There is a current discussion going on over on the Growing from Seed forum here if you haven't checked it out yet. Don't know that you'll find anything new in it though.

That long of a growing time without transplanting is going to make the netting almost impossible to remove before planting so a fair amount of root damage may happen. If you want to use them it is easy enough to strip off the netting before the roots get too entangled and plop them into a Dixie cups with hole in the bottom. Simple to plant from the cup.

Personally, I won't use them for anything but if they work for you, fine.

Dave

I just composed the following answer to someone on the annuals forum. The method is basically the same whether you're talking flowers or vegetables. I have used peat pellets and peat pots both in the past and did not like them, primarily because they dry out so fast that if you are not paying very close attention, you can lose your plants very quickly.

Just for your information, I started about 50 flats of annuals from seed this past year. I have no special equipment except a stack of rubbermaid boxes, one heat mat, and alot of cheap shop lights hunt over utility shelves. I really didn't get confident with seeds until I started growing alot of them...practice makes perfect (so to speak). :)

Maybe this info will help you regardless of what method you choose.

QUOTING:
moonwolf, here are some basics on seed starting. This isn't short, but I am trying to answer the questions that I had when I was beginning to work with seeds.
First, find out when your last frost date is. You can get this from google or by calling your local agricultural extension office. Then count back six to eight weeks and that's when you should plant your seeds. Don't be in a great hurry. Plants are much happier when they can get outside.

Don't use great big pots. If you have some leftover cell packs from buying flowers in the past, clean them up and dip them in a solution of bleach and water. Small yogurt cups make good seed starters too. Be sure to punch a hole in the bottom for drainage.

Then fill them with a good potting soil mix that does not contain moisture control (crystals, or whatever) and does not contain fertilizer. Most books will tell you to use a seed starting mix, but my experience has been that they dry out VERY fast and there's no room for error. I have excellent results with Miracle Grow potting soil that does not have moisture control or fertilizer in it.

Sow your seeds on top of the soil. I usually put two seeds per cell pack, especially if it's a new seed to me. That way you have a bit of insurance. Then press the seed and soil down into the pot. I do this by taking another six pack and using it as a "presser". You should have about a half inch of space between the soil surface and the top of the pot. This will make watering easier.

Then add a light dusting of more soil over the seed to just cover. If, by chance, the seeds are large, then push them a bit deeper into the soil and cover with a bit more soil.

Next, water them extremely well. You want the soil to be saturated. I like to use the sprayer on my sink for this purpose. I turn it to as low a setting as I can get without losing the spray. If you have to use a can, trickle the water slowly so you don't wash the seeds out of the soil.

NOW, let the pots drain. Give them plenty of time so that there is no more water seeping out the bottoms. Half an hour is usually just about right. To recap, you want the soil mix to be thoroughly moistened with no dry pockets, BUT you do not want any excess water in it.

Enclose your pots in plastic somehow. I use clear Rubbermaid storage boxes. They are the perfect size for one nursery flat. Turn the boxes upside down so that the plants are sitting in the lid and are covered by the box. You can also use Ziplock bags, Coke bottles with the bottoms cut out, milk jugs, etc. Whatever you use, leave just a bit of open space. I put a pencil between the top and bottom of the container, or you can leave the lid off the coke/milk bottles, etc. You just want a bit of air to be able to move inside.

Now put your mini greenhouses somewhere warm. I have a seed mat too, and they are great. But, if you get creative, you should be able to find a place in your house that's warm enough. Remember, heat rises. Even if the fridge doesn't warm up, it's still near the ceiling where warm air collects. Ditto for the water heater. My brother sets his seed trays on top of rope lights for warmth. (Be VERY sure they don't get wet.) Ideally, the seeds should be in light too, but if you can't swing warmth and light, go for warmth. In that case, watch them very carefully, and as soon as the seeds sprout, move them into light.

Just a note: the rubbermaid boxes can be stacked. I often put a stack in front of an eastern exposure window for germinating and they do fine there.

Most seeds germinate in a week, but some take much longer. Have faith and be patient. When they come up, they need as much light as you can give them and, as said above, somewhat cooler temperatures. I germinate my seeds upstairs in the heated part of the house (68 to 75 degrees) and then move them to my basement (55 to 70 degrees) under flourescent lights. If you have no source of light and/or you have no southern exposure windows, wait as late as possible to germinate your seeds so that they don't have to live inside for very long. I do have lights and I still wait for fast growing things like zinnias. Once they get into the sunlight, they catch up in a hurry.

Once the seeds have their first set of true leaves (the first two that sprout are not them), you can move them out of their "greenhouses" and begin to give them some fertilizer: HALF strength or even third strength. Use liquid fertilizer. A great one is Fish Emulsion IF you can stand the smell. It's fine in my basement but I sure don't want it in my house. :) I have used a soluble orchid food with good results too.

Watch your seedlings. As a rule, I only water them once a week, but if the soil dries out more quickly, obviously water more. The point is, don't water them unless the soil is nearly dry. Fertilize every other week.

Remember those two seeds? If they both come up, at some point, you may want to get rid of one to make room for the other to grow a good root system. Don't pull it out, cut the stem off at ground level. By the way, it pays to start more plants than you think you'll need. Especially when you're new at this, things happen and some plants will die. If you have extra, people are always glad for the gift.

If you do not have a good light source inside, move your seedlings outside as soon as possible. Be sure to harden them off before leaving them in the sun all day long. I try my best to watch for a few days of overcast, cloudy weather. I move the trays into the shade the first day and then into the cloudy "full sun" thereafter. In two or three days they are able to withstand whatever.

If you take them out early, there's the chance of frost, of course. Keep your "greenhouse" covers handy and cover your seedlings on any night that seems threatening. If a freeze is predicted, take them inside. But, put them back outside as soon as the temperature goes back up, so you don't have to harden them off again.

I also uae them and they work great. I know people like to use a different medium and im sure other recommend it but if it works for you then stick with it. They should be ok till you move them outside.

Here is a link that might be useful: Home Gardening

Thanks. I don't have room anywhere in my house to set up anything since i have 4 kids and 1 playful cat. So I keep my bedroom door closed and only have room for one flat on a table in front of my south facing sliding glass door. It worked great for marigolds last year that were also started in the peat pellets. I never removed the netting when I planted them and they flourished all summer long.

A helpful hint, if you can set the flats in a container that would hold about 1/4" to a 1/2" of water, the individual seed cell packs will absorb the water through the bottom, eliminating over head watering and providing constant moisture. When the water is not visible anymore, refill. With a hectic schedule, it buys you a little time, cuts down the everyday watering.