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steve_g

Looking for tallish shade shrub for under a pine

19 years ago

Hi -- I have an area in my yard where i would like to add a decent sized native northwest shrub to gain some privacy. The area is under a large pine, and receives only mild filtered sun... mostly shade. I can't seem to find anything native in the 8-10 foot range that would work in this spot. I would love an evergreen. Something columnar would be excellent.

Any suggestions?

Comments (19)

  • 19 years ago

    Only native that would shoot up into that height range before we are all dead of old age is Pacific wax myrtle. It will grow in some shade but is more open there (native to full sun and sandy soil on outer coast, right behind beach). Also prone to weevils when planted beneath low-branching conifers, resulting in holes chewed out of leaf margins. However, if you are intent on using natives this is a comparatively easily acquired and grown choice that is much planted here.

    Although not native locally coast silktassel is another PNW native with ornamental features that is sold by local outlets. With this item, large (5 gallon) sizes such as you might perhaps like to start out with are not available every year, although I have seen some in recent years.

  • 19 years ago

    Thanks, I guess it's not going to be easy to go native in this spot. Can you suggest a non-native that might do well in this location? I am googling coast silktassel right now.

  • 19 years ago

    Yew, holly or box.

  • 19 years ago

    Camellia. When I moved into this house 16 years ago, there was an old tall pine with an old camellia planted next to it.

    The camellia is the basic, small-flowered type, rose colored. It does very well with little to no summer watering, and is covered in blooms for a month or better starting about the first of February. The only care it needs is to have the old flowers knocked off (by a rake handle up high where I can't reach), and to be pruned a little every couple of years to keep it from overgrowing the path next to it.

    Camellias are hardy here, evergreen, and aside from some mulch (mostly the flower petals and pine cones) and/or a little fertilizer, need no extra care. They come in different color blooms, different heights, and different growth habits, so you should be able to find one that fits your spot. You'd have to give it extra water until it is established, but other than that, little care is needed.

    The only other problem I've had is black 'soot' on the leaves and a few chewed leaves. A couple of ant traps at the base, and a little leaf washing takes care of that problem.

    I don't know why more camellias aren't grown in the PNW. If anyone know of a good local nursery source, I'd love to know where it is.

    Daphne in Tacoma

  • 19 years ago

    Interested in this also. I like the idea of the camellias, I have some rodies, but under the firs and pines I seem to have problems with, I'm guessing weevils also...

    Faith

  • 19 years ago

    Since you asked for natives in your original post, you're most likely aware of the issues with invasive non-natives. I agree with bboys first suggestions, but holly (Ilex aquifolium)is highly invasive in both native and garden areas and should be avoided. He has mentioned this tendency himself in other threads but it's worth repeating.

  • 19 years ago

    I am leaning towards the silk tassel shrub, but a camelia is not a bad idea. I already have one near there but another one might be nice. They do well in part shade and acid soil right? If memory serves me they grow very slow, don't they? I'd like something that would reach at least 6 or 7 feet in the first year or 2.

    thanks for the suggestions. keep 'em coming!

  • 19 years ago

    steve, camellias are available in some pretty generous sizes, so you could conceivably find something with some height already if you go this route. IME, they would prefer a bit more organically rich and moisture retentive soil than many pines are comfortable with. And I have also experienced that Garrya (the silk tassel) is not all that happy in much shade, although very tolerant of lean and relatively dry soils, so if the conifer is limbed up to allow enough sun, this might be a good choice. Another choice for a shade and drought tolerant evergreen shrub that can put on some good size in a relatively short period of time is Elaeagnus. The hybrid x ebbingei and the species E. pungens offer some attractively variegated forms that are particularly striking in a shady, low light situation. And these selections do not present the invasive or weediness issues of other Elaeagnus species.

  • 19 years ago

    How about the native evergreen huckleberry, Vaccinium ovatum? I have some that have grown at least 6 feet under fir and pine. They don't need much sun to flower and set lots of berries. You could plant one and a beautiful camellia too. The hummingbirds love the blossoms, and everyone loves the berries.

  • 19 years ago

    i planted a few evergreen huckleberries in the early fall of last year. i really like them though they haven't grown or bloomed or really done anything in the last 4 months. Suppose that has to do with it being winter.

    How much did yours grow per year? How long until they fruited?

    Thanks for the comments!

  • 19 years ago

    Osmanthus decorus, et al., Evergreen Viburnums, Mahonia aquafolium, et al. , Azara microphylla, Aucuba.....

  • 19 years ago

    Silktassel has less winter damage in shade. As far as being bothered by shade, there used to be a wall of it behind the fence and under the conifers along the south side of the Ballard locks parking lot. A real cave of a location. Maybe quite a bit of it is still there. I've also seen it used as a specimen inside an almost enclosed entryway. And so on.

    Like common camellia, evergreen huckleberry grows at a snail's pace. It will also be turned to confetti by weevils in many locations under or near low-branching conifers or roof overhangs.

  • 19 years ago

    Do weevils also eat salal? What can be done about them.

    All the suggestions have been really great. It's going to be a hard decision.

  • 19 years ago

    I was thinking mahonia too. I see several large patches of firs and western cedars with nice stands of mahonias growing among them. The native type probably won't reach quite the height you desire, but they can get pretty tall and seem right at home under those conditions. A lot of the Asian species and hybrids grow taller than the native types.

    Let us know what you pick, and how it works out.
    Take cre,
    Grant

  • 19 years ago

    Thank you all for your help. I will mull it over and see what is available at the nursery. I was thinking of planting in early March. Is this too early to plant in Seattle?

    Anyway, here is the list i have compiled from your suggestions:

    Coast silktassel
    Pacific wax myrtle
    Yew
    Box
    Holly
    Camellia
    Rodies
    Elaeagnus (E. pungens & x ebbingei)
    Evergreen Huckleberry
    Osmanthus decorus
    Mahonia aquafolium
    Azara microphylla
    Aucuba

  • 19 years ago

    Most of those will not shoot up. You will be waiting decades to see them 10 feet tall. Depending on situation some will effectively never get that big. However, there is a big difference between something and nothing, a shrub that tall may not be required to produce desired effect.

  • 19 years ago

    I am going to keep my eye out for larger species when i go to the nursery. Perhaps I can get jump start by buying a larger shrub to begin with...

    Can you tell me when it is OK to start planting? Does anyone live in Seattle, and if so, when do you start your planting? I want to do some significant planting this year and want to time it well. Advice?

  • 19 years ago

    Fall is best. After that spring. Fully hardy plants can be planted or transplanted all winter, weather conditions permitting. A severe Arctic Front coming in right after small specimens in pots have just been set out could do damage.

  • 19 years ago

    Take a walk around the Washington Park Arboretum for other ideas. Carl English Garden (Ballard Locks) another good place to look, which also has the advantage of being more compact than the Arboretum. Lacks the comprehensive labeling of the Arboretum, however.

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