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deebo82

effects of being 'rootbound'

16 years ago

Hi everyone!

I'm a newbie gardener who's been lurking on these forums for a little while now, trying to find out as much as I can about my new plants before I kill them accidentally. This forum's been a great resource, so thanks in advance everyone!

So here's the big question... What are the effects of a plant's being rootbound? Most of my plants are doing fine (with the exception of an aphid problem I've been battling), except an indeterminate Mortgage Lifter tomato, who is showing some serious (downward) leaf curl and is generally sad-looking, but remains dark green and has set some fruit that are about racketball size. I had been watering it about every other day, but the water begins to run out the bottom almost as soon as I put it in the top, so I thought it was waterlogged, and tried not watering for 5 days (while on vacation), but still no improvement. Now, it occurs to me that the potting soil (free soil from a friend, not sure what in it besides some vermiculite and compost) might just be really dry and shrinking enough to let water flow along the side of the pot.

Anyways, I realize now that for such a large-fruited, indeterminate tomato plant, the pot is really small (probably only 2-3 gallons, maybe 8-10" diameter tallish clay pot). It seems that normally, the solution would be to repot into a much larger container, make sure to use a nice gritty soil mix, and go on my merry way. However, as a destitute student with a small apartment, I don't really have either money or space to upgrade, so was wondering what I can do to live with the situation (and of course help the plant out). Does anyone have any suggestions for living with a rootbound plant? Would really frequent and careful watering (and fertilizing) help us out here, or should I harvest some really small, hard, green tomatoes and repot something else in there? Am I possibly way off on my diagnosis?

Comments (7)

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You could try aerating the soil by punching it with chopsticks here and there, and then watering after that. I understand the lack of funds that a student has. Try aerating. And then repot if you can. There is a neat little tool called a Soil Sleuth. Google that. It's really cheap, but since you are a student, you could probably figure out how to make something like it.

    It is basically a notched plastic stick with a hook type handle on the end. You stick it in the container, do a 1/4 turn, pull it out, and the notches hold the soil, so you can feel if it's wet or dry. By doing this here and there, you are also aerating the soil, and roots really like that!

    Good luck!
    Suzi

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Another thing. You don't mention if you're feeding this plant. All that watering is certainly leaching out any nutrients. If you're not adding them back in some form, it's not surprising that your plant isn't too happy. So, yes, fertizing would probably help.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Al: Good to know, the soil mix seems to be more water-retentive than any of your mixes, which seems to be of concern, but are there any particular techniques you can think of to help introduce air to the roots? I have read in some of your previous posts about the use of a wick, but I was a little bit unclear on how well it would work if I just inserted it into the soil from the drainage hole and let it hang out in the drip tray. Would making it longer and letting it hang over the edge of the tray help? (I'm sort of envisioning it working a bit like a siphon, but I don't know about that bit...) I get the feeling that the water retention time is the focus here; I realize its a bit late to further amend the soil much, but can you think of some possible strategies I can use to optimize the situation I have? A box fan trained on the plant to increase transpiration and evaporation from the pot surface perhaps?

    Suzi: Hmm, I think I will try the chopstick thing. I am a little bit worried about damaging the roots though.. Wouldn't the soil kinda fill the hole back in after watering though? Would it be better to water, punch in the holes, and let them dry out that way?

    susan2010: I've been feeding it about every other week with a mix of half-strength fish emulsion (5-1-1) and quarter-strength 0-10-10 (Alaska brand "MorBloom"), with a bit of worm tea concentrate mixed in (maybe less than 1/10th strength).

    Thanks for your help and comments!

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You can (re)introduce air to the roots by removing excess water, and you can do that by tilting the container after you water and using a wick that dangles below the container (after watering). The wick 'fools' excess water into 'thinking' the container is deeper than it actually is, so water moves down the wick in 'search' of the container bottom. When it gets to the end of the wick, it gets pushed off by the following water until there no longer IS following water.

    You're right about water retention time. Whenever a portion of the soil remains saturated for more than a few hours, roots begin to die. You want air to return to the larger soil pores asap to prevent this cyclic death & regeneration of roots, which is very expensive for the plant in terms of energy outlay - even if WE can't see direct evidence because its lost potential.

    Unless you're married to the fish emulsion, you might consider trying a 3:1:2 ratio soluble fertilizer. I'm pretty sure you'll like the results if you don't have an aversion to things that don't make the 'organic' cut.

    Good luck!

    Al

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    This is my first season out of many, that I am trying the MG (3:1:2) instead of the fish emulsion for my containers, and I love how things have been going. I see a big difference.

    I still us the stinky fish stuff in the yard for my inground and like it for that. ;)

    JoJo

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    In an effort to answer the OP's immediate problem which I see as a pot full of roots, with little if any usable soil left, and a desire to salvage his growing crop. I would immerse the pot of roots in water for about 30 minutes to thoroughly saturate the roots, then let it drain. Daily water the pot with a weak soluble fertilizer about 3-1-2 NPK. Once a week or 10 days repeat the pot immersion routine. You should be able to harvest ripe tomatoes doing this. It is like a modified hydroponic growing. Al

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