Get a dimmer on the wall switch this is something you can do yourself if no one steps up to the plate I am not sure why each one would need its own dimmer, are these LEDs or what .

They are LEDs. What I'm told is that because each has its own dimmer they cannot be connected to a dimmer switch. The electrician, in any event, said (after installation) they couldn't be dimmed on a switch. I don't know either why each would need its own dimmer (I suppose it's good if you only have one or two and no wall switch), but this is what the electrician provided.

I am having a similar dilemma, except in my situation, they installed a wall dimmer that is not compatible with the rest of the LED installation. I am noting this just to point out that there seems to be more involved with transformers and compatible dimmer switches such that I am still trying to untangle on my own as my electrician is no longer responsive. Good luck!

Thank you! Good to know I'm not alone... we are still finishing up our project and so have some sway in getting things corrected, so I'm trying to gauge how big of a deal to make about this, how egregious a choice was the choice of these lights versus ones (later specified by the architect in response ) that do dim on a switch. I was going to offer to buy the lights if the electrician would swap them out, but turns out they're $70 each, and we've got 7 of them installed...

Clear lighting you are totally right, don't pay until you are happy.

My husband put the dimmer on the LEDs in my sewing room after the electrician said he would but didn't. He got the switch at HD. I have the east bank of lights on one switch and the west bank of lights on another switch so I have two dimmers. If all your lights are on one switch I would experiment by getting a dimmer for that switch and see if it works. However, don't try to install it yourself unless you had an electrician for a father and he taught you all he knew. LOL My husband just said you can look at youtube videos of how to install dimmer switches.

Lucindanyc: It is possible that it is your bulbs that are not compatible. Some LED bulbs cannot be dimmed. It will say on the bulb if it can be dimmed.

The electrician can only be held accountable for doing what was in the specs used to quote the job so the architect fell down on his/her part in not providing correct specs. The architect should pick up the bill on this one - LED dimming is not always done and is not considered 'the standard'. We just completed our first project where we installed the dimmer for under cabinet LEDs at the switch and not at each unit - and we are having problems with it even though the electrical supplier and manufacturer all said it would work and that is what these lights were designed for. We are not happy with it at all.

LED lights and dimming are not always easy and some things are just not compatible. The correct fixtures have to be specified and the correct dimmer. Also the transformer has to be able to support the number of fixtures and the length of the wire runs. It takes us hours of planning in advance with our lighting supplier to get the right products - and sometimes then they don't work as we would like.

I know that my LEDs are dimmable, but they were installed with an incompatible power supply that does not allow dimming from a wall switch. At least, that is what I understand to be the issue. I don't want to take over this thread, but my LEDs take a full 5 seconds to light up once I flip the wall switch. Does anyone else have this experience?

LED light sources, transformers (drivers or ballasts) and the dimmer must be compatible to operate properly.

@Brickwood > That's why we provide drawings and specifications for architects and builders to insure that products work correctly when supplied and installed by the contractors.

@lucindanyc > That's a new one! Let me know the manufactures and part numbers of the three components and I will give you some assistance by email.

What we are experiencing was with a remodel. There were no additional circuits pulled for the kitchen (except what was required for new appliances) and every time the client cuts on the garbage disposal the LED lights blink - more so if they are dimmed rather than at full power. We can't fix it unless we pull a new circuit and that of course costs extra. No one warned us in advance on this - with LED dimming it seems to be by the seat of your pants right now.

I know that we have had problems on dimming some standard LED sconce lights and we ended up changing the dimmer out 3 times. We finally insisted that the electrical supply house call the manufacturer and get the dimmer they recommended (rather than them keep picking a dimmer and sending it to us) and it finally worked.

I would think that there would be a way to change out the transformer pretty easily. It would cost something, but the transformers are usually about $50 - $75. Can someone look at it for you?

@Clear Lighting and Electrical Design >

These are the LEDs that I have: http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/page/648/catalog/Master_Catalog_Vol_42

Here is the ordering detail:
LED-RIB-CON36-WH WHT 36" RIBBON-FLEX CONN CABLE
LED-RIBBON-24V-WW6 24V LED RIBBON-FLEX 6' LENGTHS WITH CONNECTORS WARM WHITE
LED-RIBBON-TR-W 24V UL LISTED RIBBON-FLEX TRANSFORMER

I have this magnetic dimmer as a wall switch:
Lutron DVLV-600P-WH - it's 600 VA Single-Pole Preset Dimmer - Magnetic Low Voltage (Note: I have tried a non-magnetic dimmer also and neither work)

I am told that I might need Magnitude’s M60L24DC-AR

My questions:
Is that the right product to get this to dim using a wall switch?
Will this make the LEDs turn on immediately?
Do I need to hire an electrician or could I install this easily myself (I do not have any experience.)

THANK YOU so much for your help!

Thanks for the list of products. The LED-RIBBON-TR-W 24V transformer that you have is not listed as an electronic or magnetic type. So trying both types of dimmers was a good starting place.

