Yup. I found a tall 12" flat-bottomed stainless steel pot at Wal-Mart for $34 and use a steamer rack for a caning rack. Not ideal, but I haven't had any problems so far.

Here is all you need to know about glass top stoves. I simply did a search for the words 'glass tops'. and here is all the threads

Here is a link that might be useful: GW discussions on glass top stoves

I use a large tamale pot, which has a flat bottom that is larger than the burner. I haven't had any problems using it on a glass stovetop. The only thing I don't like about the glass stovetop is the large front burner cycles on and off to maintain temperature and it takes it longer to come to a boil.

From all I have read about them the manufacturers of the stoves are opposed to using them for canning - voids warranty and all that. That, along with the temp problem dafygardennut mentioned, is why so many of us have gone to alternate sources of heat for canning - propane burners, camping stoves, BBQ grill, etc.

Alternative BWB containers are apparently available but for pressure canning - no hope with a glass top.

Dave

I first started canning with a glasstop, not knowing it wasn't recommended. Then I learned, but decided heck with it! I really wanted a new gas stove anyway, so was willing to take a chance on cracking the glasstop. However, when I bought my pressure canner, I found that it has a smooth bottom and also that it's bottom is inset a bit so that it is within the recommended size for the burner (does that make sense?) So I used the pressure canner as the pot for my BWB canning as well.

I still got my new gas stove last year.

I can on my smooth top.

Like prairie love I use my pressure canner to BWB can, as it has a smooth bottom that fits the burner, I feel it works better on the stove than my big old waterbath canner, which was not flat.

I also can on my glass top stove.

I have a 16-quart presto canner which is very light weight and has a flat bottom. Works well on the glass top so far.

I use a flat bottom stock pot for my BWB. (I was afraid using my canner as BWB may be too heavy, but it probably doesn't weigh much more than the stock pot).

I did make a mistake with glass top stove the first time I used the BWB. I used a larger stock pot that was not completely flat (it was raised in the very center). Heat becomes trapped in that little pocket of air and it burned my pot. Good thing it was a short duration of time, or it may have damaged my stove.

Other than that I've had no problems.

i use one and in the booklet it says it can be used for canning, my mom also uses her stove for BWB we have had no problems.

We shattered ours this year heating up water for the hot water bath. Fairly large stock pot (holds 9 quart jars), she was in the other room, heard the loud glass breaking, and said she thought one of the kids had fallen through a window. Fortunately, it was just the stove.

I wouldn't recommend them for real cooking. We had it less than a year.

Is there any way to stop pans from "walking" on a glass top stove? Any accessories?

I have used our smooth glasstop stove for canning and jelly. I have made hundreds, if not thousands, of jars of jellies and other canned stuff. I have never had a problem.

Jay

Smooth flat bottom pots are usually OK on glass tops. My stam canner is aluminium and is rippled on the bottom. Hardly enough flat surface for even a coil type electric stove.

I do most of my canning on a wood burning stove. Sometimes it is just to hot to use it so I used my All American PC on my glass top stove. It worked but I later read it will crack the glass. I figured I was lucky and got away with it once. I now have a old gas stove bought for $25 in an outside open shed that I use when to hot for burning wood.

Wood burning for canners is very hard to regulate heat. If it were a pressure canner even more finite control is required. There is another thread here regarding a triple control burner using Propane gas type. Its probably the best you can get to keep high heat all the way down to a bare simmer. Northern Tool sells these, and it is advisable to use a wind screen around the sides to reduce loss of flames in breezy days outdoors.

It may not be easy for someone inexperienced in the use of a wood burning stove for pressure canning. Not that difficult for bwb. I have been using one for over thirty years to heat my house, baking, cooking and 'pressure canning'. I use a thermometer on the stove top and can keep it within ten degrees easily and closer if I want to stay with it. I said I have a gas stove outdoors for when it is to hot to tend the wood burner in the house so I have no use for a triple burner.

I can on my glass top stove. My water bath canner is so wide it takes all day to heat up, and not flat, so if I water bath can, I just use my presto 23 qt pressure canner as a BWB. It has a bottom designed to fit the burner nicely.

You may find older threads from me complaining about canning on the glass top stove, but my last several sessions have gone really well! I can periodically in the winter because I make and can a lot of stock. I think you just have to know your stove real good, and know where to set the burner, because they are so slow to heat up, you cannot just guess. Now, when I pressure can, I know exactly what spot to turn the knob too for optimum performance, and it seems to work fine.

I do have to admit, that we want a gas stove, so I have the attitude that if the stove breaks, well, good time for a new gas stove! But even with that carefree attitude, I have not broken my stove top, which I am sure is so old it is out of warranty anyway.

Here, no piped in gas on our streets, so its either propane or electric. The next door neighbor has a huge propane tank buried in the ground bewteen our houses and someday it could leak. I pray that I am not here if there is an explosion! He has to fill that big propane 'bomb' about 4 times a year. Now he is upset about the high cost of propane, as his house heat propane too. BIG 9 room house with two people living there. Pressure canning is very fussy about maintaining pressure and heat control. I would still be concerned as you never really know who hot it can get if the wood is wet, dry, or a different type, age, etc. My regular coil type electric stove ahs one big burner thats sinking into the stove. It gets so hot there, the steel struts under the coils also get red hot and bend and sag. I have to take that burner element out and use a raised, heavy duty one for my canner.

That is partly where the experience comes in. When cooking I use seasoned 'stove' wood. It is all basically the same diameter, same age, and same length. I use different species for different heat outputs. I have a large woodshed so wet wood in not a problem. I am not talking about a $250 Franklin stove. If you tried a modern AIRTIGHT wood burning stove you would see how easy it is to control the heat with the wood, air intake and damper. With a good thermometer and experience you can learn to control the heat as easy as you can with your electric eye. I can tell you the exact temperature of my burner surface at anytime while pressure canning. If temp drops a little, open air intake a little, temp rises a little, close air intake a little.

Sounds like a lot of watching needed. I have no way to install a wood stove here, and it would raise house insurance sunstanially. The house has no fireplace either. My aunt had a fireplace on one side in the luving room, and a charcoal grill on the other side in the kitchen. Big bucks.

I believe a lot of watching is the best policy when canning regardless of the heat source. Heating/cooking with wood reduces my electric/natural gas bill. I have solar hot water. In the winter I pay around $50 a month for utilities in a 2,000 sf house. The wood burning stove installation was inspected by my insurance company and it did not increase my homeowners policy. Safe canning.

Not a problem in FL. In Mass even kerosene heaters were outlawed many years ago, so wood burning stoves are still something hard to do in a house that has no provision for one. MY new oil burning furnace is just fine, and cost me only $800 so far to heat this winter. If I was in FL I would worry more about AC costs and electric bills most of the time.

"Only $800 so far to heat this winter" OMG and your winter is not even over yet?
My total electric averages $1,200 for the entire year. I use a Geo-Exchange systems for AC. It was expensive to install but it is very efficient.
I am so far off the glasstop thread. Sorry, Mad About Mickey. I got caught up in conversation.

Mad about Micky?? The mouse? When my oil tank was filled back in mid October, oil prices were more than a $1 higher than they are now. I guess the best place to live as to temperature is Hawaii, or a place where its not overly hot, humid, or cold.