In general, deciduous plants are best installed while they're dormant. Aside from that, things that are fully cold hardy I would plant in autumn. If it's only marginally hardy, wait until spring.

Bare root plants really need cold weather and to be completely dormant to transplant well but container grown plants can be planted at any time. Nowadays, it is hard to find bare root anything, almost every for sale is container grown.

No, it's not too late.

I sent you an e-mail about the trees that I owe you -- did you get it?

My landscaper says this is the BEST time to plant trees and shurbs. Why is that? Just because he wants to sell me things?!?!?!

Fall is the best time to plant trees and perennials because their energy goes into developing a good root structure, whereas in the spring their energy is spent putting out leaves and flowers. Good roots, great plants and trees.

The tough part is expending all that energy yourself to plant in the fall and then waiting for months to see the payoff!

Alicia, I got your email about the trees, I am sorry I have not responded but it has been a hectic week and my computer at home has been down.

I have just received 10 bare root cedar trees. Any suggestions on how to plant them. Spacing between each tree? How deep do I dig the hole and do I need to add any amendments? I plan to plant 5 each on both sides of my driveway. I will appreciate any advice given.

Lovesdirt, there are at least 4 species of evergreens that are "called" cedar, between Cedrus, Thuja, Chaemocyparis and Juniperus. And then there are many cultivars selected within those categories, which can vary tremendously in how tall and how wide they will be at maturity. So WHAT "cedar" you have will dictate the advice on how closely to plant. Do you want a hedge, or do you want a series of "specimen" plants that may eventually touch? How long is your drive, and how much width can you allow along the sides? If you got a tag or labels with the plants, what does it say for species and cultivar?

In the mean time, since these are bare root plants, which can be tricky to deal with in the fall, KEEP THE ROOTS COVERED AND MOIST!!! Either cover them with damp mulch, sawdust, sand or even leaves, or heel them into loose dirt in the vegetable garden.

Dig the holes wide and only deep enough that the roots can be buried to the level that the root flare, where the trunk and roots separate, is at ground level. Don't add any amendments - the trees will do better in the long run with just the native soil added back into the hole. Don't add any fertilizer either. And do plan to mulch the trees, as widely as possible, no deeper than 4", and put NO mulch in the 2-4" next to the trunks.

Water well after planting, and then about every other day for the next few weeks, more if it is especially hot or windy, since the feeder roots will need to re-grow, and can't get water up into the trees easily. After that, water only when a finger stuck down into the soil is dry in the top 2-3 inches. Water so that the entire root are is soaked, not just a splash, not from a lawn sprinkler.