1/2/3 - yes, that's about it. Spritz them until growth is evident. Five days isn't enough to alter their LAP, so no worries there.

4 - see below and at Christopher's 'Fang' posting. I can't think of other posts but they're here somewhere. Basically it's the same as your #1 question - on or slightly in, warmth, sun and spritzing. Here's an example of a leaf on the soil.

{{gwi:576112}}

Here's an example of a branch on the soil - it rooted in about a month.

{{gwi:534397}}

So you don't stick the branch IN the soil you lay it on top of the soil the same as a leaf? I have 4 stem cuttings. They are Crassula Ovata variegata, Aeonium Cristata 'sunburst', Echeveria 'Fred Ives' and an Echeveria.

You can do it either way, Erin - they both should work.

Cooper,

The Jade will root whichever way you place it. Aeoniums root from the base of the stem where it was cut so don't jam it to the bottom of the pot. I think you meant Graptoveria 'Fred Ives' which will root from the nodes where leaves once were, as will the Echeveria. I recommend placing the stems of these as deep as 3". Prop up with rocks. The Echeveria may have a short stem. Remove some of the bottom leaves to expose the stem, at least 1/2". Let it callus after breaking leaves off. I find that small gravel top dressing helps in this situation to keep the leaves off the soil.

And no full sun.
Leaves/cuttings without roots will not be photosynthesizing at full capacity.

Josh

4. How exactly do you propagate from leaf cuttings? Just lay them on top of soil? In the sun or not? Should the soil be wet or dry?

{{gwi:685259}}

About a year ago this leaf had been "placed" at the same angle into the same pot you see I soaked mix with water and let it dry for an hour or two then put the leaf in the soil and let it stay inside for the harsh cold winter season known here.

Soil: 1 part red pumice (Or perlite) 1 part sifted construction sand for the smaller granite stones over 1/16th of inch up to (I aim for) anything smaller and not more than 1/2 inch....... 1 part turface or if you cant find MVP or All Sport truface then NAPA floor dry will also work as a good second choice.

In the sun or not ....Outside this season for this particular single leaf cutting Filtered direct sun and shade on warmer days as much sun on cloudy days as it could get. Is now inside until next season. Next season it will have to be have to be hardened off to stay outside in a more direct fuller sunlight and it also benefits with some shade during the course of the day.

Watering: Note the bigger leaf AKA parent leaf When it starts to look wrinkled/wrinkling then water. I let a slow trickle of water run down the leaf it's self and moved the pot around letting the water flush though for a minute to two minutes and repeated this step as often as daily if needed Suggesting watering/ flushes daily or until the parent leaf looks the way it does now then it'll be okay until next watering time.

As the unique and somewhat original GW expression goes if in doubt don't water. Well if true then no doubt this plant doesn't need watering, but if I did water it today it still wont die because the soil mix is fast/free draining enough that it's difficult to over water, also it's just as difficult to tell if the soil is dry, Also the reason why I mentioned wrinkled leaf is. It's a good time to tell this plant with out a doubt needs watering.
Ohh one last thing before you root the leaf you have, I hope you have this type of plant. If so then the cuttings would be about the same steps I mentioned.

mrlike2u, is that a jade leaf? It's hard to tell..the parent leaf looks like a jade to me, but not the baby leaves

mrlike2u, is that a jade leaf? Yes it is a Jade leaf and the smaller leaves are off sets from it's rooting

Thanks for the advice! You are all so generous with your knowledge to a newbie like myself!