Any particular reason for your twenty foot height limit? For cooling the house, more height is better. In other words, a "shade tree". Thirty by thirty is for two dimensions only. What about vertical space? Any wires? If not, I'd again ask, why not plant a taller-growing tree?

+oM

Jeremy didn't mention a height limit that I see. He said, "...20 or so feet wide..."

Jeremy, keep in mind that most fast growing trees (not all) die at an early age and are often weak wooded (drop limbs frequently and fall apart easily). 'Bradford' and 'Cleveland Select' pears are perfect examples of this.

Yup, my bad. So anyway.......

+oM

Thanks for the follow up. If I need to back off the idea of a fast growing tree that's fine, I'd rather just make a good decision on the type of tree to plant. I live in Oklahoma where it gets extremely hot during the summer so the shade would be really important for blocking the front of the house. But I don't just want to throw a tree in for the sake of getting something there.

And I guess it doesn't HAVE to be just twenty feet wide, I'm just worried about it running into my neighbors area at some point or being overwhelming. Anyway I'm completely open to suggestions, I appreciate your help. Any ideas for trees to look into that might be a good fit? I can't imagine I'm the only one out there with this dilemma wanting a good tree but having a small front yard.

I did check and there are no wire issues above or around my yard.

Thanks, Jeremy

Well, there are columnar and also the fastigiate trees, that are unusually narrow looking for their height. I'm not keen on their look, but you may be.

I'm linking you a web page that lists some. I'm not specifically recommending these; just found the page & thought it might help.

For other medium trees, take a quick look online at Shantung Maple and Japanese Maple 'Bloodgood.'

What else will be in the yard. Some maples have an aggressive fibrous root system that largely precludes planting anything else under them. If you're bent on planting something (e.g.: hostas) underneath a tree, it's going to have a big impact on your choices.

Also, if a tree got 40' tall & 30' wide, essentially shading nearly the whole yard, would that be okay, or is there a reason you're trying for a 20' (or less) diameter crown/canopy?

Is there a septic tank or leach field for one in or near this yard?

Richard.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Morton Arboretum page on columnar & fastigiate trees

the front yard is bare other than the spot where the tree used to be. Here's a link to the yard I think it'd be easier than explaining it:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/76761010@N03/7037478205/in/photostream

I don't plan on adding anything else.

I really don't think I'd like having something that essentially took the entire front yard up, just something to help with the sun hitting the front windows and door if possible.

There's no septic tank or other complication in yard as far as I know, but I'm not sure if there are pipes underneath it.

Thanks again, let me know what you think.

Checked out the Shantung maple and I really like that. Somehow ended up finding a fire dragon shantung that is really interesting. Maybe I'll go that way with it.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated though thanks.

Jeremy,
What part of Oklahoma are you? Climate varies ALLOT from east to west. With that said, we have a Fire Dragon Shantung Maple. tough tree. It has been somewhat slow growing for us, but I think that is because we are in a bit colder climate. It is also one of the earliest leafing trees around, but still freeze tolerant. Also be aware that this is a pretty new selection, and so you might have to search a while to find it.

Another possible fit for your yard would be "Caddo" Sugar Maple. These originate from Red Rock Canyon in Caddo county, They are a relic population of Sugar Maple that is smaller and much more heat drought adapted. There are several growers in Oklahoma, so you should be able to find these.

There are other possibilities, but more information on climate and soil is needed first.

Arktrees

thanks for the follow up. I'm in central Oklahoma about 20 miles south of OKC. I'd really like something that grows fast enough to make a difference in the next few years but I fear getting a huge tree that will be a problem later, or getting a fast grower that dies and falls over. Maybe I'm searching for something that doesn't exist, but isn't there any tree that is hardy, provides good shade, grows fast, and doesn't get humongous?

After looking at the Caddo maple that would be great, I just would prefer to find something faster growing if possible.

Any thoughts on the Autumn Blaze Maple?

The Autumn Blaze looks great, about the right size, fast grower, good foliage from what I see. Any gotchas?

Thanks, Jeremy

"I really don't think I'd like having something that essentially took the entire front yard up, just something to help with the sun hitting the front windows and door if possible."

One other quick option, following up the mention of columnar trees earlier, and in light of what you said that I just quoted.

I suppose you could have a small row of 2 or 3 columnar deciduous trees, that would erect a 'leaf wall' without a large canopy dominating the whole yard. This should shade the front of the house part of the day, with a narrower overhead profile.

Richard.

Autumn blaze is going to get quite large. It is a good tree IMO, but hardly one that can be planted and forgotten. We prune them a lot for structure. Left to their own devices, they are very prone to narrow v-crotches and competing leaders. And at least here, they are very fast growers, maybe too fast. It's hard to keep up with them in terms of the structural work I mentioned.

I really don't have a good feel for what would be appropriate in your region.

+oM

Though I hate them, Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana that is pruned up might fit the bill. Can be fast growing, don't too tall, and very drought tolerant.

Bald Cypress Taxodium distichum could work. They do well in drier areas, and are surprisingly drought tolerant once established. They grow at a moderate rate. Many cultivars to choose from.

Perhaps one of the Lacebark Elm Ulmus parvifolia cultivars. Some of those aren't too large, and grow at a good rate.

"Frontier" Elm is a hybrid elm that doesn't get too large, and has the bonus of fall color. This should work in your area.

Whatever you choose, even under the best of circumstances, it's going to take a good 10 years to do you much real good. Pointing out the obvious, but I'm continually amazed how people can plant a tiny tree, and think in 2-3 years it will be 40 feet tall and wide. Many people seem to think they will walk out their door sometime in the next five years, and there will be a magical tree there fully mature. You see it in new subdivisions all the time. Not saying this is you, only stating what often has to be stated for people to think about it.

Arktrees

thanks for all the feedback. There evidently is no magic bullet! Yeah I was hoping for something that would give me good shade in a couple years but evidently no such luck!

I'll check out the options listed by arktrees and report back if I'm still having questions. One last question, my entire neighborhood is filled with Bradford pears that seem almost perfect in terms of size and shape. I read the Cleveland pears are a better tree for holding up under stress. I read some negative feedback on them but if anyone could give me their two cents I'd appreciate it.

Thanks again, Jeremy

Bradford Pear.......Where do you start? Structurally very weak and very short lived. They looked like squashed mushrooms after an ice storm a couple years ago. Or maybe they will split in half during a thunderstorm in 10 years. WAY WAY WAY over planted. Even the originator of this "tree" hates them now. Eventually a pathogen will come along and wipe them out due to being almost a monoculture. Cross pollinate with other asian pears and spread to wild areas where they choke out the native plants. They STINK when they are in flower. The structural problems are a bit less on the Cleveland pear, but all the rest still applies. The people on this forum will also tend to hate them simply for being so common, but in this case there are very good reasons as well. As for fastest shade, even these pears are going to take 5-10 years. There will be an establishment stage where root systems are regenerated before they begin to grow. The bigger the tree, the longer this takes.

Honestly, IMHO Ulmus 'Frontier Elm' or Ulmus parvifolia 'Dynasty Elm' are your best fits. Dynasty supposedly grows a bit faster, and you should have any problems finding it. Check the link below for some information on both.

Arktrees

Here is a link that might be useful: A few Elms

Hi Jeremy,

I know this is an old post, but it came up in a search and I was wondering which type of tree you decided to go with? I live on the north side of OKC, my yard is about the same size as yours and my house also faces south, so we have many of the same issues.

You mentioned Crape Myrtle as one of the options. 'Muskogee' grows pretty fast. It's one of the larger Crapes and makes a fine shade tree.