightful addition to any garden, offering a vibrant burst of color and spice to your culinary creations. However, even experienced gardeners can encounter challenges when growing pepper plants. In this blog, we'll explore some common issues you might face and provide practical solutions to help your pepper plants thrive. 1. Slow or Stunted Growth Issue: Slow or stunted growth in pepper plants can be discouraging, but there are specific steps you can take to address this issue effectively. Solution: a. Soil Health: - Well-Draining Soil: Ensure your pepper plants are in well-draining soil to prevent waterlogged roots, which can inhibit growth. - Organic Matter: Incorporate plenty of organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the soil to improve its texture and nutrient content. - pH Level: Test the soil pH and adjust it to the ideal range between 6.0 and 6.8 using lime or sulfur as needed. b. Fertilization: - Balanced Fertilizer: Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer designed for vegetables to provide essential nutrients steadily throughout the growing season. - Compost: Amend the soil with compost to enhance nutrient availability and soil structure. This can promote healthier growth. c. Watering: - Consistent Moisture: Maintain consistent soil moisture levels by watering your pepper plants regularly but avoid waterlogging. Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week, adjusting based on your local climate and weather conditions. - Mulching: Apply mulch around the base of the plants to retain soil moisture and regulate temperature. 2. Yellowing Leaves Issue: Yellowing leaves can be a sign of various underlying problems, but addressing them promptly can restore the vibrancy of your pepper plants. Solution: a. Nutrient Deficiencies: - Balanced Fertilization: Use a well-balanced fertilizer that includes micronutrients to address nutrient deficiencies. - Specific Nutrients: If you suspect a particular deficiency, such as magnesium, iron, or nitrogen, apply the appropriate nutrient supplement following package instructions. b. Pest and Disease Control: - Pest Inspection: Regularly inspect the leaves and stems for common pests like aphids and mites. Remove affected leaves and treat with organic pesticides if necessary. - Disease Management: Look out for signs of diseases like bacterial leaf spot or fungal issues. Apply organic fungicides or bactericides as recommended. 3. Blossom Drop Issue: When pepper plants drop their blossoms prematurely, it can hinder fruit development and lead to disappointment. Solution: a. Temperature Control: - Stable Temperatures: Ensure your pepper plants are exposed to consistent temperatures between 70°F and 80°F (21°C to 27°C) during flowering. Avoid sudden temperature fluctuations by providing shelter or using row covers. b. Pollination: - Assist with Pollination: If growing peppers indoors or in a greenhouse, help with pollination by gently shaking the plants or using a small brush to transfer pollen between flowers. Outdoor pepper plants are usually pollinated by insects. 4. Wilting Plants Issue: Wilting or drooping pepper plants can be a sign of various problems, but proper care can revive them. Solution: a. Watering: - Consistent Moisture: Adjust your watering routine to keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Water early in the day to prevent fungal issues. - Drainage: Ensure proper soil drainage by amending the soil or using raised beds to prevent waterlogged roots. b. Pest Control: - Pest Inspection: Examine the undersides of leaves for signs of pests like aphids, spider mites, or whiteflies. Treat infestations promptly with biological insecticides. 5. Curling Leaves Issue: Curling or misshapen leaves indicate stress in pepper plants, which can be caused by various factors. Solution: a. Environmental Stress: - Stable Conditions: Ensure your pepper plants are in an environment with stable humidity, temperature, and adequate air circulation. Avoid sudden changes in conditions. - Proper Ventilation: Adequate air circulation can reduce humidity and prevent fungal issues. b. Pest and Disease Management: - Pest Inspection: Regularly inspect your plants for pests and diseases, addressing them promptly with organic remedies as needed. 6. Sunscald Issue: Sunscald can lead to discolored, leathery patches on pepper fruits when exposed to intense sunlight. Solution: a. Shade Cloth: - Sun Protection: Shield your pepper plants from harsh sunlight during the hottest part of the day using shade cloth or by planting them where they receive some filtered sunlight. b. Pruning: - Fruit Shading: Prune excess foliage to allow better fruit shading, reducing the risk of sunscald. Ensure that there's a balance between foliage and fruit. 7. Pepper Plant Pests and Diseases Issue: Aphids, mites, whiteflies, and various diseases can affect pepper plants, but you can manage them effectively. Solution: a. Regular Inspection: - Vigilant Monitoring: Regularly inspect your pepper plants for signs of pests or diseases, paying close attention to the undersides of leaves and stems. b. Organic Remedies: - Pest Control: Use organic remedies like neem oil, insecticidal soap, or diatomaceous earth for pest control. - Disease Management: Apply organic fungicides or bactericides as recommended to manage diseases like powdery mildew or bacterial spot. While growing pepper plants can present various challenges, these common issues are manageable with the right knowledge and care. Regular monitoring, proper soil preparation, and timely intervention can help you enjoy a bountiful harvest of vibrant, spicy peppers. Remember that gardening is a learning experience, and each challenge you face is an opportunity to improve your skills and enjoy the rewards of homegrown peppers in your favorite dishes.

Our client in the villager of Pembury was feeling really deflated after having a Slate Patio laid adjacent to the full length of her house, however the builder had not applied the sealer correctly creating a mess which ruined the appearance of the stone. Unfortunately, it is not that unusual to be contacted about this sort of situation, applying a sealer is not as easy as manufactures make out. There are lots of factors to consider, choosing the right sealer, is the stone damp, how do you know if you have applied too much, and it often catches tradesmen out. I was able to reassure them that with the right combination of products and equipment the problem could be rectified. The first job was to strip off the old sealer which was done using a product called Tile Doctor Remove and Go. The name of this product pretty much says it all and once applied to the stone it is left to soak in for ten to twenty minutes before being scrubbed in with a rotary machine fitted with an abrasive burnishing pad. Tile Doctor Remove and Go is a multi-purpose stripper which will remove most coatings and sealers, including epoxy grout haze which is another common problem we encounter when tradesmen have not cleaned up properly after grouting. It is also good for removing heavy build ups of grease. I used several burnishing pads of different grits going from coarse to smooth on this patio, rinsing and extracting the soil after each pad. It was a large area, so this process took up most of the day on its own, fortunately I use a van mounted high pressure cleaning and extraction system to remove the soil which is very efficient and leaves the stone bright clean and reasonably dry afterwards. This ensures the process can be carried out with minimal mess. It was a nice warm summers day and although cloudy we didn’t get any rain overnight, so after checking the forecast I was able to return the next day and apply a fresh sealer to the Slate. My client wanted a natural look, so I used Tile Doctor Ultra Seal. This product is a no-sheen, natural-look, impregnating sealer which is formulated to provide maximum stain protection. These impregnating sealers work by penetrating the stone, occupying its pores, and thus preventing dirt from residing there. The client was so happy and relieved to see the results on what a very expensive patio and commented she was eager to get the first barbecue of the season underway. We recommended that a regular with the jet wash should keep the patio in good condition and in a few years time we could return to reapply the sealer for them. Michael Conlon South Kent Tile Doctor

Although there was room for equipment to pass beside the house, the owners paid the extra cost for Betz’s limited access conveyor system to remove soil from the excavation. In addition, they paid to have the construction materials carried in by hand just to minimize disruption to their neighbours. Thoughtfulness is still alive.

Oak trees have been a symbol of strength for a long time. They are also known to live for a very long time, given the right conditions. The reason they became a symbol of strength is because they themselves are very strong and are able to survive some of the harshest storms, when healthy. The wood it produces is undoubtedly very strong as well and is commonly used in the making of furniture, homes, and boats. Oak trees are not only used for their strong wood, but also for their beauty. There are even certain species that produce distinctive lobed leaves, allowing them to stand out. Then, when fall comes around, they become even more majestic when their leaves turn bright and brilliant colours that add texture and a unique spectacle to the changing environment. The beauty is so amazing that you might even want one for your own yard. Our team here at Five Star Tree Services is going to go over a few different types of oak trees that might be perfect for your landscape! These are guaranteed to have spectacular fall colours, great shade, and amazing texture. Different Types of Oaks You might be interested to know that oaks are one of the oldest trees in the world. Archeologists have been able to date them back to around 65 million years ago. A healthy oak can even live to about 200-300 years old. But do you know where these big trees come from? Little tiny acorns. A single oak tree is able to produce roughly 10 million acorns over the course of its lifetime. Not only are oak trees beneficial to people but they are also great for animals. They are able to support more than 500 moth and butterfly species, which is more than other native trees can do. Insects also like to find homes in oak trees, which helps to feed the birds. Not to mention that small animals like squirrels also can utilize them for things like food, shade, and shelter. They also help larger animals, such as the white-tailed deer, who eats the acorns during the fall and winter season, which is about 75% of their diets. Around the world, you can find more than 600 species of oak trees. Let’s go over a small handful of our favourites that are great for providing dazzling colourful displays during the fall months, when the leaves change colours. These are going to range from bronzes, to golds, to reds, and everything in between. Black Oak It might be apparent that the name comes from the outward appearance from the almost black bark that you see, along with the deep orange or yellow inner bark of the tree. Being quite a statement tree, you can enjoy the green glossy leaves in the summer and then enjoy them again then they turn orange and red in the fall. This tree has a tendency to look very similar to a red oak, but one of the major differences is that black oaks are a little smaller and are able to tolerate drier soil conditions. Specifications: -Growing Zones: 3-9 -Sun Tolerance: Full sun, which can equate to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day -Soil: Needs slightly acidic, well-drained, and rich soil -Growing height: 50-60 feet White Oak This oak tree is great for shade and can easily be spotted by the light colour of its bark. During the spring, it comes out with pinkish leaves that later on turn to dark green. The leaves of this tree are 4-9 inches long, have 7-9 lobes, and turn reddish-brown in the fall. Specifications: -Growing Zone: 3-9 -Sun Tolerance: Full sun, which can equate to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day -Soil: Needs to be planted in well drained and slightly acidic soil -Growing Height: 80 feet Red Oak This oak doesn’t have its name for nothing. It offers the brightest red leaves out of all the oak trees. In the fall, the leaves turn a beautiful deep red. During the summer, it has glossy green leaves and an open canopy. This is a widely adaptable tree and it also grows much faster than other oaks. Specifications: -Growing Zone: 3-9 -Sun Tolerance: Full sun, which can equate to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day -Soil: Needs to be plated in slightly acidic, moist, but well-drained soil -Growing Height: 50-75 feet Bur Oak One of the defining features of this tree is that it has unique acorns. They are larger than other trees and are fringed. It grows in a round shape that is dense with leaves, offering lovely shade and is able to tolerate heat stress and pollution. In the fall the leaves of this oak tree can turn either yellow/green, muted yellow, or yellow/brown. Specifications: -Growing Zones: 3-8 -Sun Tolerance: Full sun, which can equate to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day -Soil: Needs neutral to alkaline soil -Growing Height: 60-80 feet Pin Oak Typically found along rivers in eastern and central US, this oak tree’s unique feature is its distinctive branching pattern. It has large leaves that are pointed with sweeping U-shaped spaces between lobes. The leaves in the fall turn a scarlet red and eventually become bronze later in the fall. Specifications: -Growing Zone: 4-8 -Sun Tolerance: Full sun, which can equate to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day -Soil: Needs slightly acidic soil. Can tolerate wet and heavy clay soils -Growing Height: 60-70 feet Live Oak These are not usually super tall but they do have winding and spiraling branches which have the ability to grow into a massive diameter, larger than other oak trees, and this helps to provide a large area of shade. Another special thing about this particular type of tree is that it is the only evergreen, not a deciduous tree like the rest. This specific oak tree is one of the strongest and was used in colonial times for making ships in the US Navy. The glossy leathery leaves on this tree are 1-3 inches long and are dark green with lighter green underneath, which lasts during the entire winter. Specifications: -Growing Zone: 8-11 -Sun Tolerance: Full sun, which can equate to 6 hours of uninterrupted sunlight each day -Soil: Needs to be planted in slightly acidic soil -Growing Height: 40-80 feet How Five Star Tree Services Can Help Whether you are looking for the best oak tree for your yard or any other tree, our professionals here at Five Star Tree Services can help! With our wide variety of services, we can help you with all your tree care services in Richmond Hill! Give us a call today at (416) 990-3355!

Overgrown shrubbery before we removed and disposed of it.

I was called to this property in Bow East London, because the grout around the shower had become dirty and had gone a yellowy/orange colour over time. This is quite a common problem with shower tiles due to the dyes you find in most shampoo and shower gel products. There was also some mould that needed removing. The ceramic tiles themselves were glazed ceramic which are very easy to clean but as usual the grout was bringing the appearance of the bathroom down. The client was keen to see if the grout could be restored and had considered removing the grout and replacing it, but this takes time and I felt it would not be necessary. There are a number of Tile Doctor grout cleaning products I could have used to remedy these issues. I discussed the options with the client, and we agreed a price to complete the work. Given the appearance of mould I decided to go with Tile Doctor Duo Clean which is designed for cleaning bathroom tiles and grout. Bow is an area in the London Borough of Tower Hamlets in East End of London. It is mostly a residential area which is around 5 miles east of Charing Cross. It became part of the County of London following the passing of the Local Government Act 1888. “Bow” is an abbreviation of the medieval name Stratford-at-Bow, in which “Bow” refers to the bowed bridge built here in the early 12th century. Working in small sections from top to bottom the method I used to renovate the tile and grout was to spray the tiles and especially the grout with Tile Doctor Duo Clean. This product is designed for bathroom tile cleaning and comes with a spray head attachment, so it is ready to use. I then left the product to soak in for about ten minutes before scrubbing it in with a brush and then rinsed it off with water. It is always easier to clean tiles in this situation as the water can just drain away. In other areas we would need to use the wet vacuum to remove the soiled waste. After repeating this process for the whole of the shower wall I then retreated any areas which needed more work until I was happy all the staining and mould was gone. The area was then dried and the only job remaining was the seal the grout which will prevent the grout staining going forward. To do this I spayed on Tile Doctor Wall Grout Sealer which comes in an aerosol and is very easy to apply. The client was very happy with the work, the bathroom was restored and looked much more appealing. Jackson Davis East London Tile Doctor