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blheron

Too late to plant an apple tree?

18 years ago

Always a day late and a dollar short! Our 39th wedding anniversary is this weekend and I was hoping to pick up a new apple tree for the yard. Is it too late to plant this year? I know trees are usually planted during the dormant season, but I missed it.

Also, does anyone have any ideas/suggestions as to why my fruit trees don't produce? I have a full size Golden Delicious Apple, a semi-dwarf pear, a Buckley King Apple Semi-Dwarf, and a grafted tree with 3 apple varieties. They all bloom well, my husband does a regular spray program for disease, but after over 20 years we get no fruit---or very little and it is always deformed and not edible. Gets regular watering, even tried those fertilizer "stakes" one year. Still nothing. When we bought the house 35 years ago the fruit trees that were here were past their prime, but still had fruit. My neighbors all have heavy fruit production. Very frustrating! I'm beginning to think maybe after 20 years it's time to start over!

As long as I'm asking, if you don't mind two more questions? One, is it OK to plant a new tree in the same location as the current one (assuming I remove the old one first :))? I don't have enough room to plant new ones without removing the old. Second, is there an apple variety that does better than others for my area? I live just south of Tacoma, WA. I like Braeburns, don't know if they grow here, and my all time favorite, Gravensteins. I planted the Buckley King because the Gravensteins are so difficult to store.

I'd really appreciate any input. It makes no sense to me why the fruit trees refuse to cooperate---we've been very good to them---really! We have many deciduous and evergreen trees in the yard that do very well. Just under half an acre---minus the house and outbuildings, so lots of open space.

Thanks! Off to go pull some weeds in my native Plant Garden!!

Linda

Comments (10)

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You would be planting out of a pot. Unit cost higher than bare-rooted stock but some will be available and you can proceed with your plants. Main problem with planting now is summer heat and drought being just around the corner. But spring is when most people have the urge and therefore most stock gets planted (fall is the best time to plant hardy stock).

    Mulch after planting and keep well watered all summer.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    ...proceed with your plans.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    You can plant year round here. so long as the ground is neither frozen nor waterlogged. Won't be a problem this time of year I hope! but be aware that you will have to be VERY vigilant with the watering when planting this time of year.

    First question that pops to my mind whenever someone says their fruit tree doesn't have fruit is: do you see bees on the flowers?

    No bees, no pollination; no pollination, no fruit. Nothing you do will make up for lack of pollination - not water, not fertilizer, not nothing. You need bees. That's why farmers are in such a dither over Colony Collapse Syndrome killing off all their bees.

    You can get bee blocks of mason bees for your own trees. I have two blocks of them just for the fun of it as I have no fruit trees here. They seem to like the madrone flowers.

    Also you need cross pollination with apples. That is, you need two different varieties, and not just any ol' two different varieties. Check a pollination chart as I'm not up on all the details, but I do recall that Gravenstein (one of my faves as well) does not cross pollinate other apples. Check the link below for their pollination chart. They'll also have more info on which apples do well here. I think Braeburns are ok. I know Fujis and Granny Smiths do not do well here - too cool in summer for them.

    Misshapen fruit suggests coddling moth, which will require control for insects, not diseases. Apple scab is also a big problem here, and can cause misshapen fruit, but you have to have fruit first! So fix the bee problem first, or make sure it's not the problem.

    Yes you can remove a tree and put another one in its place, so long as the first tree did not die from some soil problem that will also kill the next tree. Get as many of the old tree's roots out first as you can.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Raintree Nursery in Morton, WA

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I've had very good success with my apple trees, there are two that even were loaded after a spring where it rained every day during bloom. I prefer disease-resistant (no spray) apples. The very best IMHO is Liberty, and after that Freedom, my two best producers in bad weather. For an early apple I like William's Pride, one of the PR series. It seems to bloom too early for the codling moths and is rarely affected. Liberty is too hard for them and also doesn't have much damage. Spitzenburg is good despite the occasional damage. A new apple I have called Greensleeves has also been low on damage and is a tasty apple.

    You may just have poor apples for your area.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Above comments have merit - not all apple varieties do well in this climate. Springs are too cool and wet and summers not hot enough. 'Golden Delicious' is a prime example. 'Liberty', 'Spartan' and 'Chehalis' are all recommended and great eating apples. Personally, 'Gravenstein' is my all time favorite and one I would not be without, regardless of its inability to store well. Since it is not a big commercial crop, I have to grow my own :-)

    I've never had issues with pollinators and my apples produce well, perhaps because they are later bearing varieties. I've never put out mason bees but rely only on the resident bumbles and any foraging honeybees. I've also never sprayed.

    Here is a link that might be useful: recommended apple varieties for western Washington

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    First, let me apologize for not responding sooner! I've read and enjoyed all your posts, the holiday weekend just got hectic, and the nice weather had me outside! Have to take advantage when we can around here!

    We seem to have plenty of bees, mostly bumbles and yellow jackets. Not sure the yellow jackets are pollinators, but when things start to bloom---especially clover, lots of bumbles show up!

    My husband does a regular spray for both disease and pests, he's conservative but does spray. I've wondered about the cross-pollination issue. Yet the trees do seem to set fruit most years, it just never develops into good size fruit and usually ends up on the ground before it develops. It's usually misshapen and very small.

    I have seriously wondered if we have an issue with contaminated soil in the entire yard. We have a strange phenomena with ALL our trees. They grow at a strange angle. All seem to lean from just a few degrees to very noticeable (to the S/SE). They all lean in the same direction. My first thought was a sun issue, but even when we bought the home 30+ years ago the trees grew that way and the yard was very open with lots of sun. I remember a pear tree (heavy producer) that was small and very old that had a very distinctive lean and it was in the middle of the yard. If there is a contamination issue I doubt soil testing would give an answer as I suspect it is a deep in the soil issue. Shallow root plants seem to do well. I live in the area between McChord AFB and Fort Lewis where there have been many Superfund sites for many years with water table contamination. But that still doesn't explain why my neighbors have good producing fruit trees!

    I'm beginning to think maybe we just chose poor varieties, though when we planted the Buckley King I thought it was developed for this area. I don't think I have ever seen a fruit on it. reg_pnw7 I went to your site and checked your cross-pollination chart---maybe the fact that it is a Gravenstein hybrid is the problem, though the Golden Delicious flowers profusely and I would think it would pollinate it. BTW, awesome site! I tried to talk hubby into making the trip out to Morton on Sunday, but too busy this weekend. Might be able to make it out next weekend! Lots of good information!

    hemnancy---I like the description of your apples, they meet the criteria I would like---especially the disease resistance. Could you tell me a little about the size/flavor/consistency of your favorites? I'd like a tart, firm, apple like a Braeburn. I used to like Golden Delicious (back in the day when we didn't have a lot of other choices!) but only when they were green. Once they start to turn 'Golden" they are too sweet and mushy.

    gardengal48--same thing, can you tell me about the varieties you list? I agree, if I am going to plant apples I REALLY want a Gravenstein! My all time favorite, but can never find them until it's too late! Short season makes for difficult to find in the stores!

    I remember as a child going with my folks out to old abandoned homesteads and picking apples in the orchards. I find it a bit ironic and confusing that those trees were so heavily laden with apples that the limbs were on the ground from the weight in many cases. I have a nice yard, don't use a lot of chemicals and still nothing! Maybe I'm being TOO nice to them---although there have been years that they were completely ignored, so that's probably not an issue!

    Just find this very frustrating! Seem to have good growing conditions, good care, bees, and pollinators, but still no apples!

    Thanks again for all the input. I REALLY do appreciate it and welcome any more ideas/suggestions! Even if I wait to plant until next year, I'll have a better idea of what might stand a better chance of growing and producing!

    Oh, by the way---off topic, but if you ever consider planting wild geranium---DON'T! Unless you want it in EVERY patch of dirt and crack/crevice in your yard! Talk about invasive! One plant 8 years ago and it is everywhere!!! Took over my Native Plant Garden!

    Thanks again!

    Linda

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I'd put the lean down to a prevailing wind. You can really see it on coastal gardens.

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Liberty- Medium apple, fairly tart, hard, tasty fresh, cooks to wonderful fragrant applesauce (mushes when cooked)even when small and green!!!
    Freedom- Large apple, good fresh or cooked, more sweet than tart
    William's Pride- Large apple, sweet, good cooked
    Spitzenburg- Large apple, complex sweet flavor, dense flesh, good cooked
    Greensleeves- Medium to small apple, dense, complex flavor, newer tree so crop is small, didn't cook them

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    This is Greensleeves

    {{gwi:123500}}

    This is Liberty

    {{gwi:59626}}

  • 18 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Thanks hemnancy! I like the sound of the Liberty. It looks like one I remember from years ago. Do you know if it's an old variety?

    I'm going to look up a few of the others listed also. Seems to me I've heard of Spartan and Chehalis. Probably getting too late to plant now, but if I have to at least I'll know what to get for next Spring!

    As to the leaning trees! Did I say bizarre??? They grow TOWARDS the prevailing winds! That would have been my first thought, too. We don't get a lot of heavy winds, but the ones we do get mostly come from the South. The trees all lean TOWARD the South! Go figure!

    Thanks for all the input, it has REALLY been helpful!

    Linda

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