So I assume, that your dimmer switch controls an outlet that the transformer is plugged into, correct? If so, then un-plug the transformer and plug-in a regular table lamp with an incandescent bulb and test the dimmer for proper operation. If the lamp operates properly then plug in the transformer and see if the LED strip dims properly. Set the dimmer slide to maximum and observe if the LEDs start instantly.

If the LEDs do not start instantly then plug the transformer directly to a standard non-dimmed outlet. Observe the starting speed.

Please rely back the results of your test for additional thoughts. So far, it is my opinion that the transformer is defective. Have Outwater replace it. If you use another transformer manufacture you will need to modify the 24 volt wiring that may void the UL listing.

I plugged a lamp into the outlet and it comes on right away and dims properly. The LEDs still operate on a delay and do not dim.

The wiring from the transformer is running behind a metal track all the way down the inside of my cabinet to the LED strip. Therefore, I'm not sure how I would remove it to test the transformer in another outlet. I do have another regular outlet in the same cabinet that my microwave plugs into, but I believe I have a second (different type?) outlet there since the LEDs wouldn't work in that one.

Use an extension cord to plug in the transformer to see if the LED's come on quickly. Plug the extension cord into any outlet in the Kitchen for this test.

They still have a delay.

First, is there any way that the cable/wire from the LED's to the transformer could have been damaged? There are tests that could be performed with a test meter. Do you have one or the desire to use one?

If you feel that the wire is not damaged, then call Outwater and tell them you have a defective transformer. Tell them how you tested it if they ask so they understand that it is not a dimmer switch issue.

To confirm, you are confident that I have compatible pieces, but that the transformer is not functioning properly.

It is possible that the wire could have been damaged during the install; I have no way of knowing. I do not have a test meter, but the handyman in my building might. I can check with him.

Yes, the products you have are compatible as they are on the same page. You have tried a magnatin and low voltage dimmer and that change did not make any differance.

Another method is to purchase a new wire and connect it from the transformer to the LED lights to see IF that chances the start time. OR - Have the person with the meeter check the continuity of the wire if possible.

My first guess at the top of the page would have been that the dimmer was set too low and causing a bit of delay, but Clear Lighting already walked you through that. Transformers do come out of the box bad often enough to be the problem. They also need a load on them to work properly. There is a small chance that the amount of lights you have on the transformer is on the low end of what the transformer is rated for. I havent got to look at the specs yet and I don't know how many feet of ribbon you actually used.

@Fred > Good thought on the transformer minimum number of feet of LED strip to "start" the transformer. Where have you been all day... been doing this all day without you!

@lucindanyc >> How many feet of the LED strip do you have installed?

LOL l have problems of my own today. Rim of flat tire on riding lawn mower rusted to drive axel.
I am assuming this is a tiny apartment kitchen?

Hi. Thanks for the additional ideas, Fred!
@Clear >> My kitchen is small! I have 57" of LED strip installed. In case it matters, it is split into 2 sections, all connecting up though.
@seevolt>> Thanks for letting me take over your thread! :) I have been frustrated with this for too long. I trust that you're also getting the help that you need.

I have to go find a big hammer ;) didn't see where the specs were right away so will look again later. Hopefully, Clear Lighting beats me to it :D

That length of LED strip should be long enough depending on each diodes' wattage. So the options are test the wire and order a new transformer. Have you called Outwater yet?

Hopefully someone will have some additional ideas :)

No, I haven't called them yet, but I will do so now that you have been so helpful in confirming how to proceed! Thank you!

This is what I know; can't find specs on that transformer.
You have about 14.5 watts of led
The transformer you have is listed as 84 watts max.
I looked up a couple other transformers in that range and they showed a max/min of 80/20

My LED light bars, from Environmental lights. com, have 1 large transformer in the basement which is connected to a special led dimmer wall light switch. The dimmer controls the transformer which evenly dims all the light bars. I don't think you can just put a dimmer in your system as it all has to be compatible. This LED technology is still very confusing.

@Fred > When I call the company who supplied the transformer, I will inquire about minimum watts. Is there anything else I should ask before requesting that they replace the transformer?

I suppose you could see if there is any information written on the transformer.

To provide an update, I called Outwater and they said that my existing set up will not work with any wall dimmer. He said that I need Magnitude’s M60L24DC-AR which is hard wired instead of the transformer. Given that the transformer is in a cabinet and plugged into an outlet that is controlled by the wall dimmer, I want to know if this is an easy fix for an electrician or if I will pay to have someone come out who still cannot fix it. Please advise. :)

Sounds like the 'official' line to me. I thought they dimmed fine and just took a while to turn on even when by passing the dimmer?

They take awhile to turn on but they never dim.

I didn't read all the posts. I have LED under cabinet strip lights on both sides of my kitchen and they are on one dimmer switch. The transformer is at the top of a cabinet. It was installed by an electrician who does many of these. No problems at all. Good luck.

The joys of LED lights and dimming. Not as easy as anyone thinks! It probably would be worth your time to take the information on what you have (product numbers) and the information from Outwater and go to a local lighting/electrical supply house and talk with them about what needs to be done and why. Then you can speak with an electrician about what you want and they can assist in coming up with a fix.

OK. Missed that (no dimmig) part somehow. Can I blame that on Clear? ;D The dimmer you have is probably an electronic dimmer with a "designed" minimum wattage. The new one is a magnetic dimmer with no minimum so it should dim with the proper dimmer.


http://www.magnitudeinc.com/products/m60l24dc-ar/

Deborah, electrician IS one of my licenses :) The engineers don't even have this figured out all that well according to govt. testing and reports :-/ Sometimes it is still just hit or miss and a little experimenting. In this case, I would believe Outwater's experience because all LEDs are not the same and they have a better idea of what works with their products.

Do you know how disruptive this type of installation might be to my current set up? I'm wondering if it's a simple swap out, or if there is an issue with the wires not being accessible. By chance, are you in the NYC metro area?

Post a photo of the transformer currently installed showing the wiring to the LED strip and cord plugged into the outlet for additional solutions.

Another option would be to add LEDs to increase the transformer load. How about a strip installed in the toe kick space? That would be a simple installation with parts from Outwater. Hope this helps! (O.M.G. Hope Fred likes this idea)

Sorry, not in that area. It sounds like the worst case would be that you replace the receptacle in the cabinet with one of these and mount the transformer right next to it.

http://m.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Handy-Boxes-Accessories-Box-Covers/Hubbell-Raco/861/Products.aspx?pid=52431

Kind of hard to tell without being able to examine it up close. You may be able to cut the output wires off the other transformer and use them as they are.

Here's the situation:

Picture 1: shows the connection into the LEDs from the transformer
Picture 2: shows the transformer plugged into the outlet; you can see another black wire going in behind the outlet.
Picture 3: shows the connection into the 2nd strip of LEDs. I cannot trace this back to the source, but it's supposed to be the connector.
Picture 4: shows the wall dimmer

Outwater insists that the only way to make this work with the wall dimmer is to switch to the Magnitude piece. If I do so, what is involved in changing the set up?

Lucindanyc > If the "transformer" you are referring to is plugged into an electrical outlet you will not be able to dim from the wall switch, you can simply remove the face of the existing outlet and hardwire the Magnitute transformer to the romex/in-wall wiring there, like Fred mentions. (Please have an electrician do this!)
I can only speak of Magnitude transformers (that is all we carry) but other transformers can have an electronic system that doesn't work with the magnetic switch or some transformers require at least 50% of the power to be used. The Lutron DVLP Dimmer you have will work great with the Magnitude transformer. Please check out our website and resources we would be more than happy to help!
www.inspiredled.com erica@inspiredled.com

Referring to picture 1 above, the inside of the cabinet has the above wiring/metal channel thing and box as shown in the new picture below. This comes from the cabinet with the transformer/outlet. Will changing to the Magnitude transformer be done only in the cabinet with the current transformer/outlet or will it effect the run down to the LEDs also?

Technically, a transformer is supposed to be mounted in a well ventilated area....that is up to interpretation. At the very least, it means to leave that area of the cabinet free of stuff. The 'other' wire going into the back of the outlet looks a little suspicious. I might call a different electrician to look at the whole installation before ordering the transformer to see if there is a better arrangement possible.... but, I'm sure the new transformer will work. You will mostly just get rid of the outlet and direct wire the transformer.....hopefully someplace it won't get burried in stuff.

It sounds like that black wire goes from the box in the last picture (last post) to the outlet in the second picture (post before last)?

Agree with Fred! Check out some videos we have here: http://inspiredled.com/video. There is one about the dimmable transformer that might help you visualize how it needs to be installed. My concern would be more of the output of the transformer as it looks like you are working with a 4-pin - 5050 flex, wire nutting maybe a little more difficult. Also looks like your lights are 24V, unfortunately we only carry 12V transformers.

I just had undercounter LED lights installed by an EC. The power wires were hidden, but the fixture connector wires fastened to the underside of the cabinet just above the backsplash. I think it looks horrible. Is this method correct? In addition I now need to add trim to cover the fixture!

Bear2958, under cabinet lighting is usually a bit of an imperfect system unless you choose a relatively expensive system and the cabinets are already pre-designed for the lights. It looks like you have frameless cabinets, which are the worse for hiding lights and wires. With standard cabinets, I would hide the wire behind the face frame, instead of at the back wall. Fixture wires are generally not allowed to be hidden INSIDE the wall, however some companies make a special grade of fixture wire that IS listed to go in walls. Your particular fixture look to have a fairly thick profile that you can see easily. Those are usually fairly acceptable under cabinets with a face frame, however ribbon lighting is less visible. It is fairly common to add a light rail to the bottom of the cabinets to hide the lights, but be careful to read the installation instructions on your range or cooktop first, because there are clearance requirements for combustible materials. Generally the light rail needs to be 18" above the countertop right next to the stove. Most of the problems you have are ones that needed to be fixed before drywall and cabinets were hung. The specific lights needed to be picked out at that time and whoever was in charge of the overall project planning needed to step up and make sure it would all work. By the time the electrician gets involved, it is too late without change orders